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On a Holiday

Friday, October 31st, 2008

Day 216

I opened our window and stuck the camera outside for a great shot of table mountain with clear blue skies as far as the eye could see. It was a beautiful day and our first true full day in Africa. We walked downstairs for breakfast which was included with the room. Wow, what a change from Argentina. Cereal, yogurt, juice, coffee, eggs and toast. A full breakfast that we definitely appreciated after over a month of media lunas.

After breakfast we walked down to the Castle of Good Hope. Cape Town has a very european feel and the dutch built castle only added to it. Just down the street we passed city hall and the grand parade. On February 11, 1990 this spot appeared on tv’s worldwide as Nelson Mandela made his first speech after being released from prison from the city hall’s balcony. Back to the castle, we entered the beautiful courtyard which has a cafe. Over the west wall was table mountain. We walked through the different rooms that contained paintings from colonial days and a collection of Chinese and Japanese porcelain. In the other rooms was a very interesting temporary photography exhibit. Entitled “Emergency and Emergence” it contained photos on South African events during apartheid and general photos of life in South Africa. It was an excellent collection and really gave us a good start on learning about the issues this country has and are dealing with.

After a few hours walking around the castle, which is more fort than castle, we found a great burger place. Meat, fish and veggie burgers, but with some amazing ingredients. I had an amazing tuna burger and Jordana a soy burger. After lunch we were pretty wiped out so went back to the guesthouse for a rest.

Cape Town has a beautiful waterfront and we figured we’d check that out at night. We walked about 30 minutes to the water and were amazed at how beautiful and gentrified the waterfront was. Restaurants and bars were everywhere in restored old dock buildings. We found a fantastic spot on a patio at a belgium style restaurant directly next to the water. While seals played in the water, we stared at table mountain in the distance as the sunset was a stunning orange. A perfect night, and our oysters, mussels and beer were also just about perfect. I felt like we were on a holiday from our travels.

As night fell we hopped in a taxi back to Long St and found a bar for a few drinks. It was interesting to watch the mainly white South African crown pour into the bar. We could have been anywhere in Europe or at home for that matter. The one thing that was exotic about this place was the price of a pint. A pint of the local brew Castle is $1.20 CAD is about 5 times less than we would pay back in Toronto. No wonder they drink so much here! We toasted the end to a easy day of sightseeing while we watched the Liverpool/Tottenham match on tv. I had read how Cape Town and all of the western cape would be different than the rest of South Africa. I didn’t expect it to be this different, well at least I was getting the impression that as a tourist we were getting a very white or upper class view of South Africa so far.

Into Africa

Thursday, October 30th, 2008

Day 215

We spent our last morning relaxing at the apartment before our flight. We watched some cheesy daytime movies and Jordana made fried rice before the lady came by to pick up the keys for the apartment. We walked down the street to a taxi stand and waited for our ride to Ezeiza Airport.

Sitting there watching traffic go by I couldn’t believe we were leaving South America. We’ve been travelling 7 months from Toronto through Mexico, Central America and finally South America. Its been an eventful year to say the least. How can life be so great yet so confusing and awful in such a short time?

Finally our driver appeared and we climbed in for the 35km drive to the airport. We sat in B.A.’s traffic as a Boca Junior match was been broadcast on the radio. When they scored we heard several cheers from other cars and from bars along the street. Eventually we reached the highway and blasted along at 130 km/ph. We checked in at the Malaysian Airways desk and went and sat in a restaurant. I had one more Quillmes beer as we looked over the now very familiar Argentinian menu. While food was of good quality in Argentina the menus were all the same. Funny thing was we worried about not eating meat here but the real challenge is variety. Here is an example of how each menu went. At least 5 kinds of ham sandwiches, all with the crust cut off and on plain thin white bread. Meat, steak and lamb of course. Pizza and pasta, but nothing to exciting. Pasta has always had a choice of only 3 sauces, tomato, cream or rose. That my friends is pretty much the menu at 75% of Argentinian restaurants. Yes Buenos Aires was a bit more varied but I do not exaggerate about the rest of the country. Oh and breakfast? Well just read my other entries on Argentina I’ve mentioned it several times. The good? Wine is good and cheap. We drank wine with dinner almost all the time, it was cheaper than water.

So as we sat there and talked about our time in Latin America ill miss certain things and Argentina has been maybe the highlight of the trip. Its natural beauty is incredible and we saw things here that we have never seen anywhere in the world before. That said the prospect of Africa has us both excited to get on this plane. Finally our boarding began and we filed onto the large 747. OK good start, in seat tv’s with on demand movies and shows. Oh and they even have games! I settled in and tee’d off on the first hole of the golf game. It was going to be a quick 8 hours.

