EJ's Travels

A few weeks back the 11th annual McMurdo Marathon took place. Even crazier is that for a few participants, it was their first marathon ever! Lucky for everyone the conditions the day of the race were perfect. However, given the extreme possibilities, I have great respect for those who were either bold or naive enough to commit themselves to such a feat. I was unaware that skiers were allowed to participate or I might have dared join the ranks. Instead I woke to wish the racers well and then skied out to Willy Field at my leisure to cheer them on along the way. My friend, Dan, who told me before the race that he was going to resist running out front for fear of bonking, was the third person to reach the break station at Willy, falling behind two racers on skis! He managed to stay strong, finishing first on foot. It was a victorious day for all who participated. Everyone who started the race, finished. All with a smile.

The starting line at Pegasus airfield

Dan with an early lead

Frosty Alan!

Eric’s 1st marathon

The following weekend the Americans met the Kiwis on the rugby field. Each year the Americans have high hopes of being the first team to defeat the Kiwis at their native sport. The men and women of the McMurdo team seemed particularly driven and determined this year.

I walked with a few of my girlfriends to the rugby field where we joined an anxious crowd wrapped in layers of warm clothing. The opposing teams took their places across from one another on the field. I noticed one of the Kiwis on the front line, Lucas, begin to grunt and stick his tongue out and roll his eyes back while imitating a bull before charging a flag. Soon the rest of the team joined him in the traditional Maori war dance known as the huka. It was impressive and intimidating, not to mention mesmerizing. After a few minutes of taking it all in, the American team joined arms in a straight line and began marching forward slowly in what appeared to be an attempt to signal a welcome to their challenge.

The Americans, god bless ’em, put up a worthy fight. The Kiwis only scored once and although it was ruled incomplete the Americans came excitingly close to tying the game. Cheering from the sidelines I was sincerely impressed with the spirit our team displayed. Rugby is a brute game, much more so than American football with protective gear. But this didn’t stop even the smallest of players from diving into the pack. They all played their little hearts out. The Kiwis admitted this was the toughest competition they have had in years. Granted, we had been practicing all season for this game while the Kiwis didn’t have a single organized practice! However, just learning the rules of the game takes months and remains a mystery to many, including a few of those that were out there defending our honor.

The American team in transit to the rugby field!

The Maori huka dance

The Kiwi fans

The American fans

Me & Amanda trying to stay warm

Ball at their feet

Take down

Almost!

Go Black!

Both teams after the game

see more of my photos at: http://ej.smugmug.com

Occassionally seemingly important people decide they want to visit Antarctica as well. This year a group of Senators and Members of the House of Representatives graced us with their presence. Senators John McCain, Susan Collins and John Sununu along with 10 representatives comprised the lucky group.

Prior to their arrival the waste bins were removed from outside the buildings (one of the NSF representatives finds them distasteful) and each one of us townies was required to spend a couple of hours “daisy picking,” more commonly referred to as picking up trash. How Orwellian is that? Once off the plane the DV’s, as they are commonly referred to, receive special transport in spotless and relatively comfortable vehicles, stay in housing that separates them from the working class, take day trips to treasured locations such as the South Pole and the Dry Valleys, and generally speaking get treated like royalty.

I suppose this wouldn’t annoy me so if these *distinguished visitors* paid their own way like any other tourist. Instead, these royal folk get one hell of a boondoggle on our tax dollar. This fact is particularly bothersome to me because these guests are actually elected to represent *we the people* and to protect our rights as citizens. Yet here they are on a free ride to Antarctica visiting a base where taxation without representation exists. That’s right, labor laws are NOT enforced here. And I’ll never understand why *we the people* insist on refusing to allow our elected officials to experience this place (or any other for that matter) as the common folk – whom they represent – do. But, then, there is an awful lot I don’t get.

Of course with my attitude it goes without saying that I would be the one “lucky” enough to transport these DV’s from their plane at Pegasus airfield back to town. On the way out I had the company of 3 of the NSF Polar Research staff members. As we arrived at the airfield and sat waiting for our cue to approach the plane, one of the NSF members said to me,

“I’m not sure how to say this, but, do you know what your hat says, and do you want to be wearing that today?”

