Mozambique – Huff and Puff and Blow Your House Over
When you’re traveling to wildly different places like I am the things we hate most at home can be quite the adventure. Take airports. I hate them at home yet I am finding each one on the road to be an adventure. Making “business” cards at Frankfort (I will unfortunately run out way too soon – the response I am getting from everyone regarding what I am doing is just amazing) was absolutely fun because it was all in German! Going through customs where they pass your bag around the non-functional X-Ray machine to be inspected (unzip backpack, look in, re-zip) is hilarious. Knowing why the plane is late or when it will be time to board… entertainment galore. But mostly, the people-watching is the best. Jo’Burg Airport is incredible. Flights and people from all over the world. Great food at a good price served by folks who really want to provide you with good service. Find me an airport in America or Europe where the personnel want to help you and enjoy what they are doing.
So after landing in Jo’Burg I am whisked from customs to the Vilanculos, Mozambique flight (2 hours). After landing there, I am shuttled with Adrian and Kate from north of London to the “port” (cruddy sand beach with a couple of boats). We can see Benguerua Island 20 km off shore and the boat ride is quick through the choppy seas. Whereas Jo’Burg was only 6C (back to winter!), Benguerua is in the tropics and warm again. Since leaving Vermont Friday morning, I have been traveling for 47 hours and I am absolutely beat.
I suspected that any island in the Indian Ocean is probably a honeymooner location and I was correct. Marlin Lodge is just that. It didn’t bother me (oh what a year makes) since I just want to relax, recover and do some diving, snorkeling and kayaking. The regular employees are mostly locals and all of the management staff is all South African. Let me guess that I will see this pattern repeated on my trip. We’ll talk about South Africa a bit later.
My room is a very nice bamboo and palm frond “shack” on the beach. It seemed perfect until the winds started whipping up the first night and you really can’t close up the hut. The winds continued to blow almost non-stop for the first four days and a lot of not-so-warm rain fell (sideways!). One night was incredibly cold – cold in the tropics at sea level??? By June 7th I was up at 4 AM writing “I’m scared! We have endured hours of SEVERE winds and rains. I’m in a stick house – I’ll Huff and I’ll Puff and Blow your house over! Never seen winds like this in Vermont or Hawaii. Reminds me of Dec 10, 1995 on the California coast. Hawaii in the middle of the mean Pacific never sees this (hurricaines aside) and I am on a flat island only 20 km from shore on the calm, tranquil Indian Ocean. HA!… I bet at least one of the honeymooners gets pregnant after all of this weather.”
Amazingly, the winds broke by 7 AM and I went for a sunrise walk on the beach without being sand-blasted. I only had two hours sleep that night… so much for the R&R. The staff didn’t seem to think it was such a big deal which tells me that it happens there regularly enough or where they are lodged is much more protected than on the beach. So, I finally got to go diving that day. While the water was calm at the lodge, it was very rough in the channel between islands where a reef exists. Paul took Adrian and I out and I thought my ear did well with some new earplugs, but it turns out that I have messed up my right ear as I have in the past. My dive days are probably over and I don’t know what this means for the rest of the trip. When I surfaced the boat was nowhere to be seen because when I was looking in its direction, I was in a trough. Almost panicked, but then Sheldrick and crew were coming my way. Read a story about lost divers at sea and then come up and not see your boat in rough seas and you’ll understand what went through my mind in a split second! While the water was murky from the storms, I could see fantastic corals and all of the regular fish seemed to be on Balco steroids. Moorish Idols (one of my favorites) were easily twice the size of what I am used to seeing. After getting spooked, swallowing a good amount of sea water, sitting on the rocking boat, almost puking and realizing my ear was not right, I knew that was my last dive of the trip.
