Stacey’s 30th Birthday Extravaganza

Ryan, Colette and Amber…with Stacey taking the photo at “The Bean” in Millenium Park in Chicago, Illinois

Hi everyone…sorry for yet another delay.  Getting one’s life back on track is a little more time-consuming than I originally realized so things have been lagging here at the Extravaganza.  Never fear, I’m back on track and after this post there are two more to go so everyone should gear up for the final week of the Extravaganza.  So…for this post I’ve gone through all of my old pictures from phase 1 of the trip…the North American Roadtrip.  Some of the pictures you may have seen before and others I don’t believe I included the first time around.  For content I’ve devoted some time to reflecting on all of the things I’ve done in the past 9 months and picked out some favorites, recommendations and general thoughts. 

Mackinac Bridge, Michigan

Jared and Stacey at a Tigers’ game in Detroit, Michigan

View of Montreal from Archeological Museum in Montreal, Quebec, Canada

Stacey and Erik in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania

Best Value Hotel

1. North America – Hotel Omni Mont-Royal – Montreal, Quebec, Canada – Great deal on an upscale hotel in Montreal (snagged via Hotwire.  Be sure to see my tips about getting good deals on Hotwire in “Trip Info” way at the bottom).
2. South America – Izhcayluma – Vilcabamba, Ecuador – 4 star place at backpackers prices with amazing views of the Andean village of Vilcabamba, great food, cheap massage and Reiki (eg. $12 full body massage) and lots of tours organized.

Coolest place I stayed

1. NA – The Elliot House Inn – Charleston, SC
2. SA – Camilo Henriquez 749, Casa 6 – Valdivia, Chile – Crazy, tumble-down mansion (from the 1960 earthquake) that feels like it could fall over any minute with a decorating scheme from the late 1800s.  Totally interesting place though with a friendly live-in manager and two adorable little puffy dogs.

Worst place I stayed (in value and general all-around badness)

1. NA – America’s Best Value Inn (dubbed Hotel Hell by Tori and Stevie) – Santa Maria, CA
2. SA – Even at $9 per night…nothing I stayed in in South America came close to Hotel Hell.

Night view of Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania

“Please Never Make Me Go Back There Award”

1. NA – Santa Maria, CA – see awful hotel above.  Plus there is nothing there.  And by nothing I mean nothing.
2. SA – Puerto Montt, Chile – This is where those crazy ladies kept grabbing me in an attempt to get me to give money to their “gypsy” babies.

Favorite State/Country

1. Vermont/New Hampshire – Tie for these two adorable New England States.  I really love New England in general but these are my favorites.
2. Argentina – I feel almost guilty not picking the others because I liked all four countries I visited in South America.  The edge goes to Argentina though as it’s the only one I could picture myself living in for a long time (and the amazing food and wine helps too).



World War II Memorial Washington, DC



Amy and Xander at the Washington Monument, Washington, DC



Amy, Xander and Alan at home in Arlington, Virginia



Stephanie, Amy and Stacey in Tyson’s Corner, Virginia



Colonial Williamsburg, Williamsburg, Virginia



View of the harbor in Charleston, South Carolina

The Most Overrated Tourist Locale

1. NA – Niagara Falls, Ontario – See my diatribe here for further explanation:  Mile 1755.
2. SA –Quito, Ecuador – In my opinion, Quito is a hell-hole…but I might be biased because I was pickpocketed there.  Still you must go to Quito as it’s a close and cheap entrance point to South America and while there isn’t much to see in Quito itself there are lots of things to see AROUND it (eg. Mitad del Mundo (equator), Otavalo Market, Banos, etc.).

The Most Underrated Location

1. NA – Detroit, MI – Go with a local and make sure you take in a Tiger’s game. 
2. SA – Valdivia, Chile – A very cool , chill college town not normally on the gringo trail.  Definitely worth a stop though.

Best Meal

1. NA – 82 Queen Restaurant – Charleston, SC – Calamari Po’ Boy with Crab Bisque soup.  About 3000 calories in one sitting but totally worth it.
2. SA – Marumbo (or something close) – halfway down the beach in Crucita, Ecuador – Shrimp with an amazing garlic sauce.  Yummy.



Gum Rock at Stone Mountain, Atlanta, Georgia



Tori and Stevie at Moonlight Beach, Encinitas, California



Balboa Park, San Diego, California



Tori and Stevie on the Pacific Coast Highway



Jellyfish in the Monterey Bay Aquarium in Monterey, California

Favorite Spanish Word – faltar (verb) – literally means “to miss” or “to lack” something.  The beauty is in its use in expressions like:

1. “Falta poco.” – literally:  “Little lacks.”  Better English translation:  “There’s only a little bit left.” eg. distance, time, etc.
2. “Falta pagar.” – literally:  “You lack paying.” Better English translation:  “You didn’t pay for that item.” (I heard this one in the supermarket in Buenos Aires)
3. “Falta mucho todavia.” – literally: “Much (time, etc.) lacks yet.” Better English translation: “There’s plenty of time yet.”
4. “Falta el conductor.” – literally: “The driver lacks.”  Better English translation:  “The driver isn’t here yet.”

