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River of Treacle

Sunday, December 11th, 2005

Kuala Lumpur is a strange town. It has no day or night, only periods of light and dark.

When I woke up in my window-less cubicle for the third time, I finally turned on the light. It was just before 7. Relieved, I gathered my stuff together and grabbed the daypack.

Outside, the sky was just brightening. In the dim lights shining through glass-panneled doors, I could make out people playing snooker and figures lit by the ghostly shimmer of computer terminals—the remnants of the past night. At the Hindu temple at the corner of Jl Pudu Lama, bells, incense and the first colourful flower displays heralded the arrival of the new morning.

At my old guest house, I had to wait, but when the receptionist finally emerged he was happy to see me and did not seem to mind when I turned down the first room he offered—opposite the first floor toilets and smelling as if the previous occupier had not quite made it that far. I checked into a large, airy room in the upper floor for 30RM and breathed a sigh of relief. Whatever the situation was with Michael, if I’m going to recover from being sick, I better do it in comfort.

Yeah, that heat exhaustion from 2 days ago was not all there was to it. Transferring my backpack from the Pudu Guest House around the corner, I could feel the dizzyness return, although I took care to walk slowly. I felt a flash of indignation: it was not even 7:30 in the morning and yesterday the fever had not returned until the afternoon—I had expected to be free from it during the first half of the day. Whatever it was that spread through my body was taking over, robbing me of my strength. Well, it could hardly get worse than almost collapsing on the street in Chinatown.

I clutched the little flask of peppermint oil one of the Chinese ladies had given me and ascended the stairs slowly.

After two hours of rest, the dizzyness had all but disappeared. It turned out to be nothing serious, just the repercussions of the stomach upset from Taman Negara, but I decided to rest for 2 days, get all my clothes washed and recharge my batteries before hitting the road to Indonesia. That’s why I’m still in KL.

***

Because I exist in no particular time zone, I wasn’t sure what time it was when I emerged from the darkened internet café today. I returned to the temple and ordered a vegetarian curry from one of the restaurants next to it, only to notice that everyone was tucking into Dhosai—it was only 10 in the morning.

Damn, I thought: I missed out on a good thing. But then the vegetarian curry arrived:

Vegetarian curry
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Rainforest for Beginners

Sunday, December 11th, 2005

(long entry warning)

When I woke up this morning, I got a surprise. Not that this is unusual when travelling—in fact it had happened to me most mornings on this trip—but this was not just the familiar ‘where am I’-feeling. It was an unexpected emotional awareness of…something.

The sounds of the forest surrounded me: a chorus of birds with harmonies of bugs. The atmosphere was strangely serene and peaceful. The trunks of the giant Dipterocarps on the opposite bank looked like pillars in a cathedral.

I’ve been to the rainforest before, but perhaps I had been too deeply within to appreciate it. Kuala Tahan hovers on the boundary of the national park across the river. There was a sense of being in the presence of something primordial—which of course this forest is.

***

The weather was holding. Part of me was still undecided about going on a trek, so meanwhile I had booked a short excursion while making up my mind: an walk through the canopy.
Canopy Walk2
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Bug Safari

Sunday, December 11th, 2005

The river bus had delivered us to Kuala Tahan a few hours before dark, so I booked a place on the night walk, or rather the Bug Safari. If you can’t beat ’em, join ’em!

We set off by boat across the river at 9pm. Just past the last of the wooden luxury chalets of the park resort, the jungle began. Ducking under the wooden lianas which mark the start of the trail, we suddenly found ourselves surrounded by forest. The air was completely still—not a breeze stirred in the leaves—and stifling like wet cotton wool. The silence was broken by the chirping of countless insects and the hooting of far-away monkeys. Occasionally, a feint rustling ruffled the branches ahead.

Ghost-like, our torches fingered the green walls around us.

Our first sighting was dismissed by the guide as a ‘small spider’:
Spider1
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Into the Jungle

Friday, December 9th, 2005

feet.jpg

Having no alarm clock and being such a chronophobe, I woke up about every ½h, finally getting out of bed at a quarter to six—just before really drifting off to sleep. Why does daylight have such a soporific effect on me?

I breakfasted on an Imodium. I think I would have been alright if I had not seen the guys at the food court prepare the chicken and plotted the bacterial growth curves in my head. The irony was that I didn’t even have the chicken—I had the pork feet in vinegar (which were slow-cooked and therefore fine), washed down with a bottle of ‘Tiger’ beer. This caused me considerable embarrassment when I was joined at the table by a family of other diners.
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Up yours!

Tuesday, December 6th, 2005

The weather was OK this afternoon, so I set off across town to the Petronas Twin Towers—the tallest buildings in the world. From the sky bridge, on the 41st floor, Kuala Lumpur could really be appreciated.

The towers are at the KLCC centre. I stepped out of the Putra station and looked around, map in hand.

“Can I help you?”

“Yeah, eh, twin towers?” (feeling slightly apprehensive when saying that).

“You’re standing right in front of them. You can see better if you take the other exit from the station.”

