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Highway to Hell!

Friday, July 14th, 2006

When me and Andy purchased our tickets and signed up for the 10 hour overnight bus trip I don’t think either one of us knew how bad it could actually be. I had taken an overnight bus from Phuket to Bangkok that was about 16 hours of hell but compared to this ride it was a first class flight. We also figured that to get from Saigon to Hanoi for $15, a distance that is roughly over 1200 miles and being able to stop at a few cities in between, , we couldn’t complain about much. We waited anxiously at the travel office for the bus to pick us up. Slightly just after 8 P.M. the box on wheels came to a screeching halt out front and we both looked at each other and without saying a word were thinking the same thing…

“This is gonna be good.”

Of course the bus was already packed with passengers which gave us no choice of seating. On these buses the engines are in the rear which means the last few rows, especially the last one, are raised. The last row of the bus has 5 seats. Andy walked down the aisle and proceeded to sit to his left and take the window. I filed in behind him and another guy sat in the middle seat and was able to stretch his legs out straight ahead of him into the aisle. We pulled away and proceeded to make a few more stops to pick up a few more people. We counted a handful of empty seats and knew that the two remaining seats in our aisle would most definitely be taken. As more people piled on the bus and less seats became available it was apparent that people would be sitting in the aisle, which happened.

Me and Andy proceeded to laugh and pretend as if it was ok. Finnally a mom a baby and a granny with one eye took the remaining seats in our row. In front of them were the rest of her kids, three of them piled into one seat. The little bastard sitting in the aisle proceeded to sit there and stare at me and andy. Not cool.

One thing that I should have stated about automobile culture here in Southeast Asia, especially Cambodia and Vietnam is that they beep their horns about every 10 seconds, no joke. They pass recklessly and beep their horns at everything, this makes it virtually impossible to sleep. So as we settled in and tried to get some sleep we kept being woken up by the beeping horn only to turn and see that stupid kid staring at us again. On top of that the guy next to me seemed to be infatuated with this baby…

“goo…goo…ha ha ha ha…goo goo ga ga.”

This loser then proceeded to take pictures with his flash on so he could show the baby. So we have a beeping bus driver, a kid staring at me, enough legroom for a cockroach, and a loser taking pictures on the bus to make the baby laugh. I would get my revenge on the baby later on.

Our first pit stop took us to a dusty gas station. We got out and proceeded to see if there was anything to eat. Andy went to grab a bag of M&M’s.

“How much?” He replied with an expression that said, go ahead and say a high price and see what i do.

The M&M’s cost 12,000 Dong, which is about 75 cents. That is an extremely high price seeing as he paid about 5,000 the day before. He proceeded to take the bag he just grabbed from this cooler and chuck them bag in as he laughed right in this kids face. The kid cursed him out in Vietnamese and we both laughed. After our bus driver had his 6 course meal that took about 45 minutes we pushed onward. As Andy and I tried to find a comfortable spot it got more and more frustrating. Because our seats were higher than the rest it meant that the ceiling was closer to our heads. Andy, standing at 6 foot two inches tall felt the brunt of this. At some point on this next leg of the journey i woke to the sound of andy slamming the ceiling with his fist as he muttered some words under his breathe. I laughed as the sound of that woke everyone else up on the bus.
Finnally just around 1 we reached a stop where people got off. Andy immediately grabbed a seat further up in the bus and the guy next to me did as well. This gave me two seats in the back row to try to get comfortable. For the next 2 hours i pretty much fell asleep and was comfortable…i thought this would be a piece of cake. At the next stop at about 2:30, the bus driver proceeded to have another 6 course meal and waste another 45 minutes. While we waited I went back on the bus to try to get comfortable. The Granny had placed the baby stretched out on all the seats, just to the edge of where my two seat haven began. As the bus then pulled away, every subsequent bump moved the baby further and further into my space and they just left her. I was so angry that I did what every rational human being would do…I farted on the baby’s head while it was sleeping. Yes, i know that’s sick and wrong, but at 3 in the morning without any sleep on a bus ride that horrible, you resort to desperate measures. This baby will most likely have learning disabilities because of me, but i don’t care.

Finnally at just after 6 in the morning with the sun rising over the South China Sea the bus pulled up into the coastal resort town of Nha Trang. Bruised and battered me and Andy found a guesthouse and fell asleep for the rest of the afternoon.

I want Chicken I want Liver…Vietnam, Vietnam please deliver!

