Chilling in Yeppoon
The sun sizzled right through my factor 15 sunscreen—I may as well have basted myself in vegetable oil. Our first port of call in Yepoon was therefore the chemist, not just for sunscreen (which starts at factor 30 here, and is available in litre dispensers from supermarkets) but also hats, zinc cream (for John’s nose) and eyedrops (for John’s eyes). About an hour later, we had to return as John scratched a mosquito bite on his foot open and had to get some plaster. By then, both the pharmacist and the till girl were fussing over him.
I had imagined Yeppoon to be a tiny village, a sort of Australian version of Borth, but it turned out to be a sizeable town, especially yesterday night as the bus driver drove us around the central square twice in seach of a taxi. It being Sunday, there weren’t any. We couldn’t spot the B&B either, despite it being one of only two places recommended in the guide.
“I have no idea where Todd Avenue is.” The driver shrugged and asked us for the B&B’s phone number, typing it into his mobile. Our host agreed to come out to get us.
“I’m waiting here with you,” the driver said.
“But it’s no problem. Honestly. If he doesn’t turn up, we can always phone for a cab!”
“No, but I want to know where this place is for myself!”
So we waited, smoking, by the deserted shopping street. Having a smoke was probably the driver’s ultimate reason for waiting with us, but he walked ahead to greet the host when he arrived while we were still grappling with our bags. His curiosity is understandable as the Whileaway B&B is well known, despite its small size. It is a ‘Boutique B&B’ with 4½ stars and has housed several celebrities. We would stop over here for three nights, because the through train would not have arrived in Proserpine until 3:34 am, and John, as he keeps saying, “doesn’t travel that way”. Flashpacking, as we are now doing, is odd. I like staying in posh places, but we have yet to encounter any other backpackers close up.
But I digress.
The B&B is nowhere near the centre of Yeppoon. While our genial host chatted away, the car drove further and further into the dark suburbs, along a major highway. When we finally arrived, it was deathly quiet. Barely a house was illuminated. The city lights winked at us from the distance.
“Oh damn,” John wispered. “We’re stranded.”
“Shheeet—I told you the average age around here would be about sixty-five,” I hissed back.
We listened for a while to palm fronds rustling in the breeze. There was no other sound: no cars, no music, not even a barking dog. The tide was out, so the sea was too far away to hear any waves.
“We’ll check out tomorrow,” we chrorused.
But we didn’t. Things looked up considerably the following day when we discovered that there is a regular bus service during the day (except at weekends) and the highway didn’t looks so forbidding any more. In fact, the city centre was only ½hr’s stroll along the beach. And the B&B was georgeous. I’m talking crystal decanters of sherry and port, and sweets on our pillows. We were going nowhere.
Yeppoon by daylight turned out to be charming, but the local restaurants are expensive. However, there are plenty of picnic places along the seaside and people making use of them.
So, I suggested we do things properly and go for fish and chips. Good decision, because this is probably the best chippy in the world:
In an unassuming, Fifties-style caff, we discovered a seafood menu that covered the entire wall. Undecided, we opted for the seafood basket. For about fifteen dollars, it contained a bit of everything. Throw in an another five for a side salad and extra chilli sauce, and this is what you get:
Juicy scallops in a crispy, crumbly shell. Battered prawn patties with the tail still sticking out. Firm, fresh reef fish, crumbed and fried. Squid rings which are tender. A big whole prawn. Chips. All with chilli and seafood dips and a salad with greens and beetroot (which goes surprisingly well). And all perfectly fried in healthy, clean vegetable oil.
Australia is no great shakes in the food department, but this is one of the best lunches we’ve ever had.
Denni
January 26th, 2007 at 06:53
hi lol i live in yeppoon glad to se people appreciate it
January 28th, 2007 at 12:41
Yeppoon is a great place–lucky you! 🙂