Earlier that morning I had dressed for just another day in Shuttles, but little did I know I was going to be representing the town of McMurdo as the DV’s rolled off the plane. Of course I knew what my hat said… FUKENFREEZIN ANTARCTICA. And, yes, it is what I wanted to be wearing. All the more so now that I was being more or less told that I didn’t. Yes, still stubborn and defiant at 32. I explained that as distasteful as my hat might be, my hair underneath would be even more so. He then suggested that I turn my hat inside out.

“It’s up to you,” he explained, “I just wanted you to be aware.”

Right. I sat stewing over this little interaction as I drove to the plane arguing in my head as to what I should do when my friend, Emily, a reporter with the Antarctic Sun who was also on board, offered for me to wear her hat. I didn’t feel like I could decline the offer under the circumstances. So, off came the hat. I’m certain even US Senators and Members of the House have a sense of humor. In fact I bet a few of them would have even inquired as to how to get their hands on a hat like mine. Well, at least the one who, after a few beers with his constituents, thought it would be funny to depants and moon his adoring fans.

McCain boards the Airporter as I stand outside and take roll call before letting each one board.

Christmas in Antarctica. A long way from the North Pole, not so far from the South. Although on opposite ends of the globe, I imagine Santa & his helpers would feel right at home in these parts.

What could possibly look and feel more like Christmas? My first year at university in California after 17 years in North Dakota I remember thinking that Christmas just isn’t Christmas without freezing temperatures and snow on the ground. Turns out that despite spending Christmas on the coldest and whitest place on earth, closer to the truth is that Christmas just isn’t Christmas if I’m not spending it at home with family. Nevertheless, I enjoyed the festivities here even if the holiday was a bit lost on me.

My family back home in Minnesota adorned in various Antarctica paraphernalia
brother-in-law, paul; brother, nathan; sister, lisa; ma, sandra; pa, john; niece, ellie & nephew, isaac

A town Christmas party was held in the heavy shop to kick off the holiday weekend. Decorations were hung, a choir sang Christmas carols, Santa was available for pictures, eggnog was served and dancing was underway ‘til the wee hours. The following evening I was invited to Scott Base for the kiwi Christmas Eve dinner with my friend, Tristan. Dinner was spectacular and the closest thing to Christmas I experienced here. The forty-something of us sat and dined together family style. Our places at the table were marked by cookies frosted with our names (it’s the little things). Preparing food for 40 versus 1000+ makes a notable difference. The dessert table could have won awards based on aesthetics alone. Afterwards we all helped clean and do dishes and then enjoyed some post dinner conversation and drinks. I made the just under 2 mile walk home somewhere around 1:30am. As I was walking along enjoying the quiet of the *night* I saw a trail of red marching up Ob Hill. The next day I came to find out it was my roommate, Jane, and other friends still dressed in their Santa & elf costumes. I kind of wish I had joined the merry bunch when I spotted them.

Christmas Day found me standing atop Castle Rock once again with friends Eric and Kevin. I would venture to guess that not many can say they spent Christmas Day in the same spot, including those who are actually here in Antarctica. Afterwards I got tidied up and enjoyed another holiday meal with the McMurdo crowd. A quiet night in the company of friends followed.

Me & Eric on Castle Rock Christmas Day

Ethan, Erin & Ben at Christmas Dinner

Christmas Dinner at McMurdo…

My shuttles team celebrated the holiday with a party at Hut 10. It is a hut used to house distinguished visitors, but in the off time it can be reserved for parties. Here is most of the gang outside on the deck.

Back row: Michael, Karen, Me, Amanda, Katherine, Helena, Sue & Hal
Front row: Sam, Kris, Cindy, Gloria, Evelyn & Sharon

New Year’s Eve there was a host of parties. I think I managed to hit all of them but one. The most fun of which was the milvan party. Milvans are large shipping/storage containers and the cargo yard is full of them, some of them empty. The milvan that hosted the party was in fact empty and hooked up to a generator so that lights could be hung and music played. I actually never made it inside the milvan. It was such a beautiful night that much of the action took place just outside of it.

