BootsnAll Travel Network



Finding The Heart Of Each Day

Before I began backpacking for 4 years in 2002, after retirement as a lobbyist, administrator and educator, and with my three boys grown and out of the house, a friend asked me to “report back to those at home what travel reveals about the human heart and what we have become in this world. To look beneath the surface of things to the heart of each day. Does hope exist? Are people still falling in love? Is everyone buying death as if it were cheap socks at a smoke sale?" I take this on. I look for clarity. I look for signs of courage…of strength of conviction rooted in heart…in an authentic identity, in myself as well as in others. I look for cheap socks…and death for sale. Regardless of their circumstances, I have found all this and people loving their friends and families. And laughing. Since 2006 I have been a foreigner living in Oaxaca Mexico...again finding both sorrow and joy. This blog is intending to keep family and friends apprised of my whereabouts, goings-on, world-watchings and idle thoughts. Anyone else who finds their way here is welcome to leave comments. Click on the thumbnail photos to enlarge them.

This Side Of The Border Problem

April 27th, 2007

Oaxaca is Mexico’s second poorest state with many mountain villages nearly empty of working age men. But over half of the poco English speaking men I have talked to have said they learned the language by working on the East Coast…sweeping a parking lot, waiting tables, dish washing, working on dairy farms in NY state. Many others refer to back-breaking work picking strawberries in California and Oregon….or better…construction in Las Vegas. A woman working as a janitor at the Toyota outlet here said her husband has been in the states for four years. “Oh, where,” I asked. She didn’t know.

My friend Mica had an aunt in Huayapam, Juvita, who sold her successful Tejate business in the market here and unbenownst to her husband, Pedro, paid huge money to an inept “coyote” to take her and two daughters across the border illegally. She died in the Arizona desert. Her daughters survived and are still in the US, leaving her husband here alone. Pedro’s sister, Carmen, is married to a man who hasn’t been back from the US for several years, leaving her here with her 4 year old daughter, Paula.

For 8 years, I mentored a teenage girl from a family of 10 from the Mixtec, in the northwestern Oaxaca mountains that have been playing both sides of the border for years…some of the children legal and some not. The parents have to return every year to work the communal land.

Many are trying to get legal status for work in the US. One young waiter in the Zocalo left his wife and two children in Los Angeles to come home to a small village in Oaxaca to file immigration papers. He is living with his parents and travels by bus one hour twice a day from Tlacalula to Oaxaca City to wait tables at a restaurant in the Zocalo…sending his wages home to his non-working wife. He has been told by immigration all he can do is wait. He has been waiting for one year.

A long-time American born friend from Oregon came to Queretaro with her new Mexican-National husband who is an auto mechanic to file papers for him. They tried once unsuccessfully. Now, in order to be with him, she is stuck in Mexico…trying again. He had been in the US for ten years, living frugally, sending every extra penny home (with Mexico ripping off up to 20% money sent home charges) to support an ill mother with the extra ($40,000) going into “savings” here. Big mistake. As often happens the two brothers entrusted with the money now say there “is no money.”

An AP article of April 27, 2007 illustrates part of the problem that leaves Mexican migrants in a catch-22:

Farm labor shortage may leave crops to rot in field
Tighter border, better paying jobs keep workers away

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More Killed On World’s Roads Than War Or Disease

April 27th, 2007

Mirror.co.uk
BLAIR: GREATEST THREAT IS BAD DRIVING
By Bob Roberts, Deputy Political Editor 24/04/2007

BAD driving kills 1.2million people a year and is a bigger danger to the world than war or disease, Tony Blair said yesterday.

A thousand young people around the globe die every day in crashes and only Aids kills more young men. In the UK, 70 children are killed or seriously injured every week.

Oxfam says around a million have died in conflicts since 2001. The Prime Minister teamed up with ex-Formula 1 racing champion Michael Schumacher to call for action on the shocking death toll.

