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Moments like this…

Tuesday, December 9th, 2008

Sealdah train station, Calcutta, 6:20am this morning: Forty-eight hours after waking up in a 23-house village with no roads in Sikkim, we are dumped in the middle of the second largest city in India, notorious for its slums and pavement-dwellers and for being the last bastion on earth of the human-powered rickshaw. With the auto-rickshaws from the station grossly overcharging, we decided to walk with our packs the 3km or so to the guesthouse area. On the way, as we walked down an alley in the Muslim area of town, not realising that it was the middle of the Eid holiday following the hajj to Mecca, we were treated to an extraordinary dawn sight: with the interior of a nearby mosque full, dozens of Muslim worshippers – fathers and sons – dressed in their best shalwar kameez and skull hats laid out their prayer mats onto the street and began praying right in front of us. With bleary eyes, we walked past and marvelled at how India is always able to astonish us, even after all this time. It’s moments like this that make India worth it.

Prayers

Then again, you never really know… 

Eid Mubarak

Saturday, December 30th, 2006

Well, today is the first day of Eid, the multi-day Muslim holiday that occurs twice a year – once after Ramadan, and the other (this one) after the hajj to Mecca.

Eid is not turning out to be to a great time to be in Sana’a, as almost everything is closed and much of the population have gone back to their villages to visit their families for the holiday. I’m surprised that we even found an open Internet cafe. We had hoped to visit the national museum today but it’s closed, so we’re not sure what to do with ourselves! Tomorrow we’ll try to get out of the city again.

Anyway, some Eid observations:

It is tradition for Muslim families to buy a live sheep, goat or cow and have it slaughtered in your yard according to the halal practice. We have seen a few places in Sana’a with livestock being held on the side of a road next to a butcher’s shop in preparation for Eid. In fact, we’ve been told that even when it’s not Eid, butchers in Sana’a don’t have fridges and all meat is slaughtered and sold fresh, according to demand.

On a brighter note, it is tradition for Muslims to buy new clothes (or receive them as gifts) for Eid, so this morning everyone in Sana’a is immaculately dressed. The men have new, shining thobes and the little girls all have beautiful coloured dresses and henna tattoos on their hands and arms.

Anyway, that’s all for today. We’re hoping to go back to Kawkaban tomorrow and use it as a base to visit some towns we haven’t seen yet, and Wendy might be able to go to a wedding there on Tuesday, insha’allah.