View of the San Francisco Skyline from Alcatraz Island, San Francisco, California

Word in English I Missed the Most While Learning Spanish – “was” – There are at least 4 Spanish versions of the word “was” to pick from: estaba, estuve, era and fue.  Add in the subjunctive forms (eg. estuviera, etc. ) and it’s enough to make a girl want to slit her wrists.

Golden Gate Bridge, San Francisco, California

Granny Goose, Aunt Marlena and Cousin Sheila at Sheila’s 35th Birthday Surprise Party, Portland, Oregon

Cousin Sheila and Stacey at the party…Portland, Oregon

Stacey’s stepdad Tony and mom Maxine, Pablo, Montana

Stew and Faye (one of my most devoted readers) in Pablo, Montana

Things I Will Miss the Most About South America

1. In Ecuador and Peru – Fresh-squeezed juice – An amazing array of tropical fruits that are always, always fresh-squeezed.  I’m not normally a juice-drinker but fresh-squeezed is amazing.
2. In Chile and Argentina – Cheap, good quality wine – Because so little wine is exported (90% of Argentinian wine remains in the country for consumption) there is little need for preservatives which lead to the inevitable wine headache.  Better yet, most wines from Mendoza are by definition organic as the climate doesn’t encourage plant diseases or insect infestations.
3. In Ecuador and Peru – Friendly People – Chileans and Argentinians are not unfriendly but the Ecuadorians and Peruvians are a happy, friendly bunch despite the extreme poverty common in both countries.
4. Everywhere – cheap prices as compared to the U.S. and Europe.  It was nice to be able to treat myself to an amazing meal every once and a while and not worry about the cost.
5. Everywhere – laundry service – There is nothing better than dropping off all of your nasty, dirty laundry in the morning and picking it up clean and folded in the afternoon…all for the low, low price of $3 (Ecuador) to $10 (Argentina).

Things I Will NOT Miss about South America

1. South American time – Generally runs about an hour behind “real time.”
2. The amount of attention I attracted as a tall, blond gringa – I look forward to blending in a bit here at home.  The attention is sort of flattering but tiresome at the same time.  And if I never hear the annoying hiss that Ecuadorian men do to attract my attention it will be too soon.
3. In Ecuador and Peru –rice – Dear god…everything is served with rice.  And I mean everything…including pasta. 
4. In Ecuador and Peru – andean cheese – This cheesehead was suffering badly as the only thing available that might be construed as cheese is a rubbery, white cheese referred to as “queso andino.”

Sister Lindsay and Aunt Joanie preparing for Granny’s 75th birthday party in Fort Benton, Montana

The Hankins Seven + Granny at the birthday party…Fort Benton, Montana

Missouri River in autumn, Fort Benton, Montana

Things I Will Never Again Take For Granted

1. Hot water, hot water, hot water – Need I say more?
2. The “order” of a westernized country –  Here at home problems are handled in an orderly fashion and there is a procedure for everything.  In Third World Countries you get corruption and police who hit on gringo theft victims (I know 3 different girls this happened to) and a general feeling that you’re fending for yourself.
3. The ability to get change from stores – Sounds weird but it is nearly impossible to pay for things with large bills (or even semi-large bills) anywhere in South America as there is a chronic shortage of change.  I still find myself working out my “change” strategy now that I’m home where it’s no longer necessary to do so.
4. Napkins and papertowels that are actually useful – In Peru and Ecuador napkins resemble a single sheet of one-ply toilet paper and in Argentina they resemble small sheets of wax paper.  Chile stands alone as being the only country with functional napkins.
5. Hot water – Did I mention hot water?

Best Typical Food by Country (South America Only)

1. Ecuador – ceviche – Seafood, fish and vegetables (mostly onion) marinated in lime juice with cilantro and other spices; Humitas – ground corn steamed in corn leaves (kind of like a tamale); chifles – plantains sliced into rounds and fried.  Often to replace potato chips or french fries.
2. Peru – lomo saltado – stir-fried beef with onions, vinegar, ginger, chile, tomatoes and fried potatos served with rice.  Andean trout (trucha in Spanish) – Every bit of trout I had in the Andes was amazing (including in Ecuador).   
3. Chile – all of the seafood – There was amazing seafood to be had in Chile especially mussels (cholgas), hake fish (merluza) and stews of various meats (cazuelas).  Also awesome and a specialty of the island of Chiloe is curanto which is a meat, shellfish and potato stew traditionally cooked in a hole in the ground.
4. Argentina – Sorrentinos – homemade pasta similar to ravioles except traditionally filled with ham and cheese; medialunas (halfmoons in Spanish) – mini croissants glazed with sugar and served for breakfast.

