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Tie a string

Saturday, October 1st, 2005

“…and I’ll tie a string around my finger so I don’t forget not to get so tied up to the things that I regret.” – Clem Snide, Summer

So I’m thinking from now on, I’ll start my blogs with a quote or a line from a song or something. How do you feel about that? Oh, what do I care how you feel, it’s my blog, and I’ll use all the cheesy quality writing infractions I wish.

So here I am in Budapest. “Budapest?” you ask. “Yes,” I say. I went to Munich from 7am to 12am but seeing as how hostel prices are currently double what I paid in March, I booked an overnight for Vienna. “So,” you ask wisely, “why are you not in Vienna?” “Well,” I reply, becoming somewhat agitated with all of your nosey questions, “I was tired, so I slept on the train through Vienna all the way to Budapest.” And that’s how the former soviet block cookie crumbles. I really like it here. For one, I have found an internet cafe which charges less than a euro for an hour, which is outstanding. Furthermore, the keyboard is an english one, so no more hunting out apostrophes. ‘ See? ‘ Isn’t that nice? ‘ ‘ ‘ ‘ ‘ ‘ ‘ ‘ ‘ ‘ I’m so happy. I enjoy this city so much, I have booked 3 nights here and am contemplating booking a 4th. This really says something considering the most I’ve stayed anywhere else is 2. That’s committment. Actually, in all honesty, I haven’t seen as much of the city as I’d like, at least not above ground. But everything here is very cheap, and I had to do laundry and other time consuming things, like sleeping, so I needed a place where I could just relax for a while. Tonight, I’m planning on gourging myself at a Mongolian BBQ with an Aussie and a Canadian I met at the hostel, though I can’t say I’d mind if the Canadian changed his mind, I think he has the Black Lung. But I digress. I should tell about yesterday and my new passion, caving. I arrived at the hostel at noon and was still tired, so I slept for another few hours, but then, I signed up for a tour of the caving system below Budapest. My experience in the past has been these guided tours through really big holes underground, but that was about it. ‘Look at the stalagtites. Look at the stalagmites. Little girl, please stop climbing on that.’ That sort of thing. So when I signed up for this, I sort of expected something of the like, but the people at the hostel said it was a really good experience and the overalls and helmets were incluced in the price. Overalls and helmets? Ok, that sounds a bit more my speed. So into the caves I go. There’s an engaged couple in the group that likes me and wants me to stay in front of them, behind the guide, which I don’t mind. I like to play leader, you bump your head more, but there’s no one telling you what to do next, you have to figure it out.

Everyone’s sort of unsure what awaits them around the next dimly lit corner, and all I can do is follow the guide, trying to contort my body the way that he does, on to the next big opening. I wait for the rest of the group to scramble through, and there you all sit together, wondering if next, you to proceed through a large dark hole a few feet away. Instead, your guide points to a hole the size of your head and in his deep Hungarian accent says, “We go this way”.

I am not a claustrophobic person. I don’t mind the dark. But there is a moment when you are crawling on your stomach, straining your arms because you can’t bend your legs to push off; you don’t know how much further you have to go because you can’t look ahead, the passage is too narrow to hold your head anyway but sideways. In that moment, you remember where you are. 60 meters below the earths surface, solid rock above you, solid rock below. Well, from here it looks solid, but you know it isn’t. You know that here and there are caverns, spaces created by earthquakes, loose rocks and boulders, and above all, cracks, running along this “solid rock” that could at any moment make it not so. You feel suddenly, the weight of all that earth falling in before you can yell and remember that nature and its forces have never laid down their arms to the protests or pleadings of man. Yet there you are, alone now because your guide is experienced and nimble and has disappeared before your very eyes. Is this the way? How could this possibly be the way a body is meant to go? At this moment, I have no control. Then you feel it, room to turn your head, and as soon as that, it’s over and there’s more space than you know what to do with. You stand up. Breathe in. The air, cool, stale, saturated with sheer time, thousands of years this air has been here, long before humans knew this place existed. But it’s also the same air shared with those first spelunkers who climed into these depths one hundred years ago. Their voices are still there, lingering, the emotions escaping their lips and expressed in their caution as they explore dark trenches for the first time, it’s all there, hovering above you, all around. It’s in the layer of dirt that coats your body, gets in your lungs. You breathe in. What a rush.

