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Great Barrier reef and weather

Friday, May 8th, 2009

I arrived in the tiny settlements of Agnes Waters and 1770 during a downpour of rain, thankfully my hostel was across the road from the bus stop, I still got soaked however. My only reason for stopping here was to take my first day trip out to the great barrier reef, unfortunately there were high winds out at sea so the boats weren’t running any trips the day I was supposed to go, or the next day. I decided to wait the 2 extra days instead of canceling. The only problem with that is these towns are tiny, just one small supermarket, a couple restaurants, another shop and some tourist offices in addition to the hostels and resorts here. Nothing to go do except chill on the beach or at the hostel. Fortunately the hostel was a good one, and they put on good movies in the lounge at night, something to keep me from going insane. They also had a French chef backpacker staying there cooking $5 meals every night!

When I finally got to go out to the reef the ocean was still not calm, just not rough like the previous days, lets just say after the 2 1/2 hours it required to get to the reef no one on the boat was feeling too good except possibly the crew. The site we went to was just off this coral island, not a bad site.

great barrier reef

great barrier reef

The reef, or the bit I snorkeled on anyway, looked pretty similar to the Ningaloo reef out in WA I snorkeled the other week, some more colourful corals and some different fish but overall similar. (They both look like reefs!) I saw a couple sea turtles from the boat surface for air but none while I was in the water, and no sharks this time. I did find nemo, and a bunch of his friends though. Cool stuff. I don’t have underwater pictures since this boat didn’t have a photographer with us. Reefs are awesome, just laying there floating in the water and looking at stuff, never really gets boring, some new school of fish will appear or you spot cool different coral!

great barrier reef

The boat ride back was slightly faster then the way out, but with a higher swell. Meaning more holding on and more getting wet. The weather wasn’t particularly sunny or warm either so by the time we got back to shore, around sunset, everyone was pretty cold and wet. I had just enough time once I got back to the hostel to have a shower and get the hostel dinner before I had to catch my night bus. The bus ride was 9 hours, I arrived at Airlie beach at 6:30 in the morning and had the whole day there before my next night bus that night, onto Cairns, the result of me staying an extra night in Agnes Waters waiting to go to the reef. It rained on and off the whole day, making me glad I didn’t book a Whitsundays sailing trip, it would’ve been miserable. As it was I just had a day to kill trying to stay dry, but firmly on dry land.

Airlie beach
Perfect day for a island sailing adventure eh?

I only have 8 days left in Australia now and the good weather seems to have deserted me. Since I left Noosa it has been unpredictable and fast changing, I’m hoping it sorts itself out for some nice warm sunny days once I’m in Cairns and the rainforest, I’m firmly in the tropics now and todays British weather is not very tropical! I’ve got 3 major stops left here before I go to South Africa, how time flies!

Noosa and Fraser Island

Friday, May 8th, 2009

I saw the sunrise on my way to the bus station leaving Brisbane, I’ve been seeing an awful lot of those lately. The bus was to Noosa, where the Noosa river comes to the ocean, with the everglades along the river. It’s also surrounded by great beaches and great coastline. I just had one day here, hence the early bus, and the weather was perfect for it. Walking through the national park here reminded me of the Abel Tasman park in NZ somewhat, great beaches, secluded coves, not many people around, hiking through natural bush…

National park

Devils Kitchen

The next morning I left Noosa and got on another bus for 5 hours, up to Hervey Bay, springboard for my Fraser Island trip. The trip I booked for Fraser Island was for a guided tour of 2 days, 1 night on the island. I was picked up from my hostel at 7:00 (after seeing another sunrise, I’m almost used to this now) and instead of taking the ferry from Hervey Bay to Fraser Island we drove an hour and a half South to Rainbow Beach to pickup more people and took the ferry to the other end of the island from there. This wasn’t ideal because we weren’t on the island until around 9:30, on a 2 day schedule time is short and I would’ve probably booked a different tour that actually took the ferry in Hervey Bay if I would have realized this.

The reason I booked with the company I did, was because they promised groups of 14 people maximum (instead of the 40 many companies say), and in reality our group only had 7 people in it. The weather was cloudy and wet when we arrived on the island, where that came from I have no idea, but it cleared off somewhat as the day went on. There are no real roads on Fraser Island, just tracks through the sand (the island is the largest sand island on earth). So to get up and down the island you drive on the beaches and to get across you drive these sand tracks through the bush and sub tropical rainforest. We walked through some of this rain forest, more interesting than the temperate stuff I’ve been seeing for a while now but it’s still not real tropical rainforest, I have to wait another week for that…

You can’t swim in the ocean around Fraser because it’s a breeding ground for tiger sharks, for swimming options you have to head inland on the island to the lakes. The lakes are all freshwater, some fed by the water table underneath the island and some fed by rainfall. The one we stopped at, Lake Makenzie, is fed by rainfall, surrounded by superfine white sand and has vivid blue colours in it. Not too cold either, pretty nice…

Lake Mckenzie

The 2nd day on the island we saw the Indian head lookout, some different coloured sand formations and many freshwater streams running into the sea. The weather had cleared off overnight and was a warm sunny day, making everything look much nicer.

view from indian head

The downside of being able to drive up and down the beach is, everyone is driving up and down the beach. This isn’t even peak season here yet either. There’s just something about seeing tyre tracks all over the beach with jeeps coming and going that takes away from the island experience, there’s also a fair few tour groups and due to either tide levels or poor planning (or the tour drivers want to stand around and talk to each other, my bet).

view from indian head

I wont be recommending the company I went with to anyone, mainly because I wasn’t too thrilled with the guide and the departure, although I don’t think, from what I saw of them, the other tour companies would’ve been much better. The best way to see this island would be in your own 4×4 (not crammed in with 10 other people like the backpacker “self drive tours”), but for those of us with no experience driving in such conditions the options aren’t that many. The island’s cool, a lot bigger than I though it was though. An extra day would’ve been ideal to see more of the lakes and sand dunes, and some magical powers to make the bus loads of people vanish into the air.

me at indian head

Next stop, Great Barrier Reef!