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Roma non basta una vita

Friday, September 12th, 2008

Castor. Or Pollux.There’s just something indescribable about this city that captivates me in a way that no other does. It doesn’t matter how many times I come back, I’m always excited when I arrive in Rome, and each time the city seems somehow more intriguing than the last.

I’ve spent about 15 months in Rome over the past seven years, and if I had a checklist of things to do and see, it would only be getting longer. The Caput Mundi continues to reveal more and more of its ancient self as time goes on.

Just in this short visit alone, we were able to do a few things that weren’t possible a year or two ago:

–    Visit the newly excavated underground ruins of Citta del’Aqua, a Neronian era (circa AD 65) apartment complex near the Trevi Fountain.

Frescoes in the House of Augustus on the Palatine Hill–    Go into the newly opened House of Augustus on the Palatine Hill with its restored wall frescoes (pictured right).

–    See the 13 BC Ara Pacis, also newly opened, in a museum near its original location in the early Empire era Campus Martius between the Pantheon and the Mausoleum of Augustus.

Meanwhile, the ongoing Metro Line C project continues to reveal further ancient ruins underneath the city, most notably at the heart of modern Rome in Piazza Venezia. And I was told that the most famous chariot racing stadium of the entire Roman Empire – the Circus Maximus – will soon finally be properly excavated at a cost of €3m.

The only downside on this trip to the Eternal City: sadly, for the first time in its 2600+ year history, it now costs to enter the Roman Forum. (This has also permanently changed the landscape of the expatriate tour guiding industry, rendering it impossible to run tours the way we did from 2001-04, but that’s another story.)

Against this backdrop of a Rome that stands the test of time, Wendy and I wandered endlessly and aimlessly around the centro storico for a few days, eating fabulous food and hatching schemes about when and how we can return.

On Wednesday, with those thoughts fresh in our minds, we put on our backpacks, followed Constantine the Great, and headed east.

Ruins, Elephants, and 4000 Islands

Tuesday, December 11th, 2007

My apologies for not posting recently…

Well, after leaving Kong Lor Cave we headed to the very south of Laos, where there were a few things we wanted to do. We’ve been putting off any kind of elephant trek for a while now because we thought there was a place in southern Laos that offered a less touristy and more authentic experience than doing it around Chiang Mai or Luang Prabang. In this we were partially right…

Ban Kiet Ngong is a small village about 10km off the main road heading south from Pakse. Not many independent travellers make it here (we didn’t see any), but minivan tours are starting to come to the village these days. The village is home to a number of working elephants, some of which are now taking tourists around rather than dragging logs. We stayed the night with a local family in a homestay (they spoke fewer words of English than we did of Laos, though, so it was hard to really gain much from this experience) and the next morning rode in a basket on top of one of the village elephants to the archaeological site of Phou Asa, a jungle fortress of which there is not much remaining – just a few jagged, slate-like stone towers. Still, it was a nice experience and we had the ruins to ourselves until climbing back on the elephant and heading back (a solitude that we appreciate even more now that we’re in Angkor).

After leaving the elephant village, we went to see the ruins of Wat Phou, the most celebrated Khmer ruins that exist outside of modern-day Cambodia. The place was certainly very atmospheric and we did enjoy it, though in hindsight a conversation we had with an Englishman before going summed it up almost perfectly:

Us: Is Wat Phou impressive?
Him: Have you been to Angkor?
Us: No.
Him: Then yes.

The last place of interest en route to Cambodia is the 4,000 islands, situated in the middle of the mighty Mekong, which expands to 14km wide at this point. We spent a night on two different islands, Don Khong and Don Deht, and while the latter was one of those ‘backpacker hangouts’ that we usually don’t tend to like much because people just lie around and do nothing, we took walks around both islands and enjoyed it enough.

From there it took us a day-and-a-half on mostly dreadfully organised ‘private’ transport (and rather more organised public transport) to cross the Cambodian border and get all the way to Siam Reap, during which the phrases ‘I miss Laos’ and ‘I wish we were still in Laos’ were uttered with a fair degree of frequency. But those thoughts soon vanished as we realised how close we had come to the single as-yet-unseen historical site that we wanted to visit most in the world…

Walking around Sukothai

Saturday, October 27th, 2007

Another day, another set of Thai ruins. This time we're in Sukothai, a more popular - and more impressive - insight into Thai history and culture than Ayutthaya.

This morning we rode in the back of a pick-up truck ... [Continue reading this entry]