There were a lot of highlights to this visit! First, I really enjoyed watching the fisherman preparing their dhows for a day at sea. I also loved the drive around the island seeing how the locals live in small, round palm frond houses. And I especially loved seeing the children. They seem to love life even though they have none of our material posessions. They also are very eager for school. Primary is on the island, but they need to catch a boat to the mainland for secondary. College is very doubtful. Sophia and Stewart from Edinburgh, Scotland witnessed the boat when one child too many were present and he cried because he couldn’t get to school. Does a child in America or Europe feel disappointed when they can’t attend school? I don’t think so. You know all those child beggar stories you here? Yes, they were begging on Benguerua Island from us on the drive. Begging for PENS! They just want some basic stuff for school. I don’t think money means all that much especially for the children. Most of the people looked pretty healthy, too. We’ll talk more about this later. Seeing the Southern Cross for the first time was also a really wonderful moment.
But the best highlight of the visit (aside from the weather being perfect the final two days… finally!) was the people at the lodge and the employees. Adrian and Kate were incredibly gracious inviting me to eat with them when we were in the dining room together. Yes, I can invade a honeymoon and feel good about it. They are wonderful people and I will remember them for helping me get over the hump with the lone traveling. Also, Sophia and Stewart made such a nice couple. They are going to have a great lifetime together.
The local employees were all so hospitable. At first, I wondered if it was just the hospitality veneer, but I soon came to realize that Mozambiquans are very warm and friendly people. Their service was excellent and I learned a lot from them about the island, Mozambique and its people. It was my first experience seeing folks (women) carry 25 Kgs on their heads – absolutely amazing… don’t try that at home. Finally, the management staff was also very good. They worked around my shellfish allergy and served some wonderful food especially fresh fish. I met Corli Tuesday night. She is from Cape Town and stunning. After talking to her for a while, I was flabbergasted to learn that she is only 21 years old. She is many years beyond her age intelligence and experience-wise and it made me wonder about reincarnation. How else did she learn so much about life in so few years? I asked Corli to dinner for the next night and she graciously accepted. I told her she is the most beautiful woman in Africa. By time we were done with dinner, I realized that her inner beauty far outshines the outer. Some very lucky guy is going to win the lottery when she says “I do”! She gave me a Pansy Shell (from Pansy Island – similar to a sand dollar) as a going away present that will remind me of this stay forever. The winds and rains are almost forgotten!
My last twenty-four hours on the island included walks on the beach collecting shells, kayaking to an empty beach, a sunset dhow cruise, dinner with Adrian and Kate and a lomi-lomi massage (ahhhh!) by Corli (that’s her department). By time I left, I was in Africa (brain included) and ready for a lot more. The ride through Vilanculos was awesome. All of the kids were outside and they were a riot. My ear is totally messed up with yellow gunk pouring out – yes, you will be hearing all about the physical issues along my trip!
I am dreaming a lot. Really crazy and vivid dreams. Probably due to jet lag, the winds and anti-malarial medicine even though I am taking the good one (also another topic for later). One night I dreamed Apollo made it home (Apollo disappeared five days after moving in with my friend, Brenda, and this has been a real downer for my whole going-around-the-world deal). Except home was Marlin Lodge. I couldn’t believe he had made it 9,000+ miles! It felt great. I woke up and was lying there thinking about him when suddenly a cat started meowing big time. A feral cat I am sure, but maybe it really was Apollo telling me things are OK.
Good bye Mozambique. Thank you Tracey, Paul, Corli, Adrian, Kate, Stewart, Sophia, Lucous and the rest of the staff for getting me off on the right foot even while Mother Nature did its best to make it difficult. Pretoria, South Africa here I come…
Tags: Africa, Mozambique, Travel
vagabondrick
Rick: sorry about that ear keeping you from further diving – just be sure to get the infection cleared before you do more flying!
Hi Rick –
I see you are off to a very busy start, very exciting! I will enjoy following your progress. Don’t forget Thailand on that Asia list!
