Keiron and I had a lie-in, but the cock outside had it in for us and started crowing right underneath our bedrrom window, chasing us out of bed.

We went out to use the frightfully expensive and painfuly slow internet. For that amount of time and money, you can surf to your destination over the waves and still be quicker.

At the mercado artesanal we found ourselves our own moai, a wooden fellow with a carved back and a cute pout. We sat by the beach for a while but the sun was stinging and we retreated to Cafe Ra'a, owned by a German woman. I had a great tostada and Keiron a nice sandwich. They cost us an arm and a leg, but we didn't even flinch, as everything you buy here is ridiculously expensive.

We confirmed our flights with Lan Chile (they have an office in town in case you don't want to walk the whole 15 minutes to the airport...) and sat on the porch, reading our book and catching up on diary duties. In the late afternoon we managed to convince our landlady to do our washing as the lavanderia was closed because the totora reed boat race was on and half the island had gone to watch.

She tutted a bit, but did it anyway, getting upset when two young girls from next door played in the garden with the hose, as it means the washing maching does not get any water... The daughter of the house was singing Rapa Nui songs, she could sing very beautifully. The Polynesians have pushed themselves to the number one spot of the pretty people poll, beating the Cubans, as there are a disproportionate amount of stunningly beautiful women and hunky men around, the daughter and son of the hotel owner two of them.

At about eight we set off for the petroglyphs by the coast and for Ahu Vai Uri to watch the sunset. These are five moai, restored to be standing but some have been damaged quite badly. A bit further up is Ahu Ko Te Riku, one single moai with the eyes put back in (on all the other moai, the eyes are missing - destroyed or decayed, who knows?) and a topknot. In between is Ahu Tahai, again one single one which is quite damaged. Still further north is Ahu Akapu, one moai as well.

Sunset was about nine in the evening and we got some nice photos. We went for dinner at Aluha as it was one of the few places open. They were struggling to keep up and it took over an hour for our desserts (crepes with fruit and chocolate sauce) to arrive.