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March 10, 2005

Still day 148: Tamaki Maori Village

After we both had a shower to get the sulphur smell off, we waited for the transport to Tamaki Maori Village. We were picked up by a bus & busdriver, the latter introducing himself as 'Dennis the Menace can't play Tennis'.

The bus was nearly full, we picked up a few more people. On the way to the village, Dennis explained that we had to imagine we were a Maori tribe, off to visit another tribe in our 'waka' (canoe, now means any type of transportation). We needed to appoint a chief, an adult male. Yossof, a timid man from Indonesia who was in New Zealand to Learn English got the honour.

On arrival, the chiefs face Te Wero, the challenge, before he and his tribe can enter the 'marae' of the accepting tribe. The warrior of the host tribe will go through intimidating gestures before offering a peace token (Teka) which the chief must accept in a certain way to indicate his peaceful intentions. They will then be welcomed by the 'karanga' or welcome call.

Our chief accepted the peace token and preformed the 'honig' (pressing of noses, meant to share a common breath). We walked behind him into the forest, where we could see scenes of traditional Maori tribal life, such as warriors practising with spears, women singing, men carving a canoe etc.

We were then invited to enter the Wharenui (the big house or meeting house). Dennis had taught us to say 'Kia ora' which means hello, and also thank you or here you go. The group Rangi-a-Tea performed dances and told us about instruments, songs and legends of the Maori, first in Maori language, then in Kiwi English... The women, for example, dance using poi, balls of woven flax that are spun around.

After that, we got to eat food cooked in a 'hangi' or earth oven, where the food is cooked using hot stones, covered in earth, very similar to a Chilean 'curanto'. The food itself was amazing: New Zealand lamb with gravy or cranberry sauce, chicken, fish, mussels, lots of salads and sauces and the great 'kumara', a type of sweet potato. Dessert was chocolate pudding, custard and fruit salad... delicious! Finally, we witnessed the Poroporoaki, the closing ceremony, with warata (song) and whaikorero (speeches).

On our 'waka' trip back, Dennis explained that the leaving tribe would traditionally sing songs on the way back and he made Yossof start of, who sang an Indonesian song, a lot less timid than he was before as he had had a few... A girl sang a Vietnamese song. The Aussies and English (and secret Belgians) kept very quiet (not quite drunk enough I guess) so Dennis told jokes taking the piss out of the Aussies and he sang songs himself.

He taught us one more word, 'kaikite' which means goodbye, then dropped us off. It was a brilliant evening and one of the highlights of New Zealand so far.

Posted by Nathalie on March 10, 2005 03:46 AM
Category: New Zealand/Aotearoa
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