Me, Eric & Helena post the midnight hour

Top to bottom (L-R): Burt, Jesse, Me, Sean, Emily, Carrie & Isaac

New Year’s Day was spent relaxing and listening to the sounds of home-grown bands playing outside all day at Icestock.

Icestock stage

Icestock crowd (notice the milvans lining either side of the audience)

2006 began in Antarctica. Can’t begin to imagine where it will end. The year ahead is destined to be filled with adventure and discovery. I look at the journey ahead with great excitement and wish the same for all of you.

Happy New Year!

see more of my photos at: http://ej.smugmug.com

Sandwiched between Christmas and New Year’s I managed to have five days off in a row due in part to two days spent at Happy Camper. Happy Camper is another name for Snow Survival School. Survival? It was the closest thing to a vacation I’ve had here yet.

School takes place out on the sea ice just a few miles from base. Twenty of us piled into haglunds and piston bullies arriving at Snow Mound City where our Field Safety Training Program instructors, Trevor and CeCe, spent the next 24 hours teaching us how to survive this harsh continent if we happen to find ourselves stranded outdoors with a multitude of shovels, saws, camp stoves, dehydrated food, radios and tents. Unlikely. The idea is that if we do get stranded we would of course have a survival bag with us that contains the necessary items to… survive. All of the tracked vehicles carry survival bags. However, none of our shuttle vehicles do. Nor do any of us carry one when we head out to recreate. Really this training applies more to the grantees that are headed out in the field, but for us town folks, it’s a treasured boondoggle.

We began by learning how to recognize and avoid hypothermia and frostbite. Unfortunately I am all too familiar with both. We practiced lighting camp stoves, cutting ice blocks to build snow walls, setting up scott tents as well as standard mountaineering tents, using high frequency (HF) & very high frequency (VHF) radios, and my favorite of all, building a quinzee. A quinzee is a snow shelter akin to an igloo. We constructed it by piling 10 of our survival bags on the ground and then shoveling snow a couple feet thick all around them and then waiting a few hours before digging an entrance into the shelter and a back door to excavate the bags. I would have never believed the snow would hold, but much to my surprise and delight, it did. I was one of four lucky individuals who spent the night inside the quinzee. It was honestly the best night of sleep I have had here yet.

It was more or less a car camping experience on the Antarctic sea ice. I’m not sure that I feel better prepared to survive a night out in the elements, but afterwards I felt better prepared to appreciate the beauty of this place and the unique opportunity I have to be here once again. With so little opportunity to actually leave base and explore Antarctica as all of us here dreamt of doing before arriving, it is easy to become a bit disenchanted with the whole experience. But as I sat alone atop a snow wall gazing out at the light changing across the Antarctic night sky, I was reminded how many folks would give just about anything to be here, including myself six months ago.

Me & Cindy en route to Snow Mound City

The beginning of the quinzee

Packing the snow of the quinzee

Johannes & Jeff cutting blocks of snow for the snow wall

Snow wall and Scott tent

Buckethead training… this was to simulate what it would be like in Condition 1 weather… we had to find a lost teammate

Talk around camp

Me & Cindy inside the quinzee

Jeff lighting the Menorah before bedtime

see more of my photos at: http://ej.smugmug.com

Of all the things I imagined myself doing during my stay in Antarctica, making my debut belly-dancing on stage was most certainly not one of them. But, alas, life on the ice is chalk full of surprises. Every year the women of McMurdo Station organize and are invited to participate in the women’s soiree, a variety show and fundraiser. A pre-event wine social started the evening at which time raffle tickets were sold for more than $1800 worth of donated goods. This year’s raffle raised $3200 for the Breast Cancer Support Services of Caterbury in New Zealand. Performances included three belly-dancing acts, tap-dancing, a bassoon solo, guitar playing and singing, storytelling, poetry and a documentary about ice fishing here in Antarctica. Although some of the old school townies avoid the soiree claiming it is a bit painful, a far greater number of both old and new community members squeeze into the galley (standing room only) to support their friends and colleagues. Those that do show are incredibly receptive and supportive. We were either stunning on stage or incredibly entertaining. As nervous as I was before going on, I have to admit it was great fun thanks to the amazing women I was dancing with and our adoring fans. Here we are in costume and a whole lot of make-up.