Mr Blair, speaking at the start of the UN global road safety week, said: “Every minute of every day a child is killed or seriously injured on the world’s roads.

“Road crashes are the second leading cause of death for young men after HIV/Aids and in some African countries more than 70 per cent of those killed on the roads are young breadwinners. It is becoming clear that road injury has a serious impact on the wider development goals we’re all trying to achieve.”

Schumacher said: “Road crashes kill on the scale of malaria or tuberculosis.”

Both men called for a UN conference to work out a strategy for cutting road deaths, which could involve British driving instructors being sent to the Third World to improve training.

Bob.Roberts@Mirror.Co.Uk

I’ll let you decide.

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Black In Mexico

April 26th, 2007

Until 1650 there were more African slaves in Mexico than anywhere else in the Americas. Until 1810 there were more Africans living in Mexico than Spaniards. (From Bobby Vaughn’s dissertation “Race and Nation: A Study of Blackness in Mexico” ref Wikipedia) This was due to the fact that early on Spanish women were not sailing to Mexico and the Spanish population was slower to grow.

Spanish Mexico’s history is of slavery is overshadowed by the vast numbers of Africans sold as laborers in the Caribbean, the United States and Brazil. Although Veracruz on the east coast of Mexico is envisioned as a black state due to the legacy of slaves coming into it’s ports, few people, including most Mexicans, realize that a much larger black Mexican population lives along Mexico’s “Costa Chica” (west coast) which runs just east of Acapulco in Guerrero state down to Huatulco in the state of Oaxaca. Some call themselves Afro-Meztizo (meztizo being the term for the mix of indigenous and Spanish blood) and although they are Mexican, they are beginning to celebrate their black heritage through artistic and cultural activities.

This explains why, when I arrived in Oaxaca in June of 2006, I noticed, in just not a few people, what appeared to be African traits in skin tone and hair texture. In fact, while riding the bus one day during the teacher strike, I also noticed banners hung on the fence surrounding the University calling for more attention to Mexico’s black brothers and sisters.

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Making Tejate

April 24th, 2007

Tejate is a rich frothy drink that is famous in Oaxaca. You get hooked on it. Labor intensive, it is made with criollo corn boiled in wood ash and ground and mixed with toasted and ground mamey seeds, cacao and the flowers of a tree found only in Huayapam.

The annual Tejate Fair on April 1 in Huayapam is a huge deal with thousands coming from all around Mexico to sample Tejate and partake in the dancing, music and food and crafts tables. Late one night at Mica and Bardo’s house, they asked me if I wouldn’t show up at 9am the next morning. A local TV station was going to film Mica’s mom, Ines, a well known “Tejatera,” as she and Carmen demonstrated the laborious art of making Tejate. They wanted me to film the filming for the family.

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International Driving

April 22nd, 2007

Don’t know if it’s just Oaxaca or maybe it’s the whole of Mexico. However, my dentist says that drivers in Oaxaca are worse than in Mexico City! But in Xalapa they were ever so polite…big fines meted out if they are not.

But you are taking your life in your hands in Oaxaca. The taxis and buses are the worst…speeding, honoring no lanes…forcing you over. No stop signs, lights, when there are lights and when they are working, are suggestions only. And then there are the “topes” or speed bumps everywhere. Never know when one is coming up unless you watch the cars ahead and hope they slow down…however, one, with drivers from Veracruz, didn’t slow down until they got to the tope. Then they stopped. Bam. Their little car could do it. My big Toyota Land Cruiser couldn’t. So I slammed right into the back of their car. Good thing no one was hurt. Good thing for insurance.

Actually I expected this…but thought I’d get side-swiped by a bus. Now I know why Mexican immigrants in the north get into so much trouble! A couple years ago in my home town in Oregon I was T-boned by an immigrant going through a red light at about 60 miles an hour…she had no insurance. No one has insurance here except the expats.

