Nick’s world tour

Next up, is Rotorua. This place is by another big lake, and people visit here as it’s very volcanically active (another eggy town) and is the centre of Maori culture.

I went out to see some big boiling mud pools, a geyser called Lady Knox, and the cheesily named Wai O Tapu Thermal Wonderland.

Not as bad as it sounds, it’s a collection of bubbling craters, brilliantly coloured lakes, steaming pools, sinter terraces and sulphur caves.

The geyser itself erupts daily at 10.15am (with a little prompting from 300g of soap powder, as it’s natural cycle is 48-72 hours would play havoc with the tourist bus schedule!).

Now heavily accustomed to the egg smell, this evening we went out to the Tamaki Village. The evening starts with a canoe full (read coach) of people, one of whom is picked to be the chief. When all the canoes arrive at the Marae (village) the chiefs go forward to be intimitated by the warriors, a peace offering is accepted and we enter the village.

There’re displays of tatooing, weaving and cooking, and then we are invited into the Whernui (big house) for a concert. There’s singing, dancing, waving of sticks and of course a haka: all very enjoyable.

Finally it’s time for the hangi (feast; not to be confused with hongi, the pressing of noses as a welcome).

This is a meal cooked underground in a pit (I now know how to do this, but don’t have a back garden of my own to dig up, any takers?!) and is delicious. As the evening draws to an end we finish with a waiata and whaikorero at the popopoaki (song, speech, closing ceremony).

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