And that’s caving. I love it. I think I’ve just discovered new criteria for decideing where to live. It was mountains, ocean, etc, now it is caves. I suggest it to anyone not afraid of small spaces, and maybe even those who are, just to add a little umph to your day.

Hello strangers

Wednesday, September 28th, 2005

The train from Oslo to Bergen was indeed beautiful, but it was also upwards of seven hours, most of this time spent in solitude, wondering at the nationality of the couple across from me. Sitting facing these people for so long, I still cannot ascertain knowledge as to what language they are speaking. Then, for some reason, (because I having not spoken to them or anyone else, they could not know which language I spoke) they ask me where I am from in an accent I do not recognize. [Note: you will not find a single conjunction in this entire blog, as I cannot find an apostrophe key] I tell them New York, and ask the same of them. Wales. ha. Anyway, they are very friendly and ask where I am staying, seeing as how it was rather late by this time and the information office was long closed. I tell them honestly that I do not know and they graciously offer to share their tent with me. Now, it should be noted that this sort of scenario is not new to me. For some reason–and it has been this was since I was 17 or so,couples in their almost 30s either just married or probably soon to be–love me. I have got my theories as to why this is, but will not expound upon them here, just suffice it to say when I meet a couple like this, I know they will almost immediately take a great shine and concern, sort of “we want to be your friend, but we are also suddenly filled with a feeling toward you that is very parental and protective” sort of thing. I do not mind. I enjoy all the care of an older relative or sibling, but with none of the repromanding that might accompany our subsequent behavior. In Norway, there is a rule that you can camp anywhere, so long as it is 300m from any houses. So we head towards a park we see on their map, but when we get there, find it is actually a militazy base, and probably not therefore appropriate for out camping upon. Then, it begins to rain. We seek shelter across the street under an awning that is possibly a loading dock. I learn they have just been to Spain for “cheap but good” wine and rum. So, with no where to go, and the weather being no condontinion to go in, we toast the night in leaky paper cups (made in the UK) and have a smashing good time sitting on the loading dock until 2am when the rain subsided and we checked into a hostel. I slept in quite a while and when I woke up, they were gone. Cést la vie. What was left of the next day I spent sightseeing around Bergen and met a Norweigian named Daniel, who was staying at the hostel because he had had a fight with his wife. An interesting character. Next, I was off to Hamburg for a day before finally arriving here, in Luxembourg. Luxembourg is a clean, green hilly machine. It is very small, which I suppose helps in keeping it so tidy. Tonight, I am overnighting it to Munich, to catch a day or so of Oktoberfest, though I doubt I will be able to find anywhere to stay, so will probably just move along to Switzerland where I have some business to take care of. But more on that later…

Oslo finally!

Friday, September 23rd, 2005
That's right, after 3 weeks of trying, I have arrived! My apologies to those of you who I know I owe personal emails to (and to those whom I sent emails but who did not recieve them--well, I tried.) ... [Continue reading this entry]

Getting warmer…well, not warmer exactly…

Friday, September 16th, 2005
Ok, this one's gonna be short because I only have 5 minutes remaining. I left Amsterdam for Coppenhagen, spent a few nights there and now I'm hanging out in Stockholm....Slowly but surely, closer to Oslo. After all this ... [Continue reading this entry]

Pics

Tuesday, September 13th, 2005
Ok, this computer isn't allowing me to upload pictures, but here's the website where you can find them when I put them up. In the meantime, you can at least see my cool new haircut. I cut off ... [Continue reading this entry]

The Nordic states are conspiring against me

Monday, September 12th, 2005
So, my good feeling about Brussels was right on the mark. But then, in a country that's famous for chocolates and waffles, what's not to love? Seriously. It was nice to stay in one place for more ... [Continue reading this entry]

Keeping one’s eyes on the prize

Friday, September 9th, 2005
Yeah; this may be a bit muddled/mispuncuated because I am on a foreign computer. (Written yesterday; Sept 8th) So here‘s one for you- I had booked a flight to Oslo for today; so I should be there now, yes? No, ... [Continue reading this entry]

In London for a spell…

Saturday, September 3rd, 2005
Not surprisingly, Nicole and I land in London and have already changed our plans. Little did we know a round trip ticket to Scotland would be something like 180 US dollars. You wish. So, we decided to ... [Continue reading this entry]