Ngorongoro’s wild nightlife
Tanzania 1984
It was late. The damp cold outside had kept me in the lodge longer than intended. The nice receptionist who had mentioned a cheap room that morning wasn’t there and while his colleague invited me for a cup of tea I did not quite trust him. I would have paid the going rate but I could not risk him asking for the money declaration form.
It was time to go. The sun was already dipping below the horizon. This was the time the lions wake up and get ready to hunt.
I said good-bye to the receptionist:
“I’ve got to hurry to get back to the village.”
“Watch out,” he replied: “there is an elephant in the area!”
Cheers — I didn’t just have to worry about the lions then, one of which was a man-eater the local hunters were still looking for.
I looked out at the setting sun.
“What about it? There are lots of elephants around here.”
“Yes, but this is a lone bull that has recently started to become aggressive. If I were you I would get a lift to the village.”
I would too, if there were any cars going. There weren’t at this hour.
“I’ve got a tent,” I mused: “Would it be possible for me to put it up on the grounds? It would just be for tonight.”
“That is not permitted,” the receptionists said sternly: “Guests must stay in the lodge. But there is an official campsite in the area.”
I knew about the official campsite, it was as far away as the village but in the opposite direction.
“Oh, alright, I will try my luck,” I said resignedly.
“Be careful,” the man had the nerve to call after me: “there are many lions about at this time!”
Pondering uncharitably that the man would rather throw me to the lions than show me a quiet corner where to pitch my tent, I shouldered my backpack and started to walk the 2km back to the village. I was so annoyed that I forgot about any danger although it was clear that it would be pitch black before I would reach the hostel. To top it all I saw a landrover drive past on the track ahead but it was too far away to notice me.
Just as I stepped through the gates, I ran into two men walking towards the staff accommodation.
“Where are you going?” one of the asked.
“To the village.”
“Are you crazy? Don’t you know how many buffaloes are about at this time of night?”
Actually, I had not considered buffaloes yet, just the lions and the lone elephant.
“Come with us,” the other man said: “you can spend the night at our place and be safe.”
“Ah thank you,” I joked: “Given the choice between you and the lions…”
However it turned out that one of them was working the nightshift and they showed me to his room. His friend was on placement from another lodge in the Serengeti. He made us dinner of Ugali and meat and I spend a peaceful night there, safe from Ngorongoro’s wild nightlife.
Denni