BootsnAll Travel Network



Archive for the 'Travel' Category

« Home

All Change

Sunday, November 28th, 2010

New Cross Station
When I got married to John, back in 1989, they didn’t declare national holiday, and 21 years later the system has seen fit to annul our marriage.

Until recently we’ve been living in a small town where there were no prospects and where I never really integrated. All this was supposed to change when we returned to London.

At long last, I might get around to apply for British citizenship, integrate fully into society so that I could join my politically-inclined friends in their Facebook banter. After all, I’d arrived back home.

What followed is a shock: I can’t remain in the UK unless I work.

I haven’t had a job since shortly after the treaty changes came about in October 2000 which wiped out my past. Before then it had never occurred to me to ask for a residence permit or indefinite leave to remain as these formalities were regarded as strictly voluntary.

Surely this could not be right. I showed the woman at the citizenship checking service my 21-year-old marriage certificate.

“That means nothing,” she said.

Turns out that she is right. Being an EU citizen married to a Brit means nothing. John is not regarded as an EU national because he is not exercising his treaty rights in his own country, and therefore the EU convention on human rights does not apply to him (or by extension to me, since I’ve also not been exercising my treaty rights).

I don’t want to hear the snorts of incredulity, the “what, really?”s, the bleating of the young ones who wonder where they, or their girlfriends, stand. I’ve been here since deep time, spent half my life here—so much of it that I could only ever hope for it to be a quarter at most, more likely a third. I’ve grown up in this country. And now I have to do it all over again.

I may be 46, but I put 24/11/2010 as my birthday on my application form, as if I would only be born the day after the TEFL interview, once I’d been offered a place. And that is how it feels: all fresh and pink. Raw and unable to make any sense of the language, the country, the food, or the fact that, in Spain, the almond trees will blossom in January.

It’s not like I’m going to a Gulag, or even to prison. It’s just the separation that hurts.

Right now, I’m not quite sure how I will introduce myself to the bright young things waiting for me to join them on the forum and, in a few short weeks, on the course in Barcelona.

Around the World in 1024 Characters

Thursday, July 8th, 2010

I have recently (re-)discovered Ficly and it has given me an idea for some non-fiction writing.

Over the years, I have amassed a plethora of travel-related scribblings—as you know—and I want to explore ways in which to strip down moods and experiences to their bare essence, perhaps weave them together and spin them out into adventure fantasies which can be picked up by other people as they add possible sequels and prequels.

I’ve been looking for a way to get back into writing and this project provides a series of manageable bits which may evolve into something chaotic but coherent. Ficlets has the advantage of being enticingly modular.

Why not have a look and join in with the fun? Ficly supports the usual openID sign-ins.

Caveat: my ‘1024 Character Travelogue’ stories are as near as damn exactly 1024 characters long as my word processor can determine.

Back to writing about it…

Sunday, June 27th, 2010

Drifting past Icebergs

After finishing my novel draft and starting (and aborting) several short stories, I’m slowly turning back to travel writing.

The last couple of weeks browsing have thrown up some good leads (in addition to those I already monitor). First up is Daisann McLane’s travel blog. Although I find its name (therealtravelblog) somewhat sniffy; as if the hundreds of other travel blogs on Bootsnall and elsewhere were somehow less ‘real’ just because not every author has a travel writing gig.

But some do! And sometimes it happens to the best people. 🙂

I don’t have any ambition to write a travel book. I’m just dabbling. But keeping a journal (and later blog) for my own pleasure has done much to enrich the travelling experience and ingrain those memories, good and bad. Sometimes they invade my dreams. And so I’m glad to find that there is plenty of overlap between travel and fiction writing. Lavie Tidhar is one of my favourite authors who does both.

I stumbled across another surprise find when I was looking for a market for one of my stories. Literary nonfiction and fiction together in a webzine full of beautiful writing (if not site design). Some of the travel pieces can be sampled here.