There are rules here…just not the posted ones. And heaven help you if you don’t obey them! Boils down to buses and taxis and very small cars do what they want…and that includes just about everyone. Except the gringa with the Toyota with a US license plate. Yes, I know I should have put more space between me and car in front. You get conditioned to keep close…cars, buses and taxis will try to edge into even a sliver of space forcing you over. If you leave a lot of room…say a couple car lengths you never get to where you are going because the whole city will move in front of you.

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Thailand is no better. Was rear-ended by a motorcycle there once. Today got an email from Bob who is living in Thailand: “Now if I could only learn to control my mini-rage reactions at Thai drivers,” he says.

“Earlier this week I was driving in a line of autos and a bus tried to pass the whole line of 5-6 cars. He encountered oncoming traffic and cut in front of me–not really in front more like forced me onto the shoulder.

I offered selected auditory and visual feedback. (Had to laugh because the same thing happens here in Mexico!)

But the curious cultural phenomena is that I was the heavy in that I lost my cool. But driving is very unsafe here–most trips (even to the market) produce an anxiety or at least an edge of apprehension. And the Thais cannot park. It is humerous to watch them attempt a parallel park, most often most of the car is left somewhere out on the street. And I have two significant dings being clipped me while I was parked. Oh well…..” 

I think I detect a note of Thai-speak in that syntax.

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Arrazola & Zaachila

April 20th, 2007

Charly and I took the long way around to Arrazola about 10 miles south of Oaxaca City where copal wood Alebrijas are made…the most famous craft in Oaxaca. Most of the pieces are carved out of one piece of wood with crude knives…with maybe some wings or a snake or a tongue attached.
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The large ones like this cost several hundred dollars.

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My favorites were the little geckos for $6 that you can arrange crawling up and down your walls.
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On wednesday we went to Zaachila thinking it was market day. Nope…it’s thursday. That will have to wait for another time. But the tejate was great.

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Xalapa Veracruz

April 17th, 2007

About 5 miles from Cuatapec, Charly and I caught the annual Xalapa (pronounced halapa) Fair the night before we took the comfortable 1st class bus back to Oaxaca. A small nino was earnestly helping his mom set up her display of toys.
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Some friendly guys from Puebla were helping set up the fair.
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Young guy preparing a sweet bread.
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A bar.
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Cuatepec Veracruz

April 16th, 2007

A designated “Magic City” the signs say. About 5 miles from Xalapa Veracruz NE of Oaxaca on the east coast of Mexico, I wouldn’t say it was exactly “magic” but this pueblo of about 4000 people was certainly charming. About 6 hours by bus from Oaxaca, Cuatepec is the center of Veracruz’s coffee growing area and Charly and I visited here to check out the coffee roaster factories…and the coffee. “Not as good as Oaxaca Pluma,” Charly loyally decides. But he finds a cute little 5 pound roaster he will have made and shipped to his home in a small town in B.C. Canada where he is in the coffee business. Charly’s just a friend…don’t get excited!
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One morning, waiting for the coffee shops to open, we found this shoe shine man in the zocalo. Having made friends with the squirrels, he shows off a trick during which he lets a squirrel snatch a peanut from his mouth.
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As he held up his hands about a foot and a half apart, he says he shined the shoes of Arnold Schwarzenegger.

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God Help Oaxaca

April 15th, 2007

On April 11, in a speech memorializing the 88th anniversary of the death of Mexican hero Emiliano Zapata, a leader of the teachers union, Pedro Matias affirmed that the month of May 2007 will bring a series of mobilizations which can include work stoppages at intervals, marches, encampments, and the blocking of public offices on up to a general labor strike, to demand the departure of Governor Ulises Ruiz, freedom for the political prisoners, cancellation of arrest orders and to achieve true justice to make a reality the ideals of Emiliano Zapata.” He said “this is the only way that remains for the people (to fight) against the repression, the impositions, the sacking and the pillage by the state and federal governments.”

