Motorcycle Diaries: On the Road to Pai
Somehow I found myself in Chiang Mai, Thailand- it gets a lot of hype as one of the best places in this country, but it is just a Bangkok-north. Since it is the town I fly out of when I leave for home in less than a couple of weeks, it made sense to use it as a base for exploring north-western Thailand.
I decided to rent a real motorcycle for the remaining time I have – and to just cruise the country-side.
My first destination is the town of Pai – and it is from here that I am posting this blog.
It was all of the 4 hours to get here – a very twisty and turny mountain road although the first 75 K or so out of Chiang Mai was all city-like driving.
Having a real bike was good though. Power when needed and I find them easier to control and stop than the motos.
And a real bike gives you street cred. It’s been kinda funny as not too many people have bikes with hand clutches and etc. And the bike looks like a bigger street cruiser despite the measly 250cc – the twin exhasts help with the deception. I’ve been asked twice if it was a 750. It just looks cool and it gets noticed – very weird.
And it was a blast once I left the urban areas. The highway is nicknamed the road of a thousand hairpin turns. It might be inflated by just a handful, but not really by much and it constantly went up and down over and around the hiils – a very pretty drive. A lot of Thai folks come up from bangkok and Chiang Mai for the new years’ celebration, so there were long lines of cars and suvs to pass (and get passed by).
It was tough to find a place to stay. I did luck out and rented a bungalow some 3k out of town in a rural setting, but with the bike, no big deal. I will have to moderate on NYE though I suppose. The bungalow has a comfy king-size bed, a stereo that I can play my IPOD through and even a dvd and tv. Oh Yes, and a coffee pot. So I bought some beans and a filter. Morning have been great to just hang out, listen to music, read and drink a cuppa.
Pai’s not Square(d)
Although there are plenty of faraang (westerners) here, Pai is the place for elite Thais to be, and to be seen.
There are hip-thais, yup-thais, ras-thias, pad(ded)-thais and punk-thais and they are all here to celebrate the new year…and for westerners, there are all sorts: blue-haired ladies; old hippies; retirees; young neo-hippy world-travelers; drug-culture burn-outs; aspiring tantric yoga buddhist-new-agers; and etc. There are too many guys that I could easily become (but won’t) – 45-55ish and now tired of the rat-race and have picked this place because it is easy to do nothing and to seek ‘enlightnment’ via meditation and certain herbal supplements. Opium and ganga are available without too much difficulty.
But there are hills and rivers, and biking and hiking, and rafting – so things to actually do if you could get off of your chilled-out rear end.
Maybe they will next week.
Every one here tries to be and look cool. It’s like a Girdwood Alaska festival X 10.
I spent the morning drinking coffee in my bungalow and eating pastry that I bought last night. The banana-coconut muffin was brilliant. As I took my second bite into what I thought was an apple turnover I discovered it was a tuna turnover.
There wasn’t a 3rd bite.
I read a couple of chapters of a Conrad novel I bought in Vang Vieng, then rode to town for a real breakfast and to walk/drive around a bit to secure the layout in my mind. A quick trip back home to the bungalow to change and begin a day touring.
It was a good afternoon as it is pretty here. The valley has lots of farms and it is very fertile. They bring burmese in to work the fields…or rather they let the burmese cross the border.
I’m at an internet cafe called apple pai – you guessed it only apple computers…
Things are gearing up for the new years celebration – at the big NYE party in town, there will be 6 Thai bands: rock, jazz, techno, reggae…should be fun.
Tags: motorcycle, new year, pai, thailand, Travel
jpb
January 1st, 2007 at 4:02 pm
It all sounds grand (minus the tuna turnover that is) and I must admit I am a little envious. I have always suspected there would be a huge westerner population of the sort you describe there. This of course means you can never settle there, even under the pretense of observing the unique culture of all the “odd” folks, as that is probably their cover too.
The only other folks I know who have settled in that area have had interesting relations with a certain Corsican Connection. It seems it’s a nice place to live if you have caused too much heat for the family.
Keep living the dream; see you upon your return in 2oo7.
January 7th, 2007 at 9:03 pm
Hi..
That corsican connection could explain a thing or two…I came across more than one middle-aged american that really had more-or-less lame stories on how they ended up in Pai…
But I could see living in some of the other northern towns…Sappong for instance. Food and a small bunglow-style house would cost around $600 a month.
There would be plenty of outdoor sports and activities to keep one busy, great roads for biking (both pedal and motor-powered), and only a half-day’s drive from a major city and airport.
j