Jordana and I peered out the window and then looked at each other with giddy smiles. The pilot had just announced we were descending to Cape Town. We were in Africa. This is actually our third time on the continent, however previously we’ve only been to Egypt and Morocco. This was going to be a very different Africa. Low cloud prevented us from seeing much of the city as we landed. Quickly we were off the plane and into customs. With no line and several booths open we moved through fast and just minutes later found our bags on the carousel. Cape Town Airport is modern and being expanded in time for the 2010 World Cup that will be held in South Africa.

We exited into the main hall of the airport and went looking for a bookstore. We didn’t have any info on South Africa, no guidebook, no map and no idea where to stay. I easily found a Roughguide South Africa published in July 2008 for only $25. Good start. We walked to tourist info and grabbed a city map and found a decent sounding place to stay in the guidebook. Next we walked over to a taxi stand and for 170 South African Rand ($17) we had a transfer to St. Pauls B & B in the centre of Cape Town.

We left the airport and quickly were on a highway into the city. The overcast conditions prevented a good view of the mountains around the city but they still looked spectacular. On the left side of us was a large shanty town and just down on the right a sign advertising luxury homes fenced in with security. We entered the centre of Cape Town and pulled up to our guesthouse. The centre was clean and beautiful, not what you thought eh? Cape Town is very european looking and feeling.

We walked up to the front door and hoped they had a room. A friendly lady let us in and explained they did have a room and that the B & B was actually run by the church next door, St. Pauls. The guesthouse was 150 years old and was originally the first maternity hospital in all of Africa. Pretty cool stuff. She led us up stair and opened the door to a huge, beautiful room with 15 foot ceilings and huge windows. Out the windows an amazing view of table mountain. “Perfect, we’ll take it!” We both said. What an easy and great start to Africa. I expect things will eventually get rougher but this was fantastic. We both collapsed in bed and slept till 3pm.

When we finally awoke we showered and went for some fabulous south Indian food. Ahhh it felt good to have some spice and flavour. We strolled Long St., Cape Town’s party street. With its beautiful dutch colonial style buildings, behind us the 1100 metre table mountain loomed over the city. Cape Town was as beautiful as advertised. We turned in early and read up on Cape Town and South Africa. The next few months promise to be our biggest adventure yet.

I Think I’m Turning Japanese

Tuesday, October 28th, 2008
Day 213 These are the sort of days that one needs while travelling, easy and relaxing however they don't exactly make for enthralling blog entires. Jordana and I walked to the other end of Palermo to meet Eli and Bronwen ... [Continue reading this entry]

Planning the Next Move

Monday, October 27th, 2008
Day 212 After the heat and excitement of yesterday we decided to sleep in and take it easy for a day. No sights, just walk around the 'hood and also buy our flight for our next move. Yep our ... [Continue reading this entry]

Melting in the Chocolate Box

Sunday, October 26th, 2008
Day 211 They say that Argentines are amongst the most passionate people and that there is no better place to experience that passion than in tango or football. Well since I'm not going anywhere near the tango floor I'll have ... [Continue reading this entry]

The Colours of Passion

Saturday, October 25th, 2008
Day 211 Buenos Aires is a huge city, over 13 million people and its a vast city with some very district neighbourhoods across is cityscape. We were staying in Palermo Viejo, in the north. A funky, somewhat bohemian 'hood ... [Continue reading this entry]

Don’t Cry For Me, It’s Fanatic Hour!

Friday, October 24th, 2008
Day 210 We waited on the steps of MALBA (Museo de Arte Latinoamericano Buenos Aires) for Eli and Bronwen. They had arrived in Puerto Madryn and also found an apartment in the city. It was a beautiful warm sunny ... [Continue reading this entry]

Without a Trace

Thursday, October 23rd, 2008
Day 209 Fried eggs, homefries, toast and orange juice. Making our own breakfast in our own kitchen was a very nice luxury. Eating breakfast while in my boxers and a t-shirt made it even better, this apartment thing was ... [Continue reading this entry]

Moving Day

Wednesday, October 22nd, 2008
Day 208 We woke up today in our small double room, showered in the small, somewhat dirty share bathrooms and set out to get $230 U.S. for the apartment. We had to pay cash for the week rental. So ... [Continue reading this entry]

Super Cama to B.A.

Tuesday, October 21st, 2008
Day 207 What can I say about a bus that has seats that fold into beds, its damn comfortable. It almost felt like we had our own compartment on a train. Actually it felt more like a train than ... [Continue reading this entry]