BootsnAll Travel Network



Archive for August, 2011

« Home

Glacier National Park Backcountry Adventure (2 of 3)

Monday, August 22nd, 2011

August 1st-August 2nd

We had the double task of packing up our campsite and packing our backpacks for the overnight trek when we woke up plus we realized after studying the map that we had a long drive ahead of us to get to the trailhead, so we tried to get an early start. The road to Polebridge was even more primitive than we expected and it took us about an hour and a half. We followed the mountain range with its snow-capped peaks and passed through an area that had been very heavily damaged by a recent forest fire. We passed the ranger’s station and took a rough dirt road towards Logging Creek, the start of our trek. We couldn’t have gone any further if we wanted because the road was washed out from there. If we were looking for isolation, we had found it.

We started the hike in around 11:30. The first part of the trail passed through an area that had been affected by the same forest fire we saw from the road- a lot of the trees were down giving us a view of the river below. Then we passed through a huge meadow of wild flowers. We were both on alert for bears clapping our hands loudly whenever we came around a corner or up a blind hill. About five miles in we came to the first primitive campground (the half-way point between ours and the trailhead.) We still hadn’t stopped for lunch and this seem to be a suitable place, so we stopped in the camping area next to Logging Lake for bite to eat. From there, most of the trail was through the forest through some dense brush. We could tell that it hadn’t been used that much as we pushed our way through shrubbery, all the while making as much noise as we could to scare off hungry bears. Finally we came to a small stream crossing and arrived at our campground. There were two guys from Texas already there collecting wood for a campfire. We hung our food from a 20 foot pole (out of reach of bears) before finding our site. I washed the mud off my legs in the lake and rested my aching feet before setting up the tent. We were joined by a group of Boy Scouts from Minnesota, so in the end this isolated trek turned out to be pretty popular. In the Glacier NP primitive campgrounds, there is a communal food preparation area away from the tent areas- they make every effort possible to keep bears away from sleeping hikers- making it easy to meet people. During dinner and breakfast, we had a chance to talk to the other trekkers.

We were a little bit disappointed with the scenery on this trek and wanted to explore other areas of the park, so we got an early start back the next morning. We stopped near the lake for a snack and met some people on horseback. We hadn’t seen much wildlife, and no bears up to this point, but we were still making noise. Fabien suddenly stopped in front of me. “Shit, it’s a bear.” I didn’t really understand at first. “Let’s go. It’s a bear and it’s big.” The whole time I wasn’t sure what was going on. The bear was scared off into the bushes. I never saw the bear, but Fabien claims it was the biggest one he’s ever seen. I think it made the trek worth it to him. On the way out, we passed a French family trekking in, our neighbors from another campground and then another group of guys from Texas. The path must have gotten more use in those two days than the whole year. We got back to our car, dusty and hungry. We drove up the road a little bit and found a place to have lunch by a lake. Then we stopped at the ranger station to report our bear encounter.  On the way back there was a small traffic jam- people stopped to see a black bear near the side of the road. We ended up going back to our cozy campground in West Glacier- a shower sounded good.

Posted from Custer State Park, South Dakota

Destination: Glacier National Park, Montana (1 of 3)

Monday, August 22nd, 2011

July 30th– July 31st

The drive from Idaho across the Montana border towards Glacier National Park was spectacular. Most of the drive was on a two lane country road with a speed limit of 70mph (apparently, Montana didn’t actually post speed limits until recently after pressure from the federal government.) We drove through national forest and stopped to picnic next to a river that was popular with fly fishermen. We stopped off for a short hike that took us to a view of impressive waterfalls and a suspension bridge. We stocked up on groceries and gas in Kalispell. By the time we reached West Glacier, one of the gateway towns to Glacier National Park, we had had a full day of sightseeing without even expecting it.

We had half forgotten it was Saturday and by the time we arrived in the late afternoon, all of the park campgrounds were full. We found a cozy private campground in West Glacier with hot showers, laundry and live music at the café. I convinced Fabien to stay two nights there while we got our feel for the park.