Me, Helena & Amanda before the show

Back row: Me, Melissa, Helena, Karen & Allison
Front row: Kat, Becky, Wendy, Sam, Deb & Tami

Closing shot!

see more of my photos at: http://ej.smugmug.com

Thanksgiving has already come and gone and Christmas is but a little over two weeks away. Time, as it is wont to do, is passing quickly. In fact, today marks the two month anniversary of my arrival here. I have approximately two and a half to go. Life here has taken on a rhythm of sorts and most days I actually feel rested despite the long hours. Although I occasionally still feel torn between the fear of missing out and the need to recharge my batteries, I seem to have found a balance of sorts. I continue to enjoy my surroundings as much as I am allowed and have traded in late nights with the partying crowd (of course I haven’t given these up altogether) for more mellow nights with a friend or two, perhaps even to myself. I have grown tired of the “how many years you been coming down?” and “will you be back next year?” questions that begin so many conversations still. I want to know about people’s lives off and before and even in between the ice. There are endless stories waiting to be told. On a lucky day, I get to hear a few of them.

Recent polls still have me as one of the few I know who isn’t at least considering returning to McMurdo. Curious people’s desire to return year after year. Or maybe not so curious. It seems to me the very idea would appeal to those who…

a) come here to do their work (whether scientists, hairdressers, carpenters, chefs, electricians, IT folk, full-time Raytheon employees and the like)

b) come here because they aren’t sure what work they want to do (so why the heck not?)

c) see this as a ticket to travel and haven’t discovered an alternate plan that allows them to save so much money so quickly (not that we make big bucks, but with no expenses and a free flight half way around the world, it works)

d) get attached to the people here and the sense of community that this small *town* provides

I don’t necessarily fall into any of these categories, although I can certainly appreciate the last. As far as a) and b) go, my work is not here, although thankfully I have been able to do some bodywork on the side. I have four Structural Integration clients going currently and give the occasional massage as well. The opportunity to practice here has been my saving grace. Five months here without the ability to do so might have been a bit more than I could have endured. While in Boulder I was in such a rich learning environment. Coming here has felt in some ways like being led astray, at least professionally. Granted, as long as I am practicing, I am learning. It is just that I have so little energy left for it after a 60 hour work week. The next leg of my adventure will hopefully provide learning opportunities in this respect so I patiently (most days) await them. In respect to c), I have thankfully been able to budget and save money to travel abroad while doing the work I love most.

And so while many of the people I have befriended are dreaming about their second season in McMurdo, my thoughts carry me far from here. Knowing this will most likely be my only visit, I am truly appreciating this opportunity and this place, as well these people.

see more of my photos at: http://ej.smugmug.com

Thanksgiving was celebrated here on Saturday, November 26th. Almost the entire station had the day off and 3 dinners were served to accomodate the community. The kitchen crew cooked us up a feast. To feed the station population, the dining hall staff prepared, among other things, 500 kilograms of turkey, 140 kilograms of tenderloin, 230 kilograms of mashed potatoes and 180 kilograms of shrimp cocktail. For dessert, they provided 60 pumpkin pies (with 24 liters of real whipped cream), 40 pecan pies, 40 apple pies, 1,000 pieces of pumpkin cheesecake and another thousand pieces of chocolate cake.

It was all very, very tasty.

I have so much to be thankful for. Here are just a few of the many things…

41 degree days in Antarctica:

Snow days with friends:

Crazy Kiwis:

Dance parties in Antarcitca:

Good girlfriends (near & far):

And boyfriends (same goes):

The kid in all of us:

Holiday strolls:

Thanksgiving dinner with friends I adore:

see more of my photos at: http://ej.smugmug.com

3 days, 3 Antarctic dreams come true.

ONE

After a couple weeks of dashed hopes due to inclement weather and/or poor health, the sun god smiled upon me and my comrades as we set off for the much anticipated Castle Rock. The crew included Tim (my favorite DA (dining attendant) & Thursday playmate), Richard (the funniest DA I know), Ben (the spunkiest DA south of… well, practically everything), Jeff (the tallest DA & best DJ in town) and Christina (baker extraordinaire). It was a magical day of sapphire skies atop endless seas of white. The flags marking our path hung lifeless beside us and between fits of laughter and excited chatter the only sound was that of crunching snow beneath our feet. The 9.3 mile hike is a relatively easy one, but the remote location suggests one must have hiked for days to reach it, seemingly light years from MacTown.

