At 5.30 in the morning, I am not really human. But I had to get on the bus which was to take us back to El Calafate, to jump on the plane to Ushuaia.

I slept through the 4 hour bus ride, as I already knew there was nothing to see. We were on two flights, luckily I was on the first.

The first fifteen minutes you take off from El Calafate and the last fifteen just before you land, are absolutely divine if you have a clear sky, which we did, apart from some photogenic cloud formations.

You see the Upsala Glacier, the Perito Moreno, the Viedma lake and so much more around Calafate. And when you are fifteen minutes from Ushuaia, it's all snowcapped mountains, deep blue lakes and channels and in the middle of that huge bowl, a tiny town.

We were met by Marcelo, our guide of tomorrow's walk, as Duncan is on the second flight. After we put our stuff down in the hotel, we went for a walk. It's sunday, so there's not much to see in this 40.000 people town, but I like it here, this is the final frontier, beyond this, the penguins outnumber the humans...

In the evening, I had dinner with Dave, Leigh, Katherine, Phil and Mike and I had king crab, which was lovely. It is a kind of food you have to eat without thinking about it, as you can see the red spots on the crab meat, which is a bit gross. As dessert, I had a pancake with 'dulce de leche' which is a kind of creamy caramel sauce. The Argentines like their postres very, very sweet!

I went to bed around eleven, in the blissful knowledge I did not have to get up early the following day!