We just made the move out of our hammock and left the heat of Puerto Escondido for the mountains of Chiapas and the sight of your own breath in the chilly mountain air.....it took 13 hours overnight which was pretty nice even though it sounds rough. The bus was in darkness all the way until dawn and sunrise...its a big sky in Mexico and there is no light to spoil the view, the moon was a crescent but the other way up from what we are used to and it was low and orange and twice the size......more stars than i could imagine and i couldnt sleep at all....we got to San Cristobal in the mist and cold early and walked and found a cheapish hostel and slept...no danger of any mosquitos here....its way too cold. Plenty of people selling in the streets and shoe shiners and friendship bracelets and coffee shops and internet cafes and fireworks and fruit drinks and vegetarian cafes and hostels and a cinema showing arty films and too much coffee makes a man twitch and jabber and i just brought a cheap copy of Moby Dick to keep us entertained through those cold Chiapas nights.......................and somewhere here are Fernando and Pamela and Pete and Matt and Alan, maybe we can interest them in Saturdays screening of Freaks at the vegetarian arty film place.......jono