Castle Rock was larger than I expected as it came into view. A short scramble up the 200ft rock rewarded us with views of the land and sea surrounding Ross Island, one indistinguishable from the other. For the life of me I can’t seem to get a handle on where McMurdo lies geographically. Looking at a map it makes perfect sense, but every time I attempt to get my bearings in the physical sense, it just doesn’t translate. Talking to others, it seems I’m not alone in that struggle. The views from the top were, of course, stunning. Richard, upon reaching the edge of a steep cliff yelled back to the rest of us, “Oh my God, this is beautiful… I think I’m going to puke.” Apparently he’s not so fond of heights.

We descended the rock and upon reaching the snow pulled out our arsenal of blue lunch trays we hijacked from the galley. The next 30 minutes were “oh my god I’m going to pee my pants” funny. We took our seats upon our makeshift sleds and one by one catapulted ourselves down the hill at lightning speed. It was simultaneously thrilling and terrifying. En route I eventually abandoned my tray for fear of hurting myself, but the thought was a bit flawed as I continued to tumble down the hill due to the sheer speed at which I was traveling. I still have bruises to remind me and everyone else of the event.

Christina, Tim, Me, Richard and Ben at Castle Rock Trailhead

Richard at lookout

Blue meets white

The line-up

Fun on trays!

TWO

As I drove into Ice Town I noticed a small crowd of people standing in a half circle with their backs to me in an otherwise empty field of snow. It appeared they were looking at something. PENGUINS I thought to myself! I parked my van, grabbed my camera and approached the group cautiously. Opposite them and gazing back just as curiously were two Adelie penguins. They were surprisingly tiny. Just as I was getting close enough to get a good picture a C-17 came in for a landing and flew directly overhead. So calm only seconds before, the penguins started flapping their arms wildly and running in circles. My heart sank. They were terrified. After the disturbance they balled up into small mounds on the ice and lay motionless, seemingly traumatized. I hope I was mistaken. I was told, however, that two penguins traveling alone this early in the season most likely won’t survive. With that in mind, I could have waited another month or so to catch sight of the adorable butterballs. Rumor has it, it could be a good year for penguin spotting.

Penguins!!

THREE

Condition 1 was called. All traffic came to a halt. But wait, there were 30 Air National Guardsmen & women stranded out in Ice Town. No worries, a couple of princesses in shining Ivan were dispatched to the rescue! With Helena at my side and permission from the firehouse, I took my seat behind the wheel. As I was leaving town my Shuttles mate, Lonnie, actually radioed me with a, “God’s speed, Erica, drive safe.” This sentiment was hysterically melodramatic and left me feeling like a heroine in some cheesy Hollywood flick.

Visibility? Close to zero. We could make out the flag next to us as we passed it and just when it seemed there was no hope of knowing where to steer next, the flag ahead would come into view. Otherwise, I saw nothing but white. IT WAS FANTASTIC! I had been waiting for this moment since setting foot on this continent. The rest of the story is without incident. We navigated successfully and safely returned the crew. And for the rest of the day the population of McMurdo could see me skipping down the streets smiling contently to myself.

see more of my photos at: http://ej.smugmug.com

Life on the ice is full. If autonomy or seclusion is what one is seeking, McMurdo in the summer is not the place to find it. On the contrary, it is a tight knit bustling community with no end to activity or sunlight. And don’t believe anyone who tells you “it’s a harsh continent.” This is easy living. Sure, we work a minimum of 60 hours per week and the living quarters are tight, but meals are cooked for us, our bathrooms cleaned, and our social calendars filled. There may not be a lot of time left in a day after 10 or 12 hours of work, a shower and meals, but that doesn’t discourage the recreation department from tempting us with an unending list of activities, nor us from engaging in them all. In my short time here I have attended science lectures (that is why we are all here after all); begun thai chi; learned to throw pots in the ceramics room; tried my luck at bingo; taken up knitting and started dodgeball league. This week I begin bellydance lessons and yoga as well. Other ongoing options include language classes; volleyball, soccer, rugby and bowling leagues; writers groups; trivia nights; karate and self defense courses; tap & swing dance lessons; meditation; movie nights; open mic nights and on and on. There is no shortage of talent on this base. Everything you ever wanted to learn is being taught… for free. Of course I haven’t even mentioned the parties that happen here. My first weekend here was the infamous 70’s Party, and of course more recently, Halloween. While dancing in my *go-go boots* (actually gear issued bunny boots) amidst a crowd of steamy people in tight pants, afros and huge glasses a friend of mine whispered in my ear, “this is not what people back home picture when they imagine me in Antarctica!” The Waste Department even put together a haunted house for Halloween. In addition to all of that I have managed to take my skate skis out for an afternoon, and whenever I can, I try to squeeze in a hike, if even a short one.

