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Lima

Saturday, August 8th, 2009

My Uncle arrived at my hostel the next morning, and after a brief lunch and walk around Barranco we caught a bus into Central Lima to see the main sights here.  The bus ride to the centre took about an hour and was interesting, on an old US school bus colourfully painted.  The people in this city do drive like complete maniacs and use their horns very liberally.  When we got the the centre, we missed the initial place to get off, (there are no “bus stops”) and ended up on the bridge over the river.  The other side of the river looks like a very different place..

across the highway

Central Lima is busy and pretty crowded, like most large cities.  It has a number of old churches and other various buildings.  The main square, plaza de armas is nice with the cathedral, govt palace and city hall surrounding it.

plaza de armas

plaza de armas

govt palace

cathedral

Next we stumbled across the monastery of san francisco, which has some catacombs underneath.  It’s a nicely built monastery, the library in it has a large collection of historic books.  The large one on display had some original medieval music displayed, cool stuff.  The catacombs were what catacombs are, crypts full of bones, 5 meters deep apparently.  Some arranged by the caretakers interestingly…

monastary de san francisco

monastary de san francisco

catacombs de san francisco

After wandering through some more of the centre, going by most of the buildings of note some very busy pedestrian streets and the other large square, plaza san martín the light was starting to fade so we got a bus back to Barranco.

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plaza san martin

For dinner in Barranco we ended up at the same restaurant I’d eaten at the night before, this time with fish in mind.  Cebiche is a local specialty which is raw fish, served with corn, sweet potato, onions, lime juice and some chili.  We had that as an appetizer, delicious.  Fish for the main dish in some sauce, I have no idea what it was but the fish and sauce were both good.

cebiche

Considering all I’d heard about Lima before I arrived from other travelers was to leave as soon as possible I’ve been very pleasantly surprised that there is actually something to see here and some nice areas.  It’s not the best of cities, but the central district has some very worthwhile sights and I’ve had some great food, staying in a laid back area full of nice buildings and good atmosphere.

The next day we had to change hostels since the one in Barranco was full, moving to one in the Miraflores district, in the heart of touristy mayhem.  The hostel was nice, but the area was full of gaudy shameless international chain restaurants, people trying to get you eat at their place/buy something and not much else.  Only here for 1 night though since we’re catching a bus to Nazca tomorrow. We walked around, trying to get away from all the tacky stuff, wandered to the top of the cliffs and watched a load of people surfing and parasailing from there.  Not much else to see though as the district seems to be either hotels and restaurants/bars or modern apartment buildings.  Made me very glad with my initial choice of hostels in neighboring Barranco and also eager to get on a bus to somewhere else. At night it was even worse, with people everywhere pouring in and out of the places with large neon signs everywhere.

last day in Chile, a night at the airport and on to Peru

Wednesday, August 5th, 2009

My flight to Lima was at 6:55am Wednesday morning.  (only flight available to me with this ticket) You can’t get a bus to the airport until 6:00am, so I had to choose between paying a lot of money for a taxi, and booking another night at the hostel, or, taking the last bus the night before for $4 and spending 7 hours overnight at the airport.  The latter is what I went with, fun stuff.

Before any of that happened, I had the entire day to kill in Santiago so I took the metro to the far side of town, to what were supposed to be interesting historic barrios.  I did not find them interesting, instead found the area I was walking around in to be becoming increasingly dodgy and abandoned the walk, heading back to the city centre. 

barrio brasil

I had a churrassco for lunch, wandered around the pedestrian areas for a while and stopped in at one of the “cafe con piernas”, had a coffee and headed back towards the hostel to kill the rest of the night.  I had two of by far the largest empanadas I’ve seen for dinner and then rolled myself down to the station.

cafe con piernas

By the time I had boarded the airplane around 6:15am, I was very tired, hardly sleeping in the airport.  The flight proved a great place to catch up on some of the lost sleep, nearly 4 hours long, but not before watching the stunning scenery straight after take off.  Flying North parallel to the andes with clouds in the valleys, mountains poking out of them and then watching the sun rise over those mountains was nothing short of spectacular.  Then I fell asleep.

andes at sunrise from the plane

andes at sunrise from the plane

Arrival to Peru was straightforward, I had the usual 2 forms to fill out and the additional currently popular health form because of swine flu.  I am convinced no one ever sees these and they go straight in the bin, waste of paper.  Passport with a fresh new stamp in it I met my driver from the hostel at the airport and we headed off through the, as he called it, the “loco lima drivers”.  Amazingly, I understood a fair amount of what he was saying in spanish and could carry out a decent conversation with him.  Unlike in Chile, here people don’t talk at the speed of light.

The weather in Lima was grey, bleak, on and off drizzle which is the typical winter scene apparently.  At least it’s still 20 degrees in the day.  After dropping my stuff at the hostel I ran out for some lunch and got my bearings in the area.  I’m staying in the Barranco district of Lima and after all the negative comments I’ve heard about Lima I was very pleasantly surprised by this area at least.  Very near the ocean, full of old, interesting buildings and the main plaza of the district is one block from my hostel full of bars, restaurants and cafes.

la playa

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After spending the afternoon exploring the district and a power nap I went for dinner, and had some delicious Peruvian food.  I don’t remember the name, but it was rice, layered with mince in a sauce with fried plátano.  Brilliant stuff.  The dish cost $4 as well, bueno.  So after just one day in Peru I’m liking it already, just have to pay a lot more attention when crossing the road than in Chilé! 

night view

parque central at night

iglesia ermita at night

Tomorrow my Uncle flies in and we will meet up and he’ll be traveling with me for my last 5 weeks outside the US, in Peru and Colombia.  Yes I only have 5 weeks until I fly to Miami, time had really started going fast recently…