Chile 1 – Valparaiso
I think I’ve been slacking a bit on one of my favorite things lately…lists. So, I’m going to kick things off today with a couple of lists about the differences between Ecuador/Peru and Chile.
3 Things I Miss About Ecuador and Peru
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The prices. While still cheaper than North America, Chile is noticeably more expensive than Ecuador and Peru. I guess I got spoiled with my $9 per night with private bath the past few months. Of course, the higher prices seem to come with a bit more law and order than exists in E & P so I guess that’s a good thing…
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Clear, easily understood Spanish. I might as well be speaking Swahili here in Chile for all the good my Spanish is doing me. I was warned that Chileans are difficult to understand but I was definitely not prepared.
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Friendly people. Chileans strike me as a bit more reserved population than other parts of South America. Not unfriendly, per se…just not chatty like Ecuadorians and Peruvians. But maybe that’s OK because I don’t understand a word they’re saying (see #2 above).
View of Valparaiso with Ascensor in the foreground
3 Things that Make Me Over the Moon to Be in Chile
- Napkins that do not resemble 1 square sheet of one-ply toilet paper. For real…the napkins in Ecuador and Peru are virtually useless. My greasy fingers could not be happier.
- The return of yellow lemons. For reasons that continue to confound we foreigners traveling through Ecuador and Peru…there are no yellow lemons to be found anywhere. Indeed, “limon” to Ecuadorians and Peruvians are actually limes and when you ask for a yellow lemon they stare at you blankly like they’ve never heard of such an outlandish thing. We don’t get it and it’s an endless source of confusion…but I’m here to tell you that in Chile…we have yellow lemons!!
- Hot showers. After a month of cold showers in Arequipa…enough said.
- Cheap, good wine everywhere. Hallelujah…my ship has come in!
- Sea critters. Those who have been keeping track know that my entire time in Peru was spent high in the mountains…which means no sea critters (aside from the excellent lake trout…which is more of a lake critter?). If you consult the map of my current location you will see that Chile in its entirety is bounded by the sea. Sea critters and wine…how could I be so lucky?
So I’ve gotten a few e-mails from people lately wondering about the 30 hour bus ride (but interestingly, no blog comments. Are everybody’s fingers too frozen to type?). The bus ride proved to be not so bad as it turns out that Chile has some fancy “sleeper” type buses that recline almost completely. Therefore, I spent about 30 hours laying in a “recliner-type” position which is, quite frankly, very relaxing. Upon arrival in Santiago I caught a one hour bus to Valparaiso on the coast which is where all of these pictures are from.
Well-kept mansion
Appears well-kept from the front but on the side is disintegrating rapidly
This one is also crumbling rapidly…and is for sale.
Lots of visitors to Valparaiso think it is a beach resort when, in fact, Valparaiso is actually
a very busy Naval base and shipping harbor. The main attraction in Valpo is the interesting architecture and brightly-painted buildings of years past. The city is built on a series of hills (cerros) which are connected via ascensores (elevators) similar to those you may recall from way back in Pittsburgh at Mile 3510. It’s may be hard to tell in these photos but some of these grand mansions are in very sad shape…frequently you can even see cracks in the walls from the earthquakes.
Other than wandering the old streets packed with mansions and slums there isn’t much to do other than a super cheap tour of the harbor (US$2). Of course, the guide´s Chilean Spanish was nearly impossible to understand so I got few of the details…but some pictures are included. The tourist office does a good job of organizing some self-guided tours through the streets….the one I like the best went along the rocky coast ultimately ending up at a (fairly rundown) beach but nonetheless, the scenery is beautiful.
A couple days rest and I’m ready to move on. I’m currently in Santiago again as I wait for my bus heading south. My first stop is Puerto Montt in the southern lake district and the Island of Chiloe. Not sure how the internet situation will be on Chiloe as it’s less touristy than other parts of Chile so don’t be surprised to see a bit of delay in the Extravaganza. My best to everyone and stay warm!
Tags: 10 - Chile, Chile, seafood, Valparaiso
Stacey
February 1st, 2008 at 4:19 pm
Sorry, you felt deserted we (as a typical mom, I am speaking for all of you readers, the ones I know and the ones I don’t!) are still reading. By the way are you kidding that we might remember back in Pittsburgh??? I can barely remember yesterday. (Now speaking for myself)nrI am still enjoying my vicarious vacation. If it actually where me traveling, I don’t think I would get so much out of it, so THANKS
February 1st, 2008 at 10:55 pm
What about the coffee has there been an improvement? I’m glad to hear you survived the 30 hour bus trip, it sounds hellish, even if you say otherwise.
And yes, its been one heck of a winter here in cheeseland, you picked a good one for the extravaganza!
Valparaiso looks lovely, enjoy.
February 2nd, 2008 at 4:07 am
Hej Stacey!
Reeding about the lemons with a big smile on my lips!!! I can hardly reed about yours or Eugenias adventures because I miss it SO much! But my plan is to go to Argentina this fall and thats what keeps me going working hard in shity swedish winter weather ; )
Cuidate mucho!
Big hug!
February 3rd, 2008 at 11:17 pm
Hey, I’m still reading the blog very faithfully….it is a new month, so there is hope for spring in maybe two months or so, hopefully in time for your return to us!!! Valpo looks really cute with it’s colorful buildings…..Maxine’s comments about yesterday really ring true here….no memory!
February 4th, 2008 at 10:33 am
Stacey,
I apologize along with everyone else on neglecting to give feedback on the great job you are doing, I look forward to every adventure, in fact I just commented to your Mom that I feel disapointed when I check and there is not a new posting. The limons also brought a smile to my face. Stay safe and healthy.
Faye
February 4th, 2008 at 11:36 am
Hey! A Pittsburgh shout out! Of course we remember your trip here. John and Heidi were just asking about you yesterday. We are all secretly very jealous that you can take off for a year. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!
PS, Of all the things that one can miss: yellow lemons? Did you just have a really strong yen for lemonade?
February 4th, 2008 at 5:44 pm
STACER!nr So funny about the lemons. I can assure you that in Colombia they don’t have the yellow ones either! Enrique still gets confused 😉 I love Chilean wine too, enjoy for me!