70’s group shot

Me & Amanda

First skate ski on the ice

First time at the wheel

Self portrait along Hut Point

We are actually pretty limited in respect to how far we are allowed to wander. Aside from the 7 mile long Castle Rock Loop hiking trail, everywhere we are allowed to go is essentially within sight of base. Therefore, any opportunity to leave town is coveted and greatly appreciated. My fourth day on station I had the pleasure of participating in Sea Ice Training. This involved jumping in the back of a Haglund (tracked vehicle with passenger box) and traveling approximately 7 miles out on the sea ice in order to profile cracks, i.e., asses whether or not they are safe to travel across. It was a gorgeous day with stunning views of Mt. Erebus. I was hopeful to spot a penguin since they had seen one the day before, but no such luck. I am still keeping my eyes open for one.

Mt. Erebus

Haglund on ice

The next off-sight adventure will probably be Happy Camper school. This involves setting up camp on the sea ice, building a snow wall and an igloo and practicing other skills needed to survive a night out in the elements in the event any one of us gets stranded away from town. Happy Camper is necessary before we will be considered for a *boondoggle.* A boondoggle is any opportunity to participate in an activity that takes you off station. This may mean a working trip such as dive tending for the divers or assisting the fishing folk or the scientists studying penguins. It could be a helo ride to a remote field camp to assist in some capacity. Or, it could be a bona fide reward for some good deed, or in my case, a great costume.

Yep, I was allowed to join some friends a bit last minute for their group Halloween costume. The saying goes around here, “It’s a harsh continent.” My friend, Sandwhich, had the brilliant idea to dress as the *harsh condiments!* Brilliant. Many hours and much laughter was put into making our costumes. And, in the end, they were fantastic. So fantastic that we won the group costume category. Unbeknownst to me, the prize was an aforementioned boondoggle! I was shocked and ecstatic. Sometime in the future the 6 of us will ride on snowmobiles to “Room With a View,” situated somewhere on Mt. Erebus for the day. I cannot begin to tell you how anxious I am. Oh, and my sauce of choice, A1 Steak Sauce.

The Harsh Condiments!

see more of my photos at: http://ej.smugmug.com

Where did I leave off? In bliss I believe… muttering something about this feeling like summer camp. Well, the next morning – my first day of work – was a rude awakening. Not for any other reason than it was cold outside. Freezing cold as a matter of fact. Or more accurately, far below freezing. Go figure. I know it shouldn’t have come as much of a surprise, but in the short 36 hours I had been here I had let the mild temperatures (-20 to -40 something Farenheit with windchill) convince me that Antarctica wasn’t all that cold after all. And, for the most part, at least in summer, it isn’t.

As long as there is no wind.

It is quite honestly reminiscent of winters in North Dakota and my first day in “Shuttles” began like one of those unbearably cold days growing up when we were mercilessly forced to go outside for recess. But out we went to learn the check-out procedure for all the vehicles. We have to check the fluids, tire pressure, lights, mileage, etc. every day and night before driving any of the vehicles. Our line-up includes 6 vans, 3 Airporters, 3 Deltas & 1 Terra Bus (the Terra Bus is a 56-passenger vehicle with 3 axles and equipped with large balloon tires.. it is 1 of only 7 in existence, the remaining 6 are used in the Canadian Arctic). The Deltas are parked up high in the “Ballpark” and it was there that the cold finally did me in. It’s easy enough to combat the freezing temperatures when staying active, but when standing in the relentless wind or sitting inside a vehicle that has not been heated, the fingers and toes have a tendency to lose feeling despite dancing in place and any number of fruitless attempts to get the blood flowing. By lunch time I looked at my fellow first year shuttle driver, Amanda, and exclaimed, “What was I thinking? This is ridiculous!” Turns out she had the same defeated thoughts and we laughed at ourselves and one another. In reality we have one of the most fun & relaxed entry level jobs on the station.