So there is plenty of inspiration to be getting on with. But in a while.

If you’ll excuse me, I have a football game to watch first 😉

Thai Travel ‘Advise’

Sunday, May 16th, 2010

I’ve never seen a more muddled presentation than that in the FCO Travel Advice section for Thailand. Not that I could care any less, but travelling against FCO advice will invalidate any travel insurance policies, so I need to know which particular ‘specific parts of Thailand’ they advice against travelling to.

And yeah, I know about Bangkok.

Escape The Winter Blues…

Sunday, May 16th, 2010

…and do something worthwhile next year!

Libong Nature Beach Resort
Libong Nature Beach Resort

By now, regular readers will know that I’ve recently become interested in the Libong Nature Beach Resort, part of the Lifelong Learning Foundation, a charity that, through its resorts, seeks to promote eco-tourism, local lifelihoods, education and wildlife.

The resort regularly receives volunteers who come to learn about life in the Sea Gypsy community, ecotourism and the local wildlife. They take part in various tours and activities, help with looking after the guests—mainly with translation and advise—and keep the books, for as the Professor said, an open book policy is fundamental to the charity’s goals.

In fact there is almost no limit to what you might get up to as a Libong volunteer, from helping to build a rainforest camp, teaching English to the local children (and staff) or becoming involved in local crafts and small business initiatives.

Now an opening has arisen for one or two volunteers to spend the peak season (Nov-April) at the Libong Nature Beach Resort, to work with guests and locals and teach visitors about sustainable ecotourism. Food and lodging is provided but there will be a donation of 10,000 baht a month to cover admin expenses and support the foundation.

You know it makes sense!

Sunset Sunset at the Libong Nature Beach Resort

‘Koh Taoism’: Conservation Initiatives Involving Travellers And Divers

Friday, February 5th, 2010

Ko Tao

‘Koh Taoism’ is an initiative by local businesses to preserve Koh Tao and its reefs and lessen the environmental impact of tourism on the island. The slogan hasn’t yet made it onto the web, but if you visit the island you can’t miss it.

Most of the large dive operators have signed up to the Marine Branch of Save Koh Tao which involves regular clean-up dives, among other things. These clean-up dives are free for certified divers, are great fun and you even get a certificate. Back on firm ground you can take part in the regular beach clean-ups which are usually followed by a party. On an individual level there is a drive to reduce plastic usage on the island. Plastic bags blown into the sea can kill turtles and other marine life. The 7:11 staff will act surprised if you bring your own bag along, but a few of the smaller shops and cafés support the ‘no plastic is fantastic’ initiative and use paper bags instead.

It’s a start. Koh Tao, it seems, is adapting to green tourism. But is it too late? Is this just scratching the surface or—cynics might suggest—putting a green spin on what is outright exploitation? After all there is no shortage of operators happy to charge big bugs for volunteer programs and conservation courses, and with over 40 dive operators crammed onto the island the impact might be just too much.

Well, yes and no. The best way for conservation would be to restrict visitor numbers and development on the island, but development is largely completed (bigger resorts are actively discouraged: here community initiative is vital in the absence of any real planning regulation) and tourism in this part of Thailand is a fact. Educating people about the need for conservation in the face of damage they can clearly see is more than greenwash. It is the way forward for more eco-conscious travel.

However, unless action is taken, there isn’t much point in monitoring the destruction. If the coral is bleaching, restocking and installing artificial reefs isn’t the answer. And if nutrient influx threatens to smother the reef, a wastewater treatment scheme will have to be instigated. Constructed wetlands are a low-tech approach that could be feasible on Koh Tao, but somebody will have to get their hands dirty and put their money where their mouth is.

Libong Dugongs Aerial Survey

Tuesday, January 26th, 2010

Research on the dugongs of Libong is ongoing, with another aerial survey completed. It’s odd that the Professor didn’t tell me about it since his Lifelong Learning Foundation has co-funded some of the research.

