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Life in the 21st arrondissement

Friday, May 21st, 2010

Since we’ve been living together in Geneva for nearly three months, it’s probably about time I posted an update on what life is like here and what we get up to.

To start with, we are both really enjoying ourselves and our new European life after a year-and-a-half of virtually non-stop travel in Asia and South America. As a city, Geneva has nothing on Rome or Paris (despite the Parisian reference in its nickname cited above), but it’s brilliantly located near the Alps and the Jura, as a gateway to Lake Geneva and beyond to France, and it’s smack bang in the middle of Western Europe. Many people label Geneva as ‘nice but boring’, but we don’t see it that way at all and are very content here in such an international city.

We live in Paquis, which is a supposedly seedy area of the city but in reality is perfectly fine, at least in the part of Paquis that we live in. Our apartment is on a pedestrian-only street, just 1.5 blocks from Lake Geneva, the largest lake in Western Europe, and half a block from a nice square with a fountain and some restaurants. From Paquis we are walking distance from everywhere of interest in the city, so that’s how we get around – it takes Wendy about 30 minutes to the Palace of Nations each day and it takes me about 12 minutes to walk to school.

Our passion to experience and discover new places still burns brightly, so we spend our weekends exploring Switzerland if the weather’s fine. So far we’ve enjoyed four-day weekends in both Ticino (the Italian-speaking part of the country) and German-speaking Central Switzerland; a castle-spotting weekend away in Thun and Spiez in the German part; and quite a few day trips to the areas around Lake Geneva in French-speaking Switzerland (‘Suisse Romande’ – literally Roman Switzerland, which I thought was quite a nice touch for us). There’s another public holiday next Monday, so this weekend we’re going to German-speaking Northeastern Switzerland to visit the famous medieval library in St. Gallen and a few other places of interest.

When we have free time in Geneva itself, we spend it walking and rollerblading/skating around the lake a fair bit, trying different restaurants, hanging out with a nice group of friends we’ve made here, reading, working on languages and watching (ice) hockey. Having spent the 2010 Olympic hockey tournament living with two Canadians in Whistler, I got a bit hooked on the sport and that carried over when I came here as the Swiss league playoffs were on and our local team, Genève-Servette, made it all the way to Game 7 of the finals before losing to Bern. We went to a couple of games including the hugely exciting Game 6 of the finals, and then we watched all of Switzerland’s games in the World Championships on TV until their elimination yesterday. I’m also following the NHL playoffs and gladly noting that the team I arbitrarily picked as my favourite three months ago, the Montreal Canadiens, are suddenly doing very well.

As for keeping myself busy while Wendy is at work, I’m going to French class at an excellent school for three hours each afternoon during the week and enjoying it quite a lot. With my background in other romance languages, French was pretty easy for me to pick up (relatively speaking), and in two months of classes I’ve advanced to a level that is supposed to take 10 months to reach. So I’m pretty delighted with that, even though not everything has sunk in yet and I’m still fearful of speaking outside the classroom and the apartment.

As for our future, we are hoping to find out soon if Wendy will be offered a permanent UN posting at this time since there are a couple of spots available here in Geneva. If so, our move will be ‘official’ and we’ll finally settle down after all these years of travel (though, naturally, we’re hoping to squeeze in a few more months of wanderings between the end of her freelance contract and the start of her permanent one). If not, then we’ll continue to work around her freelance contracts with 2-3 month trips here and there, which isn’t half bad either. So it’s basically a win-win situation, one that we’re very fortunate to be in.

In the more immediate future, I’m heading to Croatia/Bosnia/Montenegro for a couple of weeks next weekend for a visa run which I’m quite looking forward to, since I have never been to the Balkans despite wanting to go for years. Then on my way back to Geneva we’ll meet up in Rome for our annual visit to the Eternal City. As always, we can’t wait…

Arrival in Geneva

Tuesday, March 9th, 2010

It’s funny how after a month of living in Whistler and barely even considering hitting the slopes, it only took three days in Geneva before I was skiing in the Swiss Alps. Or the French Alps. It was a bit confusing actually*, since we were literally right on the border. I think we bought lift passes in Switzerland and skiied in France. Or the other way around.

It was the first time I had been on skis since I was five, when at one point I took them off and left them at the bottom of the chairlift (believing that’s what someone had instructed me to do) and proceeded to take the chairlift to the top of the slope without skis. Twenty-five years later, I didn’t fall over once (except when I took a semi-disastrous wrong turn into the forest on the last run of the day, but let’s not talk about that), and my instructor told me I was “full of it” when I said that I had never skiied before, save the aforementioned left-my-skis-at-the-bottom-of-the-chairlift debacle.

Having snowboarded a few times between the ages of 18-21 and enjoying it more or less but not really understanding what all the fuss was about (hence my absence from the Whistler slopes), I was a bit skeptical of how the day would unfold, but I have to say that I loved (nearly) every minute of it. I’m very keen to go back as soon as my ankle rashes from the ski boats heal, and maybe we can go two or three more times until the season finishes at the end of April.

Meanwhile, I have spent nearly a week settling in here in Geneva while Wendy earns a living for both of us as an ultra-talented United Nations translator. I’ve discovered that I quite like being a house husband and that I know more French than I thought I did (pending the results of the language school placement test I just took). And, of course, despite the cold and wind, there’s something special about simply being in Europe, especially after five weeks in North America.

So for now, we’re happy to be back together and living what is perhaps a preview of the permanent life we will someday lead. But, as always, nothing is certain and anything can happen…

* Very confusing, since apparently we were not in the Alps at all but the Jura. It’s hard to know with all these mountains surrounding you.

Putting our backpacks down

Friday, February 5th, 2010

A few days can sometimes seem like an eternity.

Just last week, we were happily wandering down the colonial streets of Colonia as ‘compulsive travellers’ without a worry in the world. Now it seems like months ago.

We returned ... [Continue reading this entry]