Xian

May 11 and 12

It was a whirlwind stop in Xian to see the Terra Cotta Warriors. We all knew before we got there that it wouldn’t be enough time and we regretted it the whole time we were there. There was only time to do one thing and the rest of the things we longed to do would have to wait for another trip.

We arrived late in the day after a long bus ride into the city and an hour of trying to find a taxi that would take us to our hostel. None of them wanted such a low fare (only 1 dollar to go 1 and a half kilometers) Some very helpful local students came to our rescue, hailed a taxi driver and argued with the driver for about five minutes while fending off another couple who wanted to take the taxi instead. The taxi driver finally agreed to take us although we had to pay him a higher fare than the meter.

One of our favorite hostels.

We stayed in a wonderful restored Ming dynasty courtyard building turned into a hostel. All of us agreed Seven Sages was one of the best places we stayed on our whole trip. Circular doorways led to a series of courtyards with rooms facing the center. Red lanterns hung outside under the overhanging roof. And best of all, for the kids, there were several resident cats. One of them was so friendly that it curled up next to me and purred as I tried to fill out our registration form.

The next day, after a quick breakfast in the hostel restaurant overlooked by a life size replica of a terra cotta warrior we stashed our bags in the hostel storage room and set off to meet our friends the Owens at the bus stop for the fast bus to the Terra Cotta Warriors. The area in front of the train station is huge but somehow we found each other.

When we arrived at the monument, I was stunned. It was completely unrecognizable from my last trip. Souvenir shops competed for space with Kentucky Fried Chicken and coffee shops. We walked for fifteen minutes before arriving at the actual building containing the warriors. There are now three buildings housing terra cotta warriors and a museum with some of the chariots and horses found nearby. In the last building we visited there was a space to have your picture taken with about 15 replicas. Also, you could order a replica made with your own face on it.

A very special souvenir for the discriminating traveler.

Twentytwo years ago, one large building covered the warriors accompanied by a row of souvenir shacks that I thought at the time were very touristy. A large grassy area surrounded the main building where today there is elaborate landscaping and a forest of young pine trees interlaced with wide concrete walkways.

The warriors themselves were unchanged and still very impressive. Such care and workmanship devoted to making each figure only to have them buried in a massive tomb. Unfortunately, the emperor ordered all of the people who worked on the warriors to be killed, therefore preserving the secret of the contents and location of his tomb.

Terra Cotta Warriors in the main building

After a long but informative tour by the guide that we hired, all five kids lobbied for a stop at the Subway we saw on our way to the monument. On a shorter trip we probably wouldn’t go but long-term travel changes your priorities and a yummy sandwich with the taste of home sounds perfect.

A modern day warrior gets tips from the ancients.

We returned to our hostel, had a snack at their restaurant and headed out to the airport for a flight to Beijing. Perhaps someday we’ll be back to check out the soon to open subway system and bike on top of the entire length of the old restored city wall.
-Margit