Wednesday, July 12th, 2006

Goooooooooooooooood Morning Vietnam! Ha Ha…I’ve always wanted to say that from Vietnam. So I’ve finnally arrived in Vietnam, what a lovely place. Took a bus ride from Phnom Penh all the way to Saigon or Ho Chi Minh City for $4. Sadly enough there were no Cambodian Karaoke Music Videos on this bus. Crossing into Vietnam was probably one of the most painstaking processes you could ever imagine. Finding a bloody pen to fill out the immigration forms was a 20 minute process. Maybe because it’s a communist country they have to share pens equally throughout the country. After clearing the border and being allowed in we finnally arrived after about 8 hours of traveling. Saigon moves at a pace that would make your head spin. Motorbikes outnumber cars at least 10 to 1. Crossing the street is like walking a tight rope over the Grand Canyon without a safety harness while wearing a speedo. After sever near collisions I decided to walk across the street with my head down without looking. This makes it easier and less scary and it makes you feel like moses as you part the sea of motorbikes. Me and Andy went to the War Remnants Museum yesterday. It is a collection of U.S. planes, tanks and helicopters all leftover from the war. It is a pretty one sided depiction of the war…surprise surprise. Sadly enough I don’t know much about the war, I think it’s partly because I was absent the day they taught the Vietnam war in school and also because I think that America doesn’t want to teach and educate it’s people about a war that was so controversial and ultimately unsuccessful. This museum is littered with photos of people who are either being tortured by American soldiers or of people who are suffering the effects of the napolm and agent orange that was dropped by America all over the Vietnam countryside. I know that if I went to a Museum in the U.S. dedicated to the Vietnam war I would probably see a different story, probably not an entirely true one but different. I’m sure the real truth behind the war would fall somewhere in the middle of what each country would depict. Either way, these museums are not watered down, they are harsh, cold, and depict some of the most horrible images you could imagine. On display in glass jars are siamese babies with defects from the toxic chemicals dropped…it’s tough to look at. There are photos of american soldiers crowded around a hole in the ground filled with bodies that have dirt all the way up to their necks. There is a photo of an American Soldier smiling as he picks up the head and a few remains of a Vietnamese person who was just shredded by a bomb of somekind or a landmine. There is a photo of an American tank riding down the street with two people being dragged from behind. These images may never leave my head you just have to wonder what people are thinking when this stuff is happening. What’s even worse is knowing that it is still happening today in Iraq. Now i’m gonna sing a song:

“War…huh…what is it good for? Absolutly nothing…say it again.”

Ok, sorry, enough of that.

All in all Ho Chi Minh or Saigon is a nice welcome into Vietnam. Like any big southeast asian city it is filled with people trying to sell you anything. Our first night we were solicited by a 4 year old girl. It was 10 o’clock and we were sitting outside at a bar having a beer. She walked up to us with her pajamas on with a pack of gum she was trying to sell. She spoke very good english and had the sense to negotiate the price. I have several cousins around this age and it’s hard to understand how parents here can let them do it, but they do and it works.

Traveling through all these different countries pretty much makes you a currency exchange expert…or at least it should. You are constantly dealing and negotiating rates and paying for things in American, mostly in Cambodia and recieving local currency as change. When I arrived in Vietnam I headed straight for an ATM to get cash. Unlike Cambodia which gives you american dollars from the ATM, Vietnam gives you their currency which is the Dong…yes, the Dong. So I put my card in, pushed my passcode and was given the option to take out the following amounts of money:

– 100,000

– 500,000

– 1,000,000

– 1,500,000

– 2,000,000

After several seconds of trying to do the math in my head i figured that 100,000 would surely be enough. So i pushed the button and one bill came out, it was a 100,000 note. Off to the bar I went with Andy. We sat down and got a beer and the beer cost, 20,000. Oops! Basically I had taken out about $8. My bank also charges me $3 to use the atm internationally…not good. The next day I went to the ATM and took out 2 Million Dong, it is absolutely crazy to think that I took out that much money from an ATM, i felt like i was Donald Trump or something. 2 Million is about $130 U.S.

So tonight me and Andy are heading out of town on the overnight bus to Nah Trang. It is north of Saigon on the coast. We have booked a boat tour to do some snorkeling and to visit some islands. I also hope to do some diving here as well. From there we head north to Ho Ain, and then to Hue before arriving in Hanoi, my final place of departure in SE Asia before i fly to Hong Kong. I pushed my plane ticket back a few days out of Hanoi to give myself a few more days. The one advantage of booking with a travel agent is the ease in which you can change your ticket. It took me about 5 minutes in a Cathay Pacific office, that is my airline, to change it, and it cost nothing…very convenient.

I’m working on getting some photos up so you can check the photo site and hopefully i can get a few up. Hope all is well with everyone and please for crying out loud send me some freaking e-mails.