Canada to Patagonia at a Worrying Age

A quick word on the journey here. As you might expect, the bus from Copacabana was suitably blessed prior to the trip, but once out of the valley, we stopped to buy some gladioli as extra insurance. Good thinking, obviously, but I didn’t realise it was in order to prevent the sodding thing sinking. For it turned out we had to cross the lake (by the home of the Bolivian navy), by a boat that had seen many, many better days.

There is a sign at the crossing saying “Bolivia demands to the world a sovereign right from an exit to the sea.” Or as a local mag has “Long time, no sea.” This all relates to the War of the Pacific of 1879-84. I’ll bore you senseless on it sometime, if you want. In the meantime, write to your MP (I can’t).

Onto the scam. La Paz is a great city – sort of like Rome 20 years ago, and I’ve so far enjoyed my stay here. However today I met Paula from Ecuador who, like me, was looking for the Archaeological Museum. We set off together, only to be stopped by a gentleman asking if we spoke Spanish or English. Between us we spoke both, very useful when he produced his plain-clothes policeman identity card that I presume his 5-year-old grandson had put together. I was aware of this scam and told him where to go, pulling Paula away from him. The idea is that he is investigating counterfeit money and needs to examine your cash and your passport (keeping both until ‘later’).

Paula thanked me and went on her way, and it was only after she’d gone that I realised she was part of it. If I hadn’t reacted so quickly she would have produced her documents and money first (as a ‘foreigner’), with me expected to follow. Little minx!

Anyway, I still haven’t met the president, although I know his back in the city. But I have met one of the shoeshine boys who hide their faces (supposedly out of shame) while they earn money for their education. This picture cost me 2 Bolivianos (I didn’t need my shoes shining today). Picture won’t load – will try another day.

In case I don’t post tomorrow – Happy 50th Paul! You don’t look a day over 45.

PS – Correct Flickr link – http://www.flickr.com/photos/28108075@N00/

Had a long rambling post prepared, but it really needs a good edit, so here´s a quick update.

Machu Picchu involved the usual 5am start – a minimum requirement in South America. Tomorrow I´m up at 6 to go to Bolivia, so that´s a lie-in.

Train to MP amazing etc etc. Town of Aguas Calientes great. Chuffed to get a place with bathroom for a fiver a night. Only later did it become clear it was the railway station (they have two in a town of 1000 souls). You could say it was noisy.

Machu Picchu phenomenal, as you might expect. Up at 0630 to visit it. Cloudy first hour, then hot sun at 2500m. All glorious (the site, the eagles, the llama fight) apart from sunstroke and nasty insect bite. Neither too serious. Peruvian doctor was determined to give me an injection. I was against this idea. Turns out the anti-inflammatory cream was all that was needed, although my nose remains a shining beacon to the world.

Couple more days in Cusco – sort of recovering. Now in Puno after most fantastic railway journey in world. Original post wondered how many more experiences in one trip I could manage. Keep trying I suppose. Hope to get two weeks in one place in the nearish future – perhaps on the coast of Chile. However, I want to get involved with President Morales inauguration first, if that´s possible. Any tips scoured from the internet or elsewhere much appreciated (just discovered 22 Jan – couldn´t be better, but still need advice on parties, street demos etc.).

[Just found this – sounds like the one… “Additionally, there will be another, but this time more symbolic, ceremony. This ceremony will take place on the 21 of January and it will be in the town of Tiwanaku, El Altiplano. It will be here where Morales will be taking “real power”. He will be invested with a traditional altiplanic authority poncho (the highest there is), the authority staff and the whip. The whip is a symbol of punishment to those who do not behave in a communal way and disrupt the order. In other words, it seems he’ll be made king of the altiplano indians. It sure seems that way.”] I have an authority whip myself from my recent deification, you know.

Final note to the many contributors. I really appreciate your input. Thank you and keep up the good (although occasionally insulting) work. To those who visit (I can see you looking) and say nought – please join in. If my MP wants to leave a note when he gets evicted, so much the better. This is the way to connect with the interweb generation, George!