We spent our last day in Rapa Nui saying goodbye to roosters and ants, to a stuffy room and more ants, to the beach, to a dog with flees we had for company, the wonderful food etc.

We had lunch at Cafe Ra'a (motto: El cafe mas aislado del mundo - the most isolated cafe in the world), where I had a divine salad. In terms of cuisine, Easter Island has been very good, if not in terms of finance. They had two stunningly beautiful people helping out. It was a jarring note to hear the Polynesian man speak German (with an exotic touch) though.

We sat by the beach and I lost my watch somewhere along the way, but I suppose the languid Pacific pace does not require a watch. We went back, saying goodbye to Tito Tattoo (the owner's husband) and walked to the airport. We checked in and looked around the shops, which took all of two minutes, and then were spoilt by another great sunset.

The comedy moment was provided by the tractor driver who was trying to reverse-park Lan Chile cargo holders in a tight spot. He rammed them into the fence instead.

The plane arrived an hour late, whooshing over our heads as we were watching in the garden. We got on the plane at about 23.30, an hour late. We got a late dinner and true to form, Lan Chile came through, although my pasta could have been a tad warmer...

The film was Thunderbirds, pretty much the worst film I have ever seen. When we got off, Keiron got annoyed with a French man pushing and shoving behind him. At the passport check we asked for a stamp in our passport and said 'gracias' instead of 'merci'...

We found the sign for Chez Fifi outside, where it was rainy but - where have I heard this before? - damp and sweaty. As it was nearly one at night, a round-bellied Polynesian showed us to our room in silence and it seemed fine at first sight, although we shared our bathroom with the people next door, who we could hear but not see, and the door did not lock so we had to make a lot of noise to show we were in there.

Once we got into the bed, we realised it wasn't exactly clean, in fact the foam mattress smelt of wet dog and was a bit scrunchy with bits of sand and god knows what else, yuk. Being near the airport was convenient but we hadn't realised we were really that near: we heard every flight as if we were standing right next to the plane. Needless to say we did not sleep all that well.