Bangkok and Ayutthaya
February 22-26
Many other travelers told us that Thailand would seem like a vacation from our “big trip.” It’s true in many ways. It’s definitely the easiest country we’ve traveled in in a while. The people are super friendly and helpful. The bathrooms are clean and food of all varieties is abundant. We’ve encountered a few touts and a few aggressive salesman, but they understand “no thank you.” There are numerous affordable tours and classes from hill tribe trekking to thai massage, everything organized for you.
Our first stop after the islands was Bangkok, the infamous bustling Asian capital. Maybe it was bad timing or the sweltering heat or just the shock of a big city, but our first couple of days in Bangkok were frustrating and we were kicking ourselves for not staying on the beach a couple of extra days. We arrived at 5 AM after a short night on an over air-conditioned bus; the bus dropped us near Koh San Road, which is the famous backpackers road featured in “The Beach” where you can find everything your heart desires anytime day or night. We decided to stay in another area about 20 minutes away by foot, Thewet, near the river. A German backpacker had recommended us a nice guesthouse there. At 5AM the city was already awake, and it was hot and muggy, a clear indication that there was no respite from the heat. By the time we found the guesthouse, we were both soaking in sweat and the room I had reserved was not available. We spent what seemed like hours (but was probably only 20 minutes) walking from place to place, waking up guesthouse owners, looking for a free room. The Thais are not as friendly at 5 in the morning. Finally, we found a suitable place, took a cold shower and went back to bed. We started the day fresh a couple of hours later; we had a few administrative things to take care of…first, our Vietnam visa. Like I said before, everything in Thailand is organized for you, and for a small extra charge, our guesthouse took our passports to the Vietnam embassy to secure our visa. One thing checked off the list.
Next, to start exploring this vast city. We were staying next to the river, which is a main thoroughfare itself, with a busy ferry system and longtail boats that can be hired like a taxi to take you directly to your destination. From the river you get a good impression of how Bangkok is a big contrast between ancient and modern. To reach the pier, we had to walk through the lively (and smelly) fish and vegetable market where hawkers sold everthing from fresh herbs to turtles used in Chinese medicine. The ferries themselves held from about 50-150 people, usually with special areas reserved for Buddhist monks. The ride from Tha Thewet (Thewet Pier) to Tha Chang, where you got off for the national palace and Wat Pho (a wat is a Buddhist temple) took about 30 minutes, and in this time you passed old wooden houses practically falling into the river, high rise hotels, numerous wats, men bathing, restaurants and shopping centers. A feast for the eyes but not the lungs, as the air pollution was overwhelming. Our guide book recommended taking a longtail boat and exploring the canals near Tha Chang. When we arrived, we found the prices exorbitant (900 baht per hour- which is a European price- we paid 500 baht for a full day snorkel tour with lunch in the south.) Unable to find anyone who would give us a reasonable price, we left dejected and went to the air-conditioned tourist office to come up with a plan B for our first day. We bought a bus map and decided to make our way across town to visit the Jim Thompson House. Jim Thompson was an American who resettled in Thailand in the beginning of the 20th century. He saw a great opportunity in the exportation of Thai silk, and it seemed that he was also quite taken with Thai culture and Buddhism. He made a lot of money, reviving the silk industry, and had a traditional Thai house built; actually he combined six beautiful teak buildings, producing a beautiful mansion. Jim Thompson disappeared while traveling in the Cameron Highlands (Malaysia) in 1967, and after the Jim Thompson Foundation was created. Proceeds from the foundation go towards cultural projects in Thailand. The house was beautiful and restored our enthusiasm for sightseeing (a bit.) We took the ultra-modern skytrain back to the pier and caught a ferry back to our guesthouse. We were both exhausted, but neither of us wanted to spend the evening staring at the walls of our windowless hotel room. We ventured towards Koh San road to find something to eat. We were delighted with the hawker stalls, and had a mish mosh meal of grilled chicken, sausages, spring rolls, fresh pineapple and beer, all from different places.
TO BE CONTINUED…I’m way behind finishing this post, so I’m going to publish it, but check back soon for more about Bangkok.
Tags: BIG TRIP 2005-2006, In English 2005-2006, Thailand
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