Amanda and I were the first two new drivers to arrive for the year. A handful of others have funneled in since. Our boss, “Shuttle Sam,” is awesome. I truly enjoy my entire crew. We range in age from 24 to 71. In fact there are four 60+ year old men who are an absolute riot to work with! One of them, Lonnie, is returning for his second season at age 71, fifty years later. After 3 whole days of getting familiar with the base and the vehicles, Amanda and I, *veterans* of McMurdo and Shuttles, began training the “new guys.”

Our department serves the base around the clock. For the first 6 weeks I am on day shift, 5 days a week, 12 hours a day. This means I get two days off each week as opposed to one like most others who work six 10 hour days. I prefer my schedule. One thing that is hard to find down here is down time, so having two days off when others are working is a saving grace.

The days I do work I am assigned one of three duties for the day:

1) Runway Shuttle: This means I drive shuttle for 12 hours back and forth between the base and the current active airfield on a set schedule. We transport Air Force National Guard personnel who are responsible for the operation and maintenance of the fleet of ski-equipped C-130 aircraft used primarily for intra-continental missions of cargo and personnel to the South Pole, as well as for transport to Deep Field Camps. We also transport air traffic controllers, weather observation personnel and cargo and fuel folks who work at “Ice Town” to support the incoming and outgoing flights.

2) Airfield Operations: This involves transporting and picking up the passengers that are arriving and departing throughout the day to and from said airfield. The current airfield is the Ice Runway just 1 ½ miles from town out on the sea ice. This means the “runway” that planes are landing on is approximately 70 inches of ice with nothing but sea below. Crazy.

3) On Call Services: This includes taxi service, dispatch, bellhop for those folks coming & going, shuttles to Scott Base and other work sites outside of town.

I enjoy each of the above categories for different reasons. We rotate every day which helps break up the monotony. I also have the pleasure of meeting everyone who funnels in and out of this place. Although it can get a bit hectic at times, it is a pretty chill job. Probably the most stressful thus far has been getting familiar with and comfortable with the procedures surrounding the Airfield. Approaching the planes is a very delicate operation. There are often 6-8 planes on the ramp or apron (where the planes are fueled and loaded with cargo and passengers before entering the runway itself) at one time and there are very specific rules about how and when we can approach. And we must always ask permission, “MC1 this is Shuttle Erica with flight crew for Skier 96, requesting permission to enter the apron.”

Favorite vehicle? The Deltas are surprisingly easy to drive since they are articulated, making turning a breeze. However, as much as Ivan (the Terra Bus) is a bitch to drive, I can’t help feeling all-mighty when driving that bad boy. The turning radius is about that of a baseball field, including the outfield. Both require climbing ladders to board. The first time I drove Ivan with passengers on board was exciting and a bit nerve wracking, but thankfully without incident. After closing the door I stood up with my camera and told them all to smile, they were my first live cargo transport in Ivan!

Since arriving we have had two Condition 1 weather days. Condition 2 requires that we check in with the firehouse when leaving and returning to town. Condition 1 requires staying put exactly where you are until the condition has been lifted. It is pretty exciting when the wind begins to gain speed, it happens so fast. Unfortunately I have been stuck at dispatch both times Condition 1 was called. Why unfortunately? Because believe it or not Mom, I have a desire to be out in the thick of it when it comes. The storms are so wild and unlike anything I’ve experienced, even back in North Dakota, that I can’t help but want to experience them from somewhere other than inside a building. Granted, I don’t need to be outside, but inside a running vehicle out on the sea ice would be fine by me. Hmmm…as I write this I am reminding myself to be careful what I wish for.

This is Shuttle Erica signing off for today.

see more of my photos at: http://ej.smugmug.com