I don’t know how long this can go on without even more of a backlash than there already is. As my dentist said, he expects another teacher strike but he doesn’t know if Oaxaca can “resist” another long siege like the last one that lasted 8 months.

A meeting scheduled for April 18 with the federal government is not considered sufficient because the agreements that they signed on October 27, 2006, have not been completely fulfilled. Seven months after signing this agreement, demands such as the rezonification for cost of living and assistance to education, the freedom for the political prisoners and the cancellation of arrest orders against the participants in the popular movement are still pending. And people are still being arrested and disappeared.

After saying that they have had 27 years of struggle and they are not going to renounce the constitutional right to mobilize, the speaker repeated that the state and federal government have had sufficient time to sort out the problems but they have not wanted to do so.”

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Anniversary of Death Of Zapata Today

April 10th, 2007

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Emiliano Zapata (August 8, 1879 – April 10, 1919) was born to Gabriel Zapata and Cleofas Salazar in the small central state of Morelos, in the village of Anenecuilco (modern-day Ayala municipality). He was of mixed Spanish and indigenous ancestry. He spoke the indigenous language Nahuatl and was recognized as a leading figure of the largely indigenous Nahua community of Anenecuilco.

A former sharecropper, Zapata became involved in struggles for the rights of the Indians of Morelos. When unrest finally broke out resulting in the Mexican Revolution, Zapata quickly took an important role, becoming the general of a guerrila army that formed in Morelos – the Ejército Libertador del Sur (Liberation Army of the South). Joining forces with Pancho Villa and others to fight the government of Porfirio Diaz, Zapata supported agrarian reform and land redistribution. His rallying cry was “Land And Freedom” (Tierra Y Libertad) sometimes translated as “Land And Justice.”

Though Diaz was defeated, Zapata continued to resist subsequent government leaders. He was ambushed and shot by Mexican troops on April 10 1919.

Zapata remains a folk hero in Mexico, where his name has often been invoked by rebels like the Zapatista Subcommander Marcos. He is often credited with the phrase “It is better to die on your feet than to live on your knees” and graffiti to this effect was often seen on buildings in Oaxaca during the teacher strike. However it is believed that the saying originated with Jose Marti, a leader of the Cuban revolutionary movement. T-shirts with Zapata’s image abound in Oaxaca markets.

There is another march in Oaxaca City today honoring Zapata with all the usual demands.

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AP Correspondent Romero Fired But Damage Done

April 6th, 2007

Those of us who have been living here through the teacher strike have been yelling our heads off about the misreporting of Rebeca Romero on the Associated Press Wire Service that were picked up by local media throughout the United States. Turns out she apparently had a conflict of interest.

Romero’s reporting did damage to tourism here by implying that the streets of Oaxaca were running with blood. The AP said it fired her for her reporting on Oaxaca.

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Hail In Oaxaca!

March 31st, 2007

It was hot as hell today…stayed home and worked on the video footage of a Tajate demonstration of Mica’s mother yesterday. Then at 6pm this! Actually we got hail when I was here last June too…

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A Dongle?

March 31st, 2007

New Luxury tax on internet usage in Thailand

All internet accounts to be taxed with 970 Baht/month. ($235)
Hardware dongle required for internet use

BANGKOK: — The government has announced heavy investment to upgrade Thailand’s international bandwidth, but has introduced an internet tax to help fund investment, and control usage.

The internet tax will be based on bandwidth and would be applied on a graduated scale according to the speed of a users internet connection. The internet luxury tax will be 970 Baht/month for most users.

Foreigners without a work permit and retirees will be required to pay the monthly tax at a higher rate, 1,490 Baht/month. ($361)

Sombat Merou-Ruang, director of the Alien Internet Control Division at CAT headquarters in Bangkok says “foreigners that do not have work in Thailand only hang out on internet forums, visit pornographic sites and other website lamock, different from Thai citizens who mostly use the internet for banking, ecommerce, and furthering their education.” (Right…and I have a bridge in Oaxaca to sell you! Now the bar girls will have to pay more for writing to their johns in Germany or the US of A begging money for their grandmothers’ operation before she dies!}

In addition to the bandwidth tax, an extra usage tax of 490 Baht will be levied on those using Bittorrents and surfing foreign language internet forums.
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Tranquilo Oaxaca?

