In the morning it was pouring down with rain again. After breakfast, where Keiron and the ants declared war against each other, we picked up a small, white Hyundai.

Keiron drove and I was navigating. We stopped at a marae, a sacred site, but after the splendour of Easter Island's moai, a few stone platforms and petroglyphs don't really do it for us anymore...

We went to Te Haapiti village, where we finally found internet, dead slow and hilariously expensive as expected. Keiron bought himself a Hinano t-shirt (the local beer, which has a Tahitian beauty as its logo) and I found another fridge magnet. I got some drinks and then nearly got into the wrong white car, which obviously was a source of much amusement for Keiron over the next few days.

We drove to Afareaitu Falls, where there was a nice if muddy walk. It started pouring down again as we were walking and Keiron made a makeshift umbrella out of a banana leaf. We had to wade through two streams and walk up muddy tracks, but when we got to the waterfall it was very picturesque. On the way back we both stayed miraculously upright on the muddy slope.

We continued to drive round the island (it's only 40 km in all), stopped for a baguette and a photo at the viewpoint.

In the evening I finished my book and managed to switch mine from the Club Bali Hai across the road. We whiled away the rest of the afternoon reading and relaxing.

In the evening we took the car to the Moorea Pearl Beach Resort, where the dancers were all set to go. They had great, colourful costumes and shook their booty to live music, singing along. There were two fat ladies in flowery dresses, lots of soft skinned girls with coconuts for bras, and warrior-type men, even though one of them was a very young man with a broad cheeky grin under his budding moustache.

A beefy, tall dancer picked out a tiny Japanese woman of the audience and the contrast couldn't have been more striking, but she shook her booty with the rest of them. We managed to have some food in the meantime, there was lots of poisson cru, of course, and great seafood. I had the best oysters (well, almost as good as the ones in Chiloe, Chile) and lots of fish, not to mention fruit, veggies and sauces. For dessert there were great cakes, tompousses and pastries. After the dances lots of people started to leave though, making us feel like we were being rushed, although in all honesty we couldn't have eaten any more.