There were a few high-ish buildings around, but nothing like New York. Surely, that could not be it?
KL buildings.jpg

I turned around and there it was. I’ve got to say that the Empire State Building looks higher, Canary Wharf more imposing. But perhaps the scale of the towers was best appreciated from closer up.
Petronas Towers.jpg

To get a (free) ticket for the sky bridge, we had to scuttle into the basement, like rats. There was a sign that no more tickets were available for the day, even though the towers had just re-opened after prayers and it would be hours yet before they would close.
closed.jpg

Oh well, up yours then. Another box ticked. It reminds me why I never bother with sight-seeing back in London. Relieved, I returned to the colourful, lively bustle of Chinatown and Little India.

***
That was about it from Kuala Lumpur for now—I’ve just booked a ticket to Taman Negara (a combined bus and boat ride) leaving early tomorrow. I’m not likely to be near an internet café until I’m back in Kuala Lumpur or Singapore which could be in anything from 3-5 days. There is no point in dithering: it’s my once in a lifetime opportunity to visit SE Asia’s premier rainforest reserve

Chinatown

Tuesday, December 6th, 2005

So, the neighbourhood is a little dodgy, but it has its compensations. Lots of backpacker hostels, for one; the proximity of the bus station for another. I won’t have to go far to make my enquiries about Taman Negara; although it would sure help if the beer was a bit cheaper.

I don’t feel like hanging out in my guesthouse any more (see previous entry).

Another advantage is that this is right next to the colourful bustle of Chinatown (and Little India!):

KL Chinatown 2.jpg chinatown4.jpg

Here you can get almost anything, especially when looking for cheap food. Chinese tea is a real discovery: Malaysian tea is served with condensed milk (shudder).

I got my glasses fixed (10RM; nothing here is cheap, except for the food), but the traditional craft stalls have all been replaced by shops selling modern consumer goods, so no luck with my sandals and my creaking backpack yet.

Around the corner from Chinatown is the art-deco style Central Market:

market.jpg
It’s mainly an overpriced handicraft-bazaar but the buildings in this area are charming. And all this before breakfast! I’m off for a lunch in the food court now. ‘Pork feet with ginger and vinegar’—may as well wallow in it while I’m here 😉

KL Central Market area.jpg

Nice ‘Hood!

Tuesday, December 6th, 2005

KL Malaysia.jpg

Chinatown, around the corner from Puduraya Bus Station

This street is blissfully quiet at night.

I discovered this place by following LP directions across the road from Puduraya Bus Station and then walking up a set of stairs to look for something a little more peaceful.

During the day, the little street turns into a popular short-cut and the drone of the scooters duely awoke me at 7:30 this morning, despite the earplugs. This isn’t a bad thing. It means that I can get more done during the day. Early to bed and all that.

In a country where a small bottle of beer costs 2$ US, it isn’t a bad thing at all.
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Fools will travel…

Monday, December 5th, 2005

(…or why I am not a Lonely Planet Writer)

The ferry was late, and it was packed. That should have told me something.

According to LP and to local lore, buses leave directly from the tiny town of Kuala Perlis for Kuala Lumpur several times a day. I got to the bus station just in time to miss the 13:00 departure, cursing mildly at the 1.5h wait. From the outside, Kuala Perlis is little more than the ferry terminal, the bus station and a small strip of basic eateries and what LP describes as ‘grotty, dirt-cheap hostels’. In short, my kind of place—the kind I always seem to end up in.
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Unlucky 3rd

Saturday, December 3rd, 2005

I had a beastly few days, but it’s therapeutic to write about it 😉

Plenty of good times ahead!

That evening at the bar, we had a discussion about auspicious and unlucky numbers.

“The Chinese believe eight is a bad number…” Lisa began.

“No, no,” I said, remembering a recent TV commercial: “Eight is supposed to bring prosperity. But four—four is bad…”

“Yeah; four signifies death,” she agreed.

“So; there is no fourth floor in buildings and no groundfloor either because the ground floor is the first floor. And in Hong Kong, they don’t have a 13th floor—so let me see…” I began counting on my fingers.

“No 13th?” Ansil looked doubtful.

“Many Westerners believe it’s unlucky. Don’t you, here in Malaysia?”

He shook his head.

“It’s just superstition. Personally, I don’t believe it—but many people believe the number 13 brings bad luck; especially on a Friday the 13th.”

“Like in the horror movie!”

And so on. Personally, I don’t have a problem with 13— after all, there are people who think it lucky, like those who were born on a 13th, but I have never liked the number 3, ever since I was a kid. I have always wished for a fairy tale where the protagonist had just one wish,or two or four, but not three. Always three.

So perhaps it’s not surprising that December 3rd was not my lucky day.
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Bug-attack!

Saturday, December 3rd, 2005

In the tropics, there’ll be bugs. Im afraid of bugs above a certain size—very afraid—but not so much that it will keep me from travelling. Here I am surrounded by people who know no fear, including the backpackers in my dorm who will leave the door open with the light on all day and night.
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