March 28th, 2007

On Monday morning March 26, I went to my dentist appointment. The dentist was 45 minutes late. She explained there was a taxi strike and she had had to walk to work. The dust in this country is unbelievable and if I wash it myself with a pan of water I have to get on a ladder to reach the roof of the Land Cruiser. So I drove to the Periferico where I knew there to be an automatic car wash. But when I got to the big intersection at the Pemex station, the road was blocked with at least 50 taxis. So couldn’t come back down the same street to get back home. Had to turn right and follow a slow snaking line of cars around neighborhood after neighborhood for an hour to find a way back.
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Dual Pricing

March 27th, 2007

Found a hilarious travel article on Bootnall today about the luxury tax…or dual pricing for foreigners as it is called:

The Luxury Tax – Asia, Europe, South America
By: Adam Jeffries Schwartz
The following is a guide to how the luxury tax is levied, worldwide.

ASIA
China has the highest tax in the region! Charging a hundred times the regular price is typical. If you negotiate at all, they will stand two inches in front of your face, and scream You PAY, you PAY NOW.

Note: Exactly!!!
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Atenco Foreshadowed Oaxaca

March 26th, 2007

A brutal repression and massacre of resistors by federal and state police in the small city of Atenco, 15 miles south of Mexico City, in May of 2006, foreshadowed the repression that was to follow June through November 2006 in Oaxaca. Government forces were attempting to crack down on some flower vendors that they assumed were associated with activists demonstrating against government acquisition of communal land for an airport. A “>video on YouTube is the best (graphic) depiction and explanation by analysts and historians that I have seen so far…with English subtitles…of the machinations the government has historically used in Mexico:

A Mexican-American friend who was a student in 1968 in Guadalajara, told me that when students were demonstrating in the soccer stadium in Mexico City , police snipers killed some soldiers to make it look like the students had done the shooting. Immediately, police opened fire on the students…killing hundreds.

In July 1975 the army evicted squatters from a section of Oaxaca City, herded them into buses and imprisoned them overnight while what remained behind was burned. According to Murphy and Stepick in Social Inequality in Oaxaca…a History of Resistance and Change 1991 “the state director of the federal public works agency masterminded the invasion in order to increase his political power by recruiting support among the urban masses (against the demands of the poor). The director’s plan had been to convince the owner of a large tract of land to relinquish a portion of it in exchange for the introduction of streets and water on the remainder of his extensive holdings. The agency’s director used university students with ties to the Communist Youth Party as intermediaries to implement the plan.”

Sounds familiar. A plan sure of alienating the middle class from the dissenters.

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Taco Surprise

March 23rd, 2007

Yesterday, after a leisurely visit over coffee at the Nueva Mundo coffee shop in the Centro with Sharon, I drove out to Plaza del Valle, past the University, to Oaxaca City’s northern style shopping plaza which is newish…built within the last five years anyway…which sports a Burger King, Office Depot, Sam’s Club, Sears, Pizza Hut and a street full of upscale car sales showrooms, grocery stores, a movie multiplex, a French department store much like Nordstroms…even a Blockbuster video rental outlet. Not what you think of when you think of Oaxaca is it?

A few days earlier, I had taken Joe to Mailboxes Inc, to pick up a shipping box for his return to Chicago in April. Parked in front, I figured, oh the car will be alright so the one and only time I have my car unlocked in Mexico, for less than five minutes, guess what happens? Some guys sitting on the sidewalk (maybe waiting for a suspect) lifted my car tool bag out of the back! So off to Sears to buy a new set of jumper cables after which I wandered through the mall in search of lunch.