I can’t imagine the thoughts that went through your mind when you surfaced after the dive and the boat was gone, not to mention the night of howling wind! yikes. Your blog/journal would make a great book someday.
What business cards? Tell me more about that.
I have a feeling about Apollo that he is happy and well, adopted by someone here – he is a great cat – yellow tabbies are so royal!
We miss you here on the court – met the new neighbors, but it’s not the same…
hope you continue to have a great time.
-Marie
Rick,
Although I am primarily a blogging “Lookie Lou” it would be selfish of me to not acknowledge your trip-sharing gift…. and I encourage your virtual posse to shout out a cheer from time-to-time… Give me a R…an I…
Your entries have been interesting. I’m certain that you could fill pages with your thoughts- yet remember- that this time is yours and it’s all good. In-short—-ENJOY!
Ronnie G
Hi Rick,
That is really weird that someone posted as me…that was not me. Do you know another marie? Anyway, I know you are going to find some wonderful woman and stay there when you do. I am sorry about your kitty, Apollo.
Gosh, I wish I had done something like this when I was unattached. It sounds like the greatest adventure ever! Also too bad about the diving. I hope you can snorkel, at least.
Stay safe….
Love,
Marie and Dave
Hi Rick,
What wonderful experiences to start off your adventure. Maybe Apollo is trying to find you, and will show up at your court. Maybe Marie should keep a look out for Apollo just in case.
We agree with the people you are meeting who think that what you are doing is so unique. I’m keeping a journal of our 3 month adventure in San Francisco, and if you’re interested, I’ll share with you when you’re back in the States. I know that food, wine, museums, architecture and the arts won’t compare with what you are going to experience, but it’s not too bad.
Nurse DiAnn hopes that you get your ear taken care of before any permanent damage occurs.
Take care of yourself, we love you and want to make sure that you make it home safely, and with lots of stories to tell. You’re a good writer and we’ll continue to enjoy your adventure vicariously.
Love,
Terry and DiAnn
Hey Rick,
One beautiful woman enters your life (chronilogical age is NOT important) and we’re sure many more will follow. Sounds like you are off to a fantastic start.
We booked the Galapagos yesterday, so we are on! Guess we’ll have to just do some snorkeling with you instead of diving. Look forward to cruising/kayaking “Darwin’s Paradise” with you.
Take care of yourself and keep on truckin’!!
J&J
Sorry to learn of your diving/ear problems. You’ll find other things to do, I’m sure, but it must be disappointing…
The Corli sounds like quite the gal. 21, smart and worldly, beautiful AND she gives a good massage! Where should I book my flight again? Haha.
That stormy weather on the beach sounds like it was quite an experience. I enjoy a little weather once in a while, if nothing more than it helps me to appreciate the sunny days. Four days of nasty weather on a vacation might tend to get old, though.
OK, take care. I look forward to reading another entry pretty soon.
Ken
Rick – so happy to come home from France and read about your adventure. We had a few of our own. It amazes me how you can manage to leave Dodge for so long.
We returned home last night at 3am and haven’t had a moment to go through your mail but I did notice one letter you sent to a Maria Velasco which was returned here as addressee unknown. I wanted to get that info to you in case this has something to do with your trip.
When I read about your issue with your ears, I couldn’t help but think that perhaps even you have a case of Boomeritis. It happens.
Continue on in peace and health my friend.
xoxox
Ilene
Hey Rick,
Sounds like a fantastic adventure. Not everything goes as planned but plans are way overrated. Have fun. Looking forward to your next posting.
We are booked for the Galapagos. Olaf has our check and our reservations. But that’s another adventure, another day.
Jean & John
I hope you are planning to write a book! enjoy, enjoy, enjoy. You are living your life! Nan
hi rick,
it sounds as if already-a month or so in -you are having an incredible journey. i loved reading about the children. looking forward to hearing about working on the farm in uganda. keep blogging, i’m having a great trip.
xox
safiini
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