The Chitwan Nature Reserve

Let’s flash back in time to just before our trek. We recently left Katmandu, and took a bus down to Chitwan nature reserve. The ride was okay, really, if you could ignore the fact that the bus had square wheels. We had a nice, pre-prepared trip set out for us, so after getting off the bus there was a car there ready to drive us to the hotel.

One open air jeep ride later, we arrived, threw our packs into the room, got the Wi-Fi password, and headed down to eat. Dad managed to suffer through a pre-prepared meal that the rest of us enjoyed, and we all went back up to the room.

Now, getting something prepared for you ahead of times makes things infinitesimally easier. No planning, choosing restaurants and hotels, ordering, or bargaining for prices. However, they like to plan things as if we were average tourists only gone for a week or so. That means as much stuff per day as the daylight allows.

Emma and I surfed the web and did our school until it was time to go down to the elephant breeding center. We hopped on the bus and drove through the countryside, past goats, chickens, farmers, cows and ducks. Eventually, after letting a herd of water buffalo go by, and moving past a few motorcycles and jeeps getting washed in the river, we moved across the water via a small bamboo bridge.

Then we walked across some grass, read a few signs, and entered an area full of elephant paddocks. The mother stood by eating with her two babies.

For the rest of the visit, our attention was caught by the Elephant’s strange repetitive behavior. They would take a step forward, then back, and repeat it constantly. Or toss their head up and down repeatedly. Mom thinks it was because they were of lack of metal enrichment. That led us to take their claims of letting the elephants out every day with a lot of salt.

At the end of our stay, it started to lightly sprinkle. Fortunately, it didn’t pour harder during the ride back to the resort. As soon as we reentered the room though, it began to pour. Fortunately, we were inside, and safe. During dinner we asked if we were going to the dance festival that was scheduled for tonight.

“No,” he said, “Not if it keeps raining. If the rain stops tomorrow, then we go.” We nodded, then went back to our meal.

It didn’t stop raining.

Early the next day, after breakfast, we went down to the banks of the river our place was located on and hopped on a dug-out canoe. We drifted peacefully down the river, watching the dozens of birds lining the banks.

Then our guide pointed out an odd blob. He called it a crocodile. As we got closer, we saw he was right. Our boat got very close, to Mom’s agitation.

The Crocodile (Or Alligator?)

Eventually we pulled up to the bank and all filed out. Then the driver got working pushing the boat upriver.

We talked to the guide, who detailed a list of things to do if we got attacked by animals. Mom wasn’t too excited about that either. Especially because the guide only had a stick to defend us with. (He wasn’t allowed to have anything more dangerous so he couldn’t hurt the animals).

Anyway, we entered the hot jungle and missed a Rhino by seconds. We continued for hours without a glimpse of wildlife. Out guide told us this was because the scent of humans was too strong. The only other thing we saw was a tiger footprint, and the mounds of rhino dung that were apparently used by them daily. Three times a day, they would evacuate their colon in those areas.

After crashing at our room, we headed back out to ride elephants. That was fun. Mom was sick though, so she couldn’t come.

One truck ride later, we were safely in the elephant area. A barbed wire fence stood in front of us, and behind that, many elephants. Multiple raised platforms were there so we could mount them. We climbed the steps and carefully stepped onto a wooden platform tied on to the elephants back. A bit uncomfortable, but it worked.

A small army of elephants took off into the woods. Our elephant driver guided us away from the rest, into the deeper jungle. We also spotted another distant crocodile as we entered the trees, but it was too far away to get a good picture.

We saw a few peacocks just after that, and then entered the deeper jungle again. Soon, the other elephant drivers began shouting to ours in Nepalese. Our elephant quickly moved over to the others, where they were looking at a mother rhino and her baby.

The number of elephants quickly swelled, until there were dozens looking at it. It was quite amazing.

The problem with riding elephants is that the animal you are riding is just as interesting as the animal you are watching.

The poor rhino got a bit frightened, and at the first possible opening, ran off into the jungle with her child.

Our elephant separated from the rest again, and entered the jungle again. We chased after the Rhino, and after a monkey or two, saw it again.

Then the elephants left it alone, and marched into the forest again. Later, we saw some deer, more deer, and deer and monkeys.

Then the ride was over, and we dismounted carefully and got back to solid ground.

The elephant drivers figured out an ingenious way of getting tips- having the elephants grab them. One would hand money to the elephant, who would grab it with its trunk and give to the elephant driver.

Very ingenious.

Later that day we went to a dance festival. It was okay. I wasn’t a big fan, and was so tired I could barely make it through the entire thing. We left early and went to sleep.

And the next day we left for Pokhara!

-Bjorn