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Back to the Future

Friday, November 23rd, 2007

Day: 17
Our visit to Mexico City has been dominated by ruins, museums and stories of the great ancient past. Today on our last day we are out to discover the new, hip and trend setting Mexico City. Staying in the historic centre is great for being at the centre of the tourist sites. At night its mostly quiet save for a few happening pedestrian streets and some new live music venues in restored colonial buildings.

First during the day we checked out the Polanco neighbourhood. A beautiful area with 1930’s California style architecture. I really felt like we could be in L.A. at times. Gucci, Cartier, Channel, etc. They were all here along the palm lined streets with BMW’s, Hummers and Jaguars parked out front. Needless to say we couldn’t afford anything and if you know either one of us its far from being our scene. What a great contrast from the rest of the city, Polanco is beyond 1st world.

Late afternoon we moved on to another neighbourhood which sounded more like our thing. Condessa is a fairly trendy bohemian area with tree filled esplanades, side walk cafes and great bars. The whole area has a youthful, laid back vibe. The area is mainly young upper middle class Mexicans. Although I’m not sure I would exactly say the area is gentrified. There has always been a strong arts scene here and it’s quite evident there still is.
We find a side walk cafe and order a cafe americano and an espresso cortado. We people watched and just chilled out on the shady sidewalk. This was the life, I could see myself easily living here. Becoming a travel writer, debating politics and talking travel over my cafe americano. Right, so back to reality. As the sunset we walked across the street to a happening seafood restaurant/bar. Sort of like a tapas place. Great food, good contemporary Mexican music and numerous cerveza Leon. A brilliant end to our last day in Mexico City.

In the morning we catch a bus south to Oaxaca, its time to move on but I could easily spend much more time here. Sure I’ve never seen pollution like this or such a packed metro or such a huge police presence. For all its negatives this is a fabulous city and it is much more livable than I ever thought it would be. I can’t wait to return someday.

People of the Sun

Thursday, November 22nd, 2007

Day 16
The piece of history that impresses me most about Mexico City is that since the 1st century A.D. this metropolis has been one of the most improtant cities in the Ameicas. From Teotihucan, the great Aztec capital, then renamed Mexico by the Spanish and capital of New Spain and it`s current incarnation as capital of Mexico. For so long a sophisticated civilization has inhabited this city.

Today we are heading just north of the city centre to the ruins of Teotihucan, the largest of Mexico`s ancient cities and capital of Mexico`s largest pre-hispanic empire. Once again I am in awe at the sheer size of the city as our bus snakes through traffic to the northeastern suburbs. The bus comes to a stop at a roundabout just outside of gate 3. We pay our 45 peso entry and as soon as we enter the hawkers decend on us. Never have I seen a site where people are allowed to sell right on the site. These are lazy sellers however and a simple no gracias and they move on. Maybe if they were selling something interesting we would look, but so many are selling buddhas! Huh? Wrong people, wrong religion and wrong hemisphere.

Teotihucan is huge, we walk out to the first temple, Templo Quetzacotal. Turning left from here is the start of the “Avenue of the Dead.” The main street of the city. Back in the day this must have been quite a sight, over 2 km long and lined with palaces and temples, all painted red and covered in frescoes. Then about the mid-way point is the pyramid of the sun, the 3rd largest pyramid in the world. At the end of the drag is the smaller yet more beautiful pyramid of the moon, it`s setting, terraces and detail make it very impressive.

Today you can still climb the pyramid of the sun and half way up the pyramid of the moon, we do both and the views are great. However I can`t help but wonder what kind of damage is being done by allowing thousands of people to walk on these daily. Besides that apparently pollution is weakening the structures every year.

Even though the crowds grew and the mid-day sun really took it`s toll on us we enjoyed the ruins. Although both Jordana and I agree the hi-light of the day was about 3km from the main site. We walked to a set of smaller former palaces with some excellent murals. Over 120 walls covered with jaguars, serpents and eagles. We were the only ones wandering this site and it was silent save for the barking of a few dogs and a distant tv from the nearby homes. It was our Indiana Jones moment of the day.

Olmecs, Aztecs and Toltecs…Oh My!

Wednesday, November 21st, 2007
Day 15 Today was a day to learn about the great ancient peoples of Mexico. We plan to visit the Aztec Ruins of Teotihucan tomorrow, so a trip to the anthropology museum was in order. All I really know ... [Continue reading this entry]

The Essential Urban Experience

Tuesday, November 20th, 2007
Day: 14 Peering out over the city from our 6th floor balcony I had a great view of the huge cathedral to my right. Turning left down Ave 5 de Mayo were towering skyscrapers. A perfect representation of Mexico City, ... [Continue reading this entry]

The City

Monday, November 19th, 2007
Day: 13 Entering Mexico city from the northwest suburbs I was already in awe at the size of this megaopolis. Including the surrounding suburbs Mexico City has a population of near 33 million people, making it the largest city in ... [Continue reading this entry]

Lap of Luxury

Sunday, November 18th, 2007
Day: 11 and 12 We awoke in the morning and quickly departed one of the worst rooms we have ever stayed in. We were about to go from a mouldy mess to a beautifully restored colonial hotel. The only room ... [Continue reading this entry]

Moving On

Friday, November 16th, 2007
Day: 10 We awake in our room that has no lock and we quickly decide it´s time to move on. The plan had been to look for another hotel but we decide to just leave the city for Morelia, another ... [Continue reading this entry]

Break and Enter

Thursday, November 15th, 2007
Day: 9 Up at 8am and yet another tasty bakery breakfast and coffee on the rooftop. One last morning gazing out across the Zacatecas cityscape, filled with churches. I wonder how a city of 120,000 can have so many ... [Continue reading this entry]

The Real Mexico?

Wednesday, November 14th, 2007
Day: 8 Today was one of those days traveling I´ll look back on with fond memories. Not because we saw some jaw dropping ruins or had a so called once in a lifetime experience. None of that today, but ... [Continue reading this entry]

Chilling in Zacatecas

Tuesday, November 13th, 2007
Day: 7 We awoke in the charming colonial city of Zacatecas to the sound of church bells and whistles of birds. Well that´s only half true, sounds of people yelling and noisy advertising blasting from atop cars helped get ... [Continue reading this entry]