The weather was warm and sunny and we were back in the outdoor rhythm. Our first stop the next morning was at the Backcountry Office to see about getting a permit to do some backpacking in the Glacier backcountry. Demand was high and the late snow melt-off was flooding some of the trails, so our choice was limited. A ranger recommended that we do a one-night trek in the Polebridge area in the north of the park. We followed his advice. After we were issued a permit for the next day, we had to watch a disturbing/yet-entertaining video about what to do in case of a bear attack- Glacier is home to both black and grizzly bears. We left the office on high alert for bears and started our visit of the park.

We drove down to the Apgar Visitor Center and village situated next to the enormous, beautiful lake McDonald. There were some spectacular views from the shore, but it felt like a zoo, crowded with tourists. We caught the park shuttle that followed the famous “Going-to-the-Sun Road” to Avalanche Creek. There was a small interpretive trail at the shuttle stop and then a longer trail up to Avalanche Lake. It was a popular, crowded trail, but very scenic. The first part followed the raging creek before breaking off into forest. The lake was in a magical setting, surrounding by mountains with waterfalls fed by glaciers running off in every direction. We found a solitary piece of beach and had our lunch. We ended up helping a lady fix her hiking boot- the sole had come loose while she was hiking, so we helped her cut a piece of string from her pack to the sole back on. We hiked back and caught the shuttle to the Lake Mcdonald Lodge where we had an ice cream by the lake. On the way back to our campground, we stopped off an outdoor shop to by a new filter for our water purifier (a necessity for backpacking) and ran into the lady from the hike buying new boots. We took it easy that evening in anticipation of the 10-mile hike the next morning.

Posted from Custer State Park, South Dakota

Round Lake State Park, Idaho

Friday, August 19th, 2011
July 29th -30th We made a brief overnight stop in the Idaho Panhandle on our way to Glacier National Park in Montana. Since we were traveling over a weekend, we made a reservation in the only available campsite we could find ... [Continue reading this entry]

Road to Spokane

Friday, August 19th, 2011
July 29th As we left the Cascade Range, the landscape became flatter and more arid. The temperature also increased by about 10-15 degrees. We decided to break up the drive through eastern Washington with a stop at Grand Coulee Dam, another ... [Continue reading this entry]

The North Cascades Highway

Friday, August 19th, 2011
July 28th We were rewarded with a perfect day for driving the North Cascades Highway. It was a crisp day with sunny blue skies. Our first stop was at a trout hatchery where we watched women clipping the fins of young ... [Continue reading this entry]

Whidbey Island and San Juan Island (Puget Sound, Washington)

Friday, August 19th, 2011
July 25th-July 27th After returning to the U.S. from Vancouver, we weren’t quite finished visiting Washington. We decided to spend a couple of days near Anacortes (the gateway to the San Juan Islands) discovering the Puget Sound area.  We set up ... [Continue reading this entry]

Vancouver, British Columbia

Friday, August 19th, 2011
July 23rd-July 25th We made a quick stop at the gas station (despite the augmenting prices in the U.S., it’s still cheaper than in Canada) before we took the road for the border. After a small queue and a few questions, ... [Continue reading this entry]

6 août : ranch, mine et exploration, quasiment tous les éléments de la conquête de l’ouest

Tuesday, August 9th, 2011
Encore une journée qui promet d'être chargée aujourd'hui et surtout encore un démontage / remontage de tente en perspective. Le fait que l'état est énorme nous empêche de pouvoir nous poser quelques jours quelque part et de rayonner autour : ... [Continue reading this entry]

5 août : sur les traces de la conquête de l’ouest

Tuesday, August 9th, 2011
Alors qu'il faisait très chaud hier, ce matin il fait un peu froid et surtout c'est orageux. Nous finissons rapidement la route menant à Great Falls, une grande ville du Montana (c'est à dire une petite ville à l'échelle américaine), ... [Continue reading this entry]

4 août : fin de notre périple dans le parc avec 15km de randonnée en plus

Tuesday, August 9th, 2011
Ce matin, rebelotte, nous plions une nouvelle fois la tente (un peu moins tôt que la veille tout de même) et repartons. Cette fois, nous allons vers le sud du parc . Two Medicine. Encore une fois, ce n'est pas ... [Continue reading this entry]