Train from Machupicchu to Cusco
Wednesday, February 14th, 2007Chris would have loved this ride. I sat in awe for 3.5 hours as we wound uphill from Aguas Callientes to Cusco area through river and farm valleys. I don’t think there is a train ride like it in America so I don’t think Chris ever took a ride as nice. Jillian and I were separated because a couple of groups had reserved most of the seats in our car. The two groups were German and Japanese… and us two Americans… in Peru. Sweet! Jillian had the Japanese groupies and I had the Germans. We both had headaches by the end of the route. I was sitting next to the Peruvian guide for the Germans. She spoke fluent German and English. I asked her what other languages and she told me French and Italian. She also leads French groups. I said, “four foreign languages as well as Spanish and Quecha?” Quechua is the main language of the indigenous tribes in the Andes and therefore in Cusco area where she is from. These are the people that guides would talk to as far as any cultural tour goes. She said yes to Spanish and a definite no to Quechua. There was a body language to the no to Quechua which definitely said “I don’t talk to those low-lifes.” I was saddened by the attitude and apparent snubbing of fellow Peruvians who have such a rich culture. If I lived here, I think I would want to know Quechua before I learned Italian. I’d rather hang out with a bunch of Incans than Germans, but I guess the Germans are more likely to pay your bills before the Incans…
The train attendants did a little fashion show of high-end Alpaca wear. The German and Japanese groupies went nuts. They were so excited. I stared out the window at the truly exciting countryside which seemed to escape all of them. They took pictures of the “models” and oohed and awed. They clapped for each garment and then they bought a ton of them.
The next day we did a tour of the Sacred Valley including an Incan-only market in Urcos. The tour consisted of Jillian and I and a driver. We were not in the mood for a groupie event after the train ride. Urcos market – not in the guidebooks. I paid two women for their pictures – something I rarely do, but these were too good to pass up. I’ll post the pictures in the next week and you can see what their traditional clothes look like. I also took a couple of pictures of Incans selling Coca leaves and alcohol (unknown variety in a large metal drum). Coca leaves… future blog entry. I also put the longer lens on and captured the folks at their normal tasks from a distance. We also went to the tourista market in Pisac. Bus loads of groupies were there, but the place seemed remarkably empty other than the local sellers. The market was full of Peruvian artesan wares including Alpaca sweaters, jewelry, textiles, etc. This market in Pisac is better than the much heralded market in Otavalo, Ecuador including a much higher ratio of locals to gringos. A European “lady” was repeatedly barking to no one in particular “HOW MUCH!” We were embarassed to be of the same skin color. We looked at one of the vendors who was staring at the woman like she was from outer space and then she looked at us and we all broke out laughing at the freaky woman barking like a dog. The correct behavior would have been to locate the vendor and kindly ask “Quantos, por favor?”
I guess when sophisticated people look at filthy farm folks (I haven’t seen a less clean lot than the Incans… so far) with simple lives, they feel like barking at them to get things done or they act as if they are too lowly for their consideration. I sure am glad us sophisticates haven’t wiped out all of the lowly indigenous people or this would be one boring planet…
As with the trip to Machupicchu, the highlight of our drive was the countryside. The mountains and river valleys of Peruvian Andes are too beautiful for words. The pictures will give you a taste, but they cannot do it justice. Our jaws were dropped most of the day as each new mountain and its underlying valleys came into view. I haven’t made it to Ireland yet, but it is seriously challenged to have the many varied greens of these hillsides.
vagabondrick