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The world tour moves on…

Wednesday, May 31st, 2006

Well, what a start. It’s been a great ten weeks here. I’ve done such a lot, but covered so little of the country. From the majestic forts of Rajasthan, to the peaks of the greatest mountain range on earth; washing my sins away in the Ganges and the spectacle of the Golden Temple and the Taj Mahal… The FOND memories of the 4.30am bus journeys in the mountains (well it wasn’t all good!) All the people: from the gypsy people who fed me khawa and chapattis in their huts at 3500m in Kashmir, to the guides who adopted us in Rishikesh and the businessman in Mumbai: a bit of a contrast. And of course all you lovely people I’ve shared the journey with: and luckily NO PROFESSIONAL TRAVELLERS*

One thing the Lying Planet (universally accepted as the worst guidebook ever written) got right:

India is a place to expect the unexpected … it isn’t a place your merely see; it’s an invigorating assault on all the senses, an experience impossible to define as it’s so different for everyone … Love it or hate it … will jostle your entire being and no matter where you go, or what you do, it’s a place you will never forget.”

and with so much more to see, so much more I’d like to do in the correct season, I’m sure I’ll be back. Someday.

Besides, in a land of over one billion people, there must be someone who hasn’t dragged me into their holiday photos yet…

As the guidebook melted apart some weeks ago, and the stitching is coming undone, it must be time to move on. Tomorrow morning, I’ll be waking up in Singapore, where it all starts again.

Now if you’ll excuse me, I have to have a final Kingfisher before my taxi in 2 hours. As Geoff Tipps (especially for Craig and Matt the scouse chimp) would say, “three pints of BlueBird.”

* professional traveller is someone who spends 6 weeks in Goa, finds themself, and then decks themself out entirely in tie-dye clothes. White male version will have dread-locks. (Thanks for the definition!)

Mumbai

Wednesday, May 31st, 2006

Well “Go” did go, albeit in a very shocking pink plane. But did it arrive at the domestic or international airports? The international is known as Chhapatri Shivaji, or colonially as Sahar. Whereas the domestic is known as Chhapatri Shivaji, or Santa Cruz. It was supposed to land at the domestic, the sign on the building as we taxied said International, but however it was the domestic airport…. How very confusingly Indian! It took 90 minutes to get to the apparently fashionable district of Colaba, where I was staying, and then a further 45minutes to find my hotel. The driver spoke no English, and couldn’t read a map either… Mumbai is great fun- it’s such a culture clash. Rich and poor. East and west: women in saris drinking beer in bars where Oasis and the Red Hot Chilli Peppers are on the juke box. The streets are nice to walk, leafy with a mixture of colonial and neo-classical buildings. And there are no cows roaming the streets- strangely coincident with beef reappearing on the menus. To the north are the markets and bazaars to remind you that you are still in India; and the grim Chowpatty Beach joins the port. Colaba has the Gateway to India archway, and from here boats leave for Elephanta Island to see the rock temples and carving of a three headed Shiva. Obsessive hawkers sell huge 1m long ballons (why?) and drums. I wandered for a few days, spent 1 hour posting a parcel (though it is quaintly stitched and sealed with candle wax), and had a few beers one lunchtime with a random businessman I got chatting to… By luck of Singapore Airlines choosing to have their office inside a 5 star hotel, I got to see inside the Taj Hotel, supposedly India’s poshest – though I think the doorman didn’t want to let me in! Oh and in a city of sixteen and a half million people, I bumped into two people I’d been in Agra with. As Harry Hill would say, “what are the chances?” I very nearly got my 15 minutes of fame as a Bollywood extra. For the first 2 days I was here, no-one approaches me. Then for the day I am leaving, three people ask me to go to the studio. Talent scouts looking for “heavily perspiring tourist #3” evidently. It’s hot, and humid, and today I got stuck in a 2 hour long pre-monsoonal storm. Must be time to leave.

Moving on one more time

Friday, May 26th, 2006
On Friday we all went our separate ways. In 5 days I'll be on a flight to Singapore, so tonight I head back to Jaipur on an overnight sleeper for one day, before flying down to Mumbai (well it was ... [Continue reading this entry]

Pink, blue and yellow

Thursday, May 25th, 2006
Rajasthan. Every says, "don't go now, it's too hot". Well it was kind of warm, but not uncomfortably so. In Jaipur it was 45 degrees, but as you travelled further into the desert, and south, it became much cooler (well ... [Continue reading this entry]

The Taj … Finally

Monday, May 15th, 2006

About 2 months later than I intended, I was on a bus (having completely given up on Indian Railways) heading down to Agra in Uttar Pradesh. It turned out that this was a tour, and in fact we got taken ... [Continue reading this entry]

Delhi revisited

Sunday, May 14th, 2006

The trip down to Delhi was on a nice banger bus again. I even had to reconstuct the seat before I sat down, still it was more pleasant than the mountain buses, but unfortunately much more oven like.

The plains are ... [Continue reading this entry]

A few more days…

Friday, May 12th, 2006
Well, I did leave Rishikesh eventually. Though it took a few more days to get round to it. Precisely 2 more rafting trips and  a near-death-experience in Rajaji National Park before I bit the bullet and moved south. The rain in ... [Continue reading this entry]

Where now?

Tuesday, May 9th, 2006
I now have exactly three weeks in India. Today I wanted to book trains, flights etc to get to the last few places. However confounded by the busy trains and randomly successful online booking system, today's achievements have included re-arranging ... [Continue reading this entry]

Kauri Pass Trek

Monday, May 8th, 2006

After an evening in the Oasis restaurant on High Bank, we managed only a few hours sleep before departing on the trek. It was a hard drive on very bumpy roads. Most of the way was incredibly hot, until we ... [Continue reading this entry]