Favorite Moments

1. Roadtrip – The Pittsburgh Pirates game surrounding by the beautiful lit-up city bridges and with old friends from DC and San Diego. 

2. Roadtrip – Boogie-boarding with the kids at Moonlight beach in Encinitas. 

3. Roadtrip – Boat ride from Alcatraz to San Francisco with Tori and Stevie and the amazing skyline of San Francisco, the Bay Bridge and the Golden Gate Bridge in view. 

4. Galapagos Trip – Galapagos, Ecuador – Waking up early with a cup of coffee in hand as a pod of dolphins (around 30) surrounding the boat and swimming along with us.  

5. Inka Trail (Deadwoman’s Pass) – Inka Trail, Peru – Reaching the highest pass on the trail with my sister.

6. Night bus back from Puno – Puno to Arequipa, Peru – After a fun weekend visit to Lake Titicaca I took my first night bus home to Arequipa so I could make it to the orphanage on time the next day.  The bus left at 11pm and a very enormous indigenous woman in traditional dress got on the bus with several very enormous bags of blankets.  I was wondering why she hadn’t put them in the luggage hold below the bus when she started walking around and distributing blankets to everyone on the bus.  That was great, actually, as it is cold, cold, cold in Puno and environs so I appreciated the gesture though assumed I would be expected to tip when she collected them back.  You see, Peruvians have truly perfected the art of extracting money from other people…a tip is expected for nearly everything (including having your picture taken with someone traditionally dressed) and believe me, you know it when a tip is expected.  At the end of the ride, the woman walked around the bus collecting blankets but no tips…a true act of kindness.

7. The Orphanage Part 1 – Arequipa, Peru – About a week after I started volunteering in the orphanage, three new kids showed up:  Victor Angel (age 8), Rosa (age 4) and Julio (age 2).  Despite the fact that the kids were pulled for extreme abuse at the hands of their parents they wanted to go home (as nearly every kid in this situation does).  The first few days passed with Victor Angel struggling to find a way to escape and while his siblings were growing acustomed to the home Victor Angel was still struggling.  One afternoon I was up on the roof alone with some of the older kids (there’s an open play area and the laundry up there) when Victor Angel throws his jacket over the wall to the next door neighbor’s roof and takes off.  I was having a mild heart attack but the surprising and amazing thing was the kids’ reactions.  They were livid.  All of them were saying to Victor Angel “What are you doing?  This is a really good home and we are lucky to be living here so stop trying to escape.”  I nearly started crying.  Whenever someone asks me if working in the orphanage was sad…I always think of these kids and how happy they are to be there.

8. The Orphanage Part 2 – Arequipa, Peru – All too soon it was time for me to depart the orphanage and on my last day I showed up to a less than enthusiastic welcome.  Generally when an adult walks in the room, all of the kids get up and one-by-one greet us with an “Hola” and kiss on the left cheek.  When I walked in on my last day, however, the kids all scattered.  “What’s going on?”  I asked one of the other volunteers.  “They’re wrapping presents,” he said.  Not realizing it was someone’s birthday I asked whose it was.  “No one’s.  They’re wrapping good-bye presents for you.”  Sure enough, these little kids who have absolutely nothing of their own wrapped some of the orphanage’s most prized toys up for my going-away gifts.  I was amazed and humbled…especially when I read the cards and letters they wrote for me several of which are now hanging up in my office. I know the pictures on this post are supposed to all be from the roadtrip, but I can’t help posting this previously unpublished picture of my “gift-opening.”

   

 Last day at the orphanage, Arequipa, Peru

                        Last day at the orphanage, Arequipa, Peru

9.  Cerro Catedral – Bariloche, Argentina –  The views from the top of this ski-hill are amazing and mesmerizing.  With a book and a cup of coffee I was able to wile away nearly two hours.

10.  Dinner with friends – Buenos Aires, Argentina – As many of you know, the last week of my trip I was joined by two friends from England…James (whom I met while traveling in Spain) and Morag.  Together with two new friends from Argentina…Jesse and Mary…the five of us headed out to the Las Canitas area of Buenos Aires for a nice dinner.  It was in that moment that I was reminded that while traveling and while at home…the only thing a person really needs are good friends (or family), good food, good conversation…and a little bit of wine never hurt either. 

That’s it for now.  What’s up next you ask?  Well, I wouldn’t be much of a statistical programmer if I didn’t compile some statistics on this trip so stay tuned for that post…followed by next Friday’s 31st birthday Finale.  Have a good weekend everyone!

Jen and Matt hiking in the mountains near Flathead Lake, Montana



Stacey and Jen on Wild Horse Island, Flathead Lake, Montana



Jen and Matt on Wild Horse Island, Flathead Lake, Montana



(from left) Angie, Erin, Sarah, Sarah, Colette and Stacey at Stacey’s Going Away Outing, Madison, Wisconsin

Tags: 12 - Home, going home, reflections, trip end

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