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Monday, December 19th, 2005

“The now that passes produces time, the now that remains produces eternity.” – Severinus Boethius

So hello to everyone! Not much to report this time around. I’ve been taking things at a much more relaxed pace the past week or so. After Bratislava, I headed to Krakow, where I also booked 4 nights. Then, due to a bus schedule incompatible to my desired departure date, I ended up staying in Krakow another 2 nights, making 6 nights in all. A new record. Aside from a sobering day trip to Auschwitz/Birkenau that upset me (saw that one coming), I thoroughly enjoyed this city, but I had a feeling I would. When deciding where to study abroad (after the college nixed my dreams of going to Turkey) I was actually between St. Petersburg and Krakow. I chose Russia because I figured the language would come in more handy. So, I’m glad I could spend some time there with what could have been. It was a bit hard to get around because it became quite frigid at times, but I really really took to the place. Especially, this little restaurant I found (well, it was reccommended), good atmosphere, mainly local students, great food–all homemade, and crazy cheap prices. I ate there every day. No seriously. Man, did I eat a lot. But really, it’s a reasonably small town, so I covered it quickly, and when you combine this with unfavorable weather to be out and about in…what else is there to do? I was also lucky in that the place I was staying had free internet, but I’m afraid it’s spoiled me a bit. Yesterday, I was up at 5am to catch a bus to Cesky Krumlov. I’ve heard amazing things about this place from several people I’ve met along the way, so I’ve been excited to see it all. They weren’t kidding. It’s a quaint little town with the little winding cobblestone roads that everyone loves in european cities. And this time of year, there’s less of me, the tourists. But also I ate some kind of Czech street hotdog, which is really more like garlic dog, which scored some negative points and has probably also killed any chances I had of making friends here. Ah well. I took 3 buses to get here, all in all 11hrs. I had to go all the way from Poland to the east of the Czech Republic to catch another 2 buses back down to the south westish part. It was ok until the guy sitting next to me on the first bus fell asleep and then sort of fell over on my shoulder, snoring. Then it was just awkward and loud. Now, I’m back in the real world where you have to pay to get online and you can’t be on after 9pm. Losers. Don’t these people understand the implications of differing time zones? Anyway, as I warned at the beginning, I don’t have much of an update just now. Last night, I got in and just watched a few dvds, which is always something of a treat. My family comes to Prague for Christmas and New Years, which I’m very excited about, so I’ll be heading there on the 22nd. Other than that, I’m looking to come to some sort of definitive decision about my plans after they leave. I’m giving it a few more days, as I’m still waiting to hear about the possible job in Damascus. When I find anything out, I’ll add it.

Hindsight–a journey unraveled

Wednesday, December 14th, 2005

This one goes out to all the will-be travelers out there who want some structure in their lives while backpacking, or who just want a better idea of what is possible. Granted, this is not technically “preparatory” for me, in that I made it up as I went along (with the exception of knowing, “I should go east/west today”) But I thought it might be beneficial for anyone else who was looking to plan a trip like this one and wanted an idea of an itinerary. I broke it down into two parts, the first is a list of the cities I saw in the order I saw them, so some may occur twice because I back-tracked, etc. The second list is a list of countries and how long I stayed in each. Details: I had a 3 month unlimited eurail pass, and for all the bad rap they get for occasional hidden reservation fees, I would say for the amount of cities I got to see, it was definitely worth it. Also, there are many countries where you pay no surcharge, notably: Germany, Switzerland, Austria, most of Italy. (Countries most notorious for charging extra are Spain and France). Virtually all night trains-unless you’re sleeping in a seat, as I usually did-will cost the equivalent of a hostel. Also, I flew in from New York to London, which does not honor eurail, so my 3 months does not start until after get to Paris. So here it is:

London, UK
Paris, France
Brussels, Belgium
Antwerp, Belgium
Brugge, Belgium
Amsterdam, Netherlands
Coppenhagen, Denmark
Malmo, Sweden
Stockholm, Sweden
Helsinki, Finland
Goteberg, Norway
Trondheim, Norway
Oslo, Norway
Bergen, Norway
Hamburg, Germany
Luxembourg, Luxembourg
Munich, Germany
Budapest, Hungary
Vienna, Austria
Salzburg, Austria
Interlaken, Switzerland
Venice, Italy
Padova, Italy
Florence, Italy
Pisa, Italy
Bari, Italy
Athens, Greece
Rome, Italy
Florence, Italy
Salerno, Italy
Legnaro, Italy*
Padova, Italy
Verona, Italy
Monte Carlo, Monaco
Nice, France
Barcelona, Spain
Valencia, Spain
Alacante, Spain
Granada, Spain
Chefchaouen, Morocco
Fez, Morocco
Marrakesh, Morocco
Moulay el Mehdi, Morocco**
Algeceras, Spain
Rondo, Spain
Cordoba, Spain
Lisbon, Portugal
Sintra, Portugal
San Sebastian, Spain
Bordeaux, France
Paris, France
Madrid, Spain
Escoria, Spain
Barcelona, Spain
Montpellier, France
Geneva, Switzerland
Montreux, Switzerland
Luzern, Switzerland
Bern, Switzerland
Zurich, Switzerland
Innsbruck, Austria
Munich, Germany
Fussen, Germany
Grunau, Austria
Vienna, Austria
* Though this is a lovely village, it is probably not at the top of every travelers list. I went here to get a taste of real Italy and to visit my friend, Nicole. I spent about 4 days here.
**Morocco is not covered under the eurail pass, but I had the time. I spent about a week here.

Country Totals:
UK: 1 week
France: 9 days
Belgium: 4 days
The Netherlands: 3 days
Denmark: 2 days
Sweden: 4 days
Finland: 2 days
Norway: 4 days
Germany: 4 days***
Luxembourg: 2 days
Hungary: 3 days
Austria: 5 days
Switzerland: 8 days
Italy: 2 weeks
Monaco: 1 day
Spain: 2 weeks, 3 days
Morocco: 1 week
Portugal: 3 days
Greece: 4 days
***Germany is a big, beautiful country and it cannot possibly be done justice in 4 days, I was lucky to have spent last spring break there, so I’d already seen a lot of it. I would recommend a week at least.

Places I would like to have seen:
Bilbao, Sevilla, and Santiago de Compostela, Spain
Faro and Porto, Portugal
Milan, Italy
Ireland-it IS included on the eurail pass, but I never quite worked out how to get there.
Somewhere in the arctic circle

Hope this helps somebody. Happy travels.

End Chapter One

Friday, December 9th, 2005
"You know, there are very few places in the world where I am at home. Isn't that pathetic? And there are actually fewer of them every day, too. And they're shrinking. Does this happen to you? ... [Continue reading this entry]