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Halong Bay … twice

Wednesday, January 2nd, 2008

After taking an all-night bus from Hue to Hanoi a few nights ago, we were suddenly hit with the realisation of being in north Vietnam as the temperatures were the coldest of our trip so far and had us quickly rummaging through our bags to find our RWC jackets that were stashed at the very bottom. We stayed in Hanoi only long enough to get some sleep and have a little poke around the old quarter before moving on, as we’ll be back there again once or twice more as we work our way around the north.

We took a train to Haiphong and a ferry to Cat Ba, a nice town (but full of rather ugly hotel high rises) with a picturesque harbour at the edge of Halong Bay, perhaps the most famed of Vietnam’s World Heritage sites. Halong Bay (and one or two surrounding bays) feature hundreds of limestone karsts rising out of the green water – sort of like Laos scenery but with the bay adding a new dimesnion to it.

On New Year’s Eve, we took a one-day boat trip out on the bay. The scenery was great … but it was extremely cold and windy on the boat (we had blankets wrapped around us and were still very cold) and the day was completely overcast, which made the surroundings seem less impressive. So overall we were a bit disappointed as we just didn’t enjoy it as much as we should have, simply because of the weather.

We woke up late on New Year’s Day to find glorious sunshine coming through our window. We had planned to leave, but checked the weather on the internet just in case, and since sun was forecast for the next day too, we delayed our departure and booked the same boat trip for the second time on Halong Bay. Yesterday was a fine day as forecast and we had a really great day on the boat, and can report that Halong Bay truly is a very beautiful place, and that it was worth paying US$30 to do exactly the same thing we’d already done two days earlier! On the boat we met a nice Aussie guy named Steve who is a ‘compulsive traveller’ like we are and has been to a few of the same places we have (as well as a few that we haven’t!).

So after four days in Cat Ba, we’re leaving for Hanoi this afternoon and if all goes well we’ll be able to get a connecting train to Sapa in the mountainous northwest of Vietnam, where we’ll stay for a few days.

Christmas in Vietnam

Friday, December 28th, 2007

A few days ago we arrived in Hoi An, a delightful small colonial town in central Vietnam at a good time for two events: the full moon of Dec. 23, and Christmas.

Each full moon night the street lights in the old part of Hoi An are switched off and the town is lit only by Chinese lanterns that hang from restaurants, shops and houses. There is also live traditional music and entertainment, and candles sent adrift down the river complete the ambience. It’s a lovely time to stroll around town and we really enjoyed it.

Hoi An isn’t as ‘into’ Christmas as Ho Chi Minh City is (but I suspect in Ho Chi Minh, the economic capital of Vietnam, Christmas is more about capitalism than Christianity; seeing Christmas decorations there reminded me of seeing them in the shopping malls of conservative Muslim Qatar), but Hoi An has probably the best food in the country, and that was good enough for me. We had a 7-course seafood feast for Christmas lunch – White Rose (shrimp wrapped in a type of rice paper), Fried Wantons, Shrimp Spring Rolls, Calamari Fried Noodles, Sweet and Sour Shrimp, Grilled Fish in Banana Leaves, and Fruit Salad for desert, all topped off by a couple of fruit cocktails … and it only cost us US$12.50 for the lot. Since we’ve had Christmases in places like Yemen and Burma before, this was actually quite a good one by our recent standards.

Yesterday we left Hoi An after four days and are now a little further north in Hue, famous for its 19th century imperial city and emperors’ tombs. The city is not nearly as nice as Hoi An because it’s much bigger and mostly devoid of French colonial architecture, but the sites have been interesting enough – today we cycled about 30km in our explorations of the tombs outside the city.

Tonight we’re taking the bus to the capital Hanoi, and we’ll hopefully be able to explore north Vietnam for the next 10 days or so.

Impressions of Vietnam

Monday, December 24th, 2007
With Laos and Cambodia's Angkor temples being the focus of this trip in Southeast Asia, we arrived in Vietnam a week ago without having really given the country much thought. I'd sort of forgotten how much of this country's modern ... [Continue reading this entry]

Cycling around Angkor

Wednesday, December 12th, 2007

The incomparable Ted Chang, who I think has now seen every place among the 21 finalists for the ‘New 7 Wonders’ competition held earlier this year, says the Angkor temples of Cambodia top the lot – the Pyramids, the ... [Continue reading this entry]

Ruins, Elephants, and 4000 Islands

Tuesday, December 11th, 2007

My apologies for not posting recently...

Well, after leaving Kong Lor Cave we headed to the very south of Laos, where there were a few things we wanted to do. We’ve been putting off any kind of elephant trek ... [Continue reading this entry]

Majestic Kong Lor Cave

Friday, November 30th, 2007

Every village in Laos has a cave near it, or so it seems. Some have Buddhas in them, others have beds and offices and emergency rooms, and others not much at all. So after a while, you sort of ... [Continue reading this entry]

A dawn festival

Saturday, November 24th, 2007

After two nights in Phonsavanh for the Plain of Jars and three in Vang Vieng enjoying the scenery but otherwise avoiding the usual scene there - you can’t imagine how bizarre and weird it is to walk down a ... [Continue reading this entry]

Off the track in eastern Laos

Saturday, November 17th, 2007

A week or so ago we decided that we would visit the east of Laos, which is quite remote and not usually visited by foreign travelers. Since there’s a pretty well-worn path that goes through Vang Vieng, Luang Prabang ... [Continue reading this entry]

Village Life

Friday, November 16th, 2007

After leaving Luang Prabang, we headed north via songthaew (a sort of pick-up truck that constitutes most of the land-based public transport in Laos) and boat to the village of Muang Ngoi, which was a nice place to relax ... [Continue reading this entry]

The prettiest city in Asia

Friday, November 9th, 2007

Waterfall Luang Prabang is just that. It’s hardly even a city – just a rural town really, and not a large one at that, but it’s peaceful, attractive, and has much to ... [Continue reading this entry]