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Archive for October, 2004

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NARA

Sunday, October 17th, 2004

After one day of doing absolutely nothing, I was numb with boredom. I decided to check out the NARAheadquarters in Colombo. There might still be people working there who had been involved with the National Marine Mammal Programme in the ’80s and, in any event, there would be a library. A phoned on my behalf and arranged for a visit. She showed me the rather vague directions she had received, there had been no information on-line other that NARA was located in Mattakuliya at the border of Colombo city.
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Trial by bus

Saturday, October 16th, 2004

Getting a bus back to Kandy and, more importantly, seats should not be a problem, seeing that we were staying opposite the bus station at the eastern terminus of the Trinco-Kandy service. However, there were no private buses that morning and all seats in the CBT bus had been taken over an hour before it was due to depart. People had draped their luggage and children across the benches, leaving the odd granny in charge who would raise a forbidding hand as soon as we glanced in her general direction, then gone off to get provisions. We were lucky to find a metal storage box to sit on next to the door, but we had to get up periodically for items to be added or removed. By the time we were on the move, the bus was packed even tighter than the one on the way to Trinco.
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Return to Trincomalee

Friday, October 15th, 2004

The next morning John and I found ourselves in another minibus, speeding back towards Trinco. John had agreed to come along because he figured I could do with some support. I did my best to sell him the charms of Trincomalee, alas with little success.
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Stout, steak and kidney pie

Friday, October 15th, 2004

Autum is here. The trees on the hills are blushing with the first colours of fall, mist creeps into the valley at night and the time has come for warm, comforting dishes.
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Water shortages, forest fires and whale talk

Thursday, October 14th, 2004

Every drop of water had to be labourously transferred to a tank on the roof and all we got was a trickle from the taps and the occasional flush of the cistern. Rob had managed to borrow a pump from the university and now there was at least enough water for a quick shower. Even better, the heater was working as normal. As I shampooed my hair, I kept glancing nervously at the electrical wiring which was installed right next to the shower head. When I turned the knob to regulate the temperature, I was sure I saw a blue spark. My nerves deserted me and I got out quickly, towelling the shampoo from my hair. The others happily took their showers and nobody ended up being electricuted.
“But it can’t be safe!” I exclaimed.
“Look at it this way,” Rob said laconically: “Nothing has happened, yet.”
“My dad came along for a visit last year” S said. “We stayed a week and he never once had a shower. He figures the wiring is lethal!”
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Plans for Portugal

Thursday, October 14th, 2004

I spent most of the afternoon exploring my options for my birthday-trip in November. Basically these are two-fold: Head south to Morocco via Gibraltar or explore Portugal. Both options are constrained by time (15 days) and budget. The former is a major shortcoming with regard to Morocco, the latter will be a problem in Portugal where accommodation rarely costs under 10£, my maximum daily budget. However, if I camp all the way, Portugal should just about be affordable.
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A troubled history

Wednesday, October 13th, 2004

Over dinner, the discussion turned back to the weather. Incredibly, the looming clouds had again dissipated. There had been little rain since October and everybody was waiting for the northeast monsoon to pick up belatedly. I had gained an indication of how wet the region usually is from mildew stains on the walls of some of the campus buildings. Overhead, one of the ceiling tiles also showed signs of recent water damage.
“Better get your roof fixed before the rains come back.” I said, pointing upwards.
“Oh that,” said Simon: “That happened a few months ago when people were throwing rocks at the house. One went through the roof!”
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Christmas in Kandy

Tuesday, October 12th, 2004

Kandy, the final stronghold of the Buddhist kings and home to the sacred relic of the Buddha’s tooth (‘sweet tooth’ jokes abound) nestles by an artificial lake at the foot of the highlands. Here in the hills, it was markedly cooler.
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Elephants, Porcupines and Propositions (2)

Monday, October 11th, 2004

In Pinnawela, Kunara refused to join us on our trip to the orphanage.
“Oh come on”, we pleaded: “We can take the labtops with us so nobody can steal them.”
“It is not just that” he replied: “Its the car!”
His worried expression said it all. I would not want to be the one telling Rob that anything had happened to his brand-new Hyundai. We left him in the shade licking an ice-cream and promised to be quick.
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Elephants, Porcupines and Propositions (1)

Sunday, October 10th, 2004

The next day, my arms and legs were pock-marked with mosquito bites. I carried a cut lime around to rub on my skin in an attempt to ease the fierce itching. I was high on histamines.
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