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Greenland: hickups

Friday, July 7th, 2006

I have to say my contact at Arctic Umiaq is going out of her way to facilitate my travel to Greenland, but it looks as if I will have to fly to Ilulissat—right over prime whalewatching country—and only spend two nights and a few daylight hours on board a ship.

The flying around inflates my transport budget by almost two thirds, or to what it would be if I flew Air Greenland, although that would not have included any boat rides.

But it’s either that or stay at home.

On the downside, there are several days stopover when I must secure a bunk bed or get permission to put up my tent somewhere—days during which I will also have to eat.

On the upside, I have an overdraft limit. And I may manage to chat up a friendly Dane or Inuit who wants to take me out in a kayak or something…

Now if only that pesky Yahoo email would work, I could resume my official discussion with the sales office. Grrr. As soon as I actually manage to dial up online (our ISP was out two days ago, then it was the local exchange…) the bloody Yahoo server freezes up. At this rate I might as well be in Greenland already!

Greenland: planning progress

Thursday, July 6th, 2006

Would you go to Greenland for a thousand quid? Even if the trip is only ten days long—perhaps as little as one week, plus a few days in Copenhagen on the way there or back? And with no tobacco run? (Although there may be access to duty-free shopping. Greenland is part of Denmark, but special rules may apply.)

Hell, yes.

I have been in touch with the friendly sales people at the Arctic Umiaq Line which from this summer also fly twice weekly from Copenhagen to Kangerlussuaq, and on. These people offer regular ferry trips along Greenland’s west- and south coast, including the area around Aasiaat where the whales come close to shore in late summer and autum. They offer special ‘r�d pris’ tickets which means I could get a return flight from Copenhagen for around 300 quid. That puts Greenland within my budget. But only just. The ferry round-trip to Uumannaq will cost about 400 quid (seat only) and I have to add on flights from London to Copenhagen and overnight stays. I might stay over at Ilulissat—the stop before Uumannaq—to save a few pennies pounds. There is a hostel there, and there is also one in Kangerlussuaq which I did not know about. As both may be fully booked, bringing a tent is a must.

Greenland here we come!

Worldnomads Honour Claim

Wednesday, July 5th, 2006

The review committee at Worldnomads has found in my favour (I think I have blogged this before) and have now settled my claim. The settlement is fair and it means that I can replace my backpack and sturdy boots which I will need for that Greenland trip (I haven’t given up! I’m trying to wangle one of the cheaper ‘rød pris’ tickets).

I’m over the moon! Sure, my financial situation isn’t as dire as after that SE Asia trip, but replacing the equipment would have thrown a spanner into my planning even before the high travel costs did. Greenland ain’t flip-flop country!

Greenland go? Weeell…

Wednesday, July 5th, 2006

It now looks as if the Dell engineers are going to install the Company’s servers (it’s a big order—about 1 million dollars’ ). This means that John won’t get his summer job. He’ll still not take his holidays—he has projects to supervise—but he won’t be paid for the privilege.

Still, I could get about a thousand quid for my trip, but a thousand quid is barely enough to get to Greenland and take a ride on the local ferry.

“You can’t travel like an executive’s wife,” he says. “Not yet.”

Travel like an executive’s wife? For that money I’ll be lucky to secure a sleeper-seat in a rusty trawler and I’ll have to camp in most of the villages and cut back on meals.

Next year, I can have two grand, but next year is NipponCon and this is my best excuse yet to go to Japan (or will be, if I get anything accepted and a novel pitch ready). In the meantime, it looks like it’s curtains for whale watching this year, although I’ll have a look into Glacier Bay. Maybe they do no-frills flights to Anchorage.

Summer Travel Plans

Monday, July 3rd, 2006

John has received a fat bonus.

He has also agreed to give up his remaining holiday leave so that he can help the Company set up its new servers in London in August (this has nothing to do with his current contract). For this, he will receive consultant fees. In lieu of summer holidays, he’s going to take the entire month of January off—after finishing his contract and before starting his new job—so we’ll be travelling to Australia together. But until then he’s going to work long hours and I don’t particularly fancy hanging out in London while he messes around with the hardware, especially if rumours are true that the carnival’s been cancelled.

So, I’m going to spend some of his bonus and consultant fees on…a trip to Greenland. Whale watching.

That is, if I can rig it. My Danish knowledge will come in very useful here. Greenland has a tourist webguide, but not much advise on getting there and the LP is likewise thin on advise. I’m going to look at my options in more detail tomorrow.