In fact it’s a long-term project. The current PI, Kanjana Adulyanukosol, has worked in the Libong area since at least the mid-nineties. Given her experience I hope that there is cause for optimism, though a slight decline has been observed. The variation in sightings is large and absolute counts are not possible, so I take this to mean that the decline is non-significant. In such a small population—and given the slow reproductive rate of the dugong—it would otherwise be cause for serious concern.

It would be interesting to compare the data from all surveys carried out from 1997 (which I think was the first) until now.

The Dept. of Marine & Coastal Resources in Phuket seems to have matters in hand. Maybe rather than trying to survey the dugongs myself (I’d thought about rigging up a blimp cam), I should focus on mapping the seagrass habitat.

Seagrass

One thing is for sure: the field is more crowded than I thought.

And that is a good thing.

Homecoming

Thursday, January 21st, 2010

Ko Tao
Coming home from holiday is always a bit of a shock; especially when it involves startling awake in a congested, droning metal tube, improbably suspended in the night sky 30000 feet above the Siberian tundra and convinced that—at any moment—the spaceship is about to crash to Earth.

But coming back from Thailand is more than that. Awakening is not followed by relief. The colours dancing in my head on the National Express bus home did not settle down to the surrounding vista of grey, followed by a mild pang of regret.
Back home...
It’s not a question of putting some jerk chicken in the oven or going out for a curry and turning the radio to the Asian Network. I’m turning my entire kitchen over because I want to recapture those smells. I can’t let go of them.

Coming back from Thailand is heartbreaking.

Consider this: of the fifty countries I have visited, Thailand is the only one I keep coming back to for reasons unrelated to work, family or the constraints of a package holiday. And that was before I had a better reason to consider it.

John is the same. The proximity of the Red Sea is the only thing that placates him (it looks like I’ll have to take up diving again!)

One thing is for sure: we will be back!

One Last Memento

Extraordinary Measures

Wednesday, January 20th, 2010

Suit Fitting

As far as I could tell, the suit fitted perfectly. John shrugged into the jacket and turned, looking over his shoulder, when a pained expression crossed his face.

“What is it?” the Tailor asked.

“Not enough, er—” he indicated his crotch, “—ballroom.”

The Tailor tsk-ed and walked around him, tweaking here and there.

“Bend over. Hm…” He gestured at the row of chairs. “Sit down and spread your legs. Let me see.”

John did, grimaced and got up again. “It’s no good. It’s too tight!”

At that moment a man on a scooter pulled up outside, grabbing several suit covers that were draped over the handlebar. The Tailor gestured and he tossed the suits over a rail and came over. The two exchanged a few words in Thai.

The man shook his head and the Tailor pointed towards John. Without taking off his helmet, the Driver walked over and crouched on the floor, where—with the Tailor leaning over his shoulder—he proceeded to feel John’s crotch.

The Driver tsk-ed and mumbled something.

“Not normal size,” The Tailor translated.

“Big, eh?” the Driver grinned. There was another short exchange in Thai, then the Tailor picked out the roll of Cashmere which had been the material for the suit. Waving his yard stick, he measured out a generous strap and ran his scissors through the precious material. He handed the strap to the Driver while shooting John an admonishing glance.

The Driver took the offending trousers and extra material and departed.

“Come back tonight,” the Tailor said.

John did. This time the suit fitted perfectly.

Had Chao Mai National Park: Crowded Paradise

Friday, January 15th, 2010

Crowded Paradise

I was already aching at the prospect of returning to bustling Bangkok and—all too soon—head for home, so signing up for the daytrip had been a good idea.

“Which island is it going to?,” I asked when I signed the receipt. I was surprised that the agent hadn’t discussed the various options with me.

“Four island,” she said. “Muk Island, Kradan Island, Chueak and Ma Island. Everything.”

*

[read on]