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Chili dogs = yes, Dressing rooms = no

Sunday, December 17th, 2006

After enduring one last unexpected goodbye to Mr. Man (which made three heartbreaking farewell hugs in as many days), I did what any self-respecting, red-blooded American female would do – I went shopping.

It started with a practical matter. I need an electric kettle if I’m going to shut myself up in my house and write for the next two months. I cannot write without coffee. I can barely write my own name without coffee let alone the brilliance I fully expect to produce in the coming months. Leave booze to other scribes, I personally believe the answer lies at the bottom of a coffee mug.

There are kettles at the main covered market in town but I had an accompanying list of things to get that defied my time or patience with Tassadej market stalls: mugs, plates, Western-style broom, dust pan, underwear, and socks. It could have taken years to find all these things at the market.

So I caught a tuk-tuk out to Tesco-Lotus. It’s basically like Wal-Mart and every time I go there I get a sharp slap upside the head that I actually live in Asia. It happens when I am doing something much like today – pushing my cart slowly up and down the aisles humming along to Christmas carols and spacing out on brightly colored packaging in a totally familiar consumerist environment – and then suddenly I look around and notice that everyone is Asian…and there is a strange language being spoken…and all the writing is in an unfamiliar script. I have lost the plot for a brief moment before it all comes rushing back and shocks me. This rather upsetting disconnect happens every single time I go to Tesco. I usually recover with a chili cheese dog from Dairy Queen (so. not. joking.). Thank god for multi-national fast-food corporations.

So anyway, there I am strolling slowly along the aisles, pondering the absurdity of the Christmas show I saw on the way in – with the cast grooving around on an outside stage in the blazing afternoon sun, wearing Joseph and Mary costumes and foot-long smiles, while singing traditional carols in Thai accompanied by electric guitar to a suspiciously enthusiastic audience. I have no idea what was going on but it was weird.

I’m thinking about this while looking at underwear. I already know, before I even enter the ladies department, that this part of the shopping expedition is going to be a problem. I blindly grab at a packet of extra-large panties, throw them in the cart, and try to pretend that didn’t just happen. Moving right along…

The clever bit of cross-cultural understanding I came to today is that dressing rooms are universally appalling. What sort of sadistic asshole invented those lights, anyway? I am going to spare you the details and leave it at this: not even the dazzling engineering feats of Thai bras can compensate for seeing oneself naked under dressing room lights when one has recently quit smoking and gained a teensy bit of weight and, due to certain ethnic variations in body type, has extra-fucking-large underwear beating like a tell-tale heart just outside the door in their shopping cart. Ah-hem.

As I busily – and a bit desperately – distracted myself with brooms, dust pans, and coffee mugs, I kept noticing a tall, foxy hipster Thai boy. Then I noticed his foxy hipster Thai girlfriend. We kept running into each other. He kept overtly checking me out. He smiled at me. I smiled back. I wondered if maybe…could this…ooh…could this work both ways?

I may have extra-large Thai underwear lurking in my (oh what’s the English word?) dresser but my relatively exotic cultural status and my fair skin must have some cache, right? If it works for my male compatriots, maybe it can work for me.

But I let the opportunity pass. I don’t mean to be a complete jerk here but what the hell would I do with a Thai boyfriend? Am I the sort of person who could be happy sharing my bed, let alone my life, with someone who doesn’t know who Steve Martin is? Simply put: No.

It’s important to accept these things about oneself. I will wear ‘extra-large’ underwear, I will drink instant coffee, I will eat chili cheese dogs with white processed cheese and watery chili, but I will not date someone who just looks at me blankly when I come out of the blue with one of my frequent non-sequiturs like, “Oh man, Toonces, the cat who could drive a car – how funny was that?”

Drawing this line in the sand may result in spending the rest of my life alone, wandering the aisles of international Wal-Marts and snickering at my own cultural in-jokes. But honestly, as long as it doesn’t involve dressing rooms, I’m fine with that.

North! No wait, south!

Wednesday, October 11th, 2006

The best thing about travelling solo and with no return date or itinerary is that I can change my mind at the last minute. It doesn’t really matter to me where I go and it certainly doesn’t affect anyone else. So I decided that instead of the Chiang Rai –> Chiang Khong –> Laos route, I’ll head halfway back south, then turn left (East, whatever) and go into Laos that way (see previous entry for why). That’s the plan for now, anyway.

I went out to the train station this afternoon and bought a ticket for tomorrow morning to Phitsanulok, a centrally located city that is a little over half the size of Chiang Mai. Geographically, that will put me in a good position to make the next move (i.e. decide which border to cross to renew my visa, in case I change my mind about going to Vientiane).

And I get to ride a train! I’m excited about that. It’s a seven-hour trip and knowing me, I will remain excited for about one of those hours, then spend the next six wondering if we’re almost there yet.

**********

Writing Update

I woke up this morning at 4:30 and knew that the story was completely wrong. Not surprising, since Realizing That Things Are Completely Wrong has recently gone beyond a personal hobby and way over into the territory of vocation. The more important thing is that I realized not only specifically what was wrong with it, but exactly how to fix it. Over breakfast a five-page synopsis blurted out with almost no effort.

The good news is that I think it’s going to be about 200 million times better than the original idea. The bad news is that I need to start almost from scratch. Oh well. It’s not like I have anything better to do at the moment.

Malaria

Tuesday, October 10th, 2006
When I went in for my Hepatitis A booster before I left, the doctor at the travel clinic suggested I fill a prescription for Malarone and take it with me so I'd have an anti-malarial on hand for Laos. ... [Continue reading this entry]

If everyone’s wearing yellow, it must be Monday

Tuesday, October 10th, 2006
I can still keep track of what number each day is because it's the next number from the day before in my journal. Which means I can't miss a day of writing or else I lose whatever fragile grasp ... [Continue reading this entry]

Illness and techno and monks, oh my!

Monday, October 9th, 2006
Yesterday afternoon I got sick again. Luckily this time I started to feel bad (nauseated, feverish, etc.) while still awake so I was able to get everything out of my stomach before it could wreak too much intestinal havoc. ... [Continue reading this entry]

Chiang Mai days

Sunday, October 8th, 2006
I haven't been posting as much lately because life has taken on a rhythm. Not in the negative 'wake up, go to the office' way but in a reassuring, comfortable way. Here's my day: 6am - Come bolt awake ... [Continue reading this entry]

More charades; more rubbish sightseeing

Friday, October 6th, 2006
For what was to turn out to be my Very Last Sightseeing Expedition Of All Time, I had narrowed Chiang Mai's attractions to two choices: the insect museum or the foreign cemetery. One charges admission, the other doesn't. ... [Continue reading this entry]

My morning as an illustration of how one slowly descends into madness

Thursday, October 5th, 2006
My morning began around 5am when my brain went from 0-60 in 2.5 seconds and spent the next two hours struggling with some of the themes of the book - life, death, fate, betrayal, yadda, yadda...until I was in tears ... [Continue reading this entry]

Stranger in a strange land

Thursday, October 5th, 2006
The thing about being the sort of person who has no roots is that, paradoxically, you feel at home anywhere you go. Without safety and comfort waiting for you back in Whereversville, you are free to be safe and ... [Continue reading this entry]

Hi toilet!!

Wednesday, October 4th, 2006
Remember the part about how happy I was yesterday just wandering around eating food? And remember the part about how for the past five months life has acted like nothing more than a schoolyard bully, grabbing any small happiness ... [Continue reading this entry]