In the food court, I stopped at a taco stall and ordered tacos with those fantastic green onions that taste so sweet after they have been charred on the grill. An order included six tacos for $1.60. Not realizing they were only about five inches in diameter I said, oh, muchos tacos! The girl responded with quite a bit of espanol rapido… ending with the words “medio de orden” or half an order. Ok. Sounded good. When the girl set the food in front of me I see a styrofoam plate with six grilled green onions and a few wedges of limon. “No tacos?” I ask. She made a half sign with her hands. So I had half an order…the half with the onions!

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Straight Talk From New Mexican Ambassador

March 23rd, 2007

Mexican Envoy Highly Critical of U.S. Role in Anti-Drug Effort

By Karen DeYoung
Washington Post Staff Writer
Friday, March 23, 2007; Page A11

The United States has contributed “zilch” to Mexico’s efforts to combat the nations’ joint problem with criminal narcotics gangs, Mexico’s new ambassador to Washington said yesterday.

“We are going to need significantly more in cooperation from the United States,” Ambassador Arturo Sarukhan said, including increased aid and intelligence and stepped-up U.S. efforts to stop the southward flow of weapons, laundered money and chemicals for the production of methamphetamines.
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Although Calderon played the gracious host during President Bush’s visit to Mexico this month, Sarukhan said that Mexico is seeking a more businesslike relationship with the United States than the previous Mexican president, Vicente Fox, had with Bush. Although Bush and Fox pledged to have a close friendship and progress on immigration and trade issues, “at the end of his tenure, [Fox] had nothing to show for it,” the ambassador said.

Calderon is “not trying to distance himself” from Bush, Sarukhan said, “but he wants to send a message that, before the hugs, before the fireworks, he actually needs to be able to prove to the Americans and to Mexicans” that the relationship can produce tangible results.

Rather than raise “false expectations,” he said, “let’s prove that we have the ability to move” forward on the long list of outstanding issues between the two countries. “Then we’ll become buddies,” Sarukhan added.

A career diplomat who served as Calderon’s campaign and transition adviser on foreign policy, Sarukhan holds a master’s degree in U.S. foreign policy from Johns Hopkins University’s School of Advanced International Studies in Washington.
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Where Are The Bracero Payments?

March 20th, 2007

The “braceros” were a huge group of Mexicans allowed into the United States on special work visas between 1942 and 1964 to allow Mexican workers to replace Americans who had entered WWII. Most of the braceros worked in agriculture but many others found work in construction and even in manufacturing facilities.

The US government withheld 10% of each worker’s income for purposes of Social Security benefits, then turned that money over to the Mexican government for future payment to the braceros. What do you think happened to all that money?

That’s right, it disappeared.
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Family of Brad Will To Visit Oaxaca

March 18th, 2007

Family of Murdered Independent Journalist Brad Will to Visit Mexico City and Oaxaca

According to a press release issued by the family of Bradley Roland Will, the independent US photojournalist shot and killed last October 27th in Oaxaca, they will visit Mexico from March 19th to March 23rd, 2007. The purpose of the Will family’s visit is to push for a legitimate investigation into Brad’s murder and to insist that the responsible parties be held accountable.

The family says they hope that their inquiry will help at least 20 other families who are seeking justice for their murdered relatives.

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Watching Calderon

March 18th, 2007

“I know I am running risks, confronting strong forces,” he said on the presidential jet. “But I think the key to life is to live it intensely.”

He is making many promises as did Fox. And no mention of taxes. We’ll see.

These are bits from the International Herald Tribune today about Calderon’s presidency 100 days after the Dec 1 election that many here consider fraudulent:

“I enjoy my work as president,” he said during an interview aboard his official jet on Friday, his eyes bright behind rimless, technocrat glasses. “With all the problems and tensions, which are enormous, I am fulfilling a personal dream for which I have prepared all my life.”

The new president cracked down on violent protests that were tearing apart the colonial city of Oaxaca.

(Note: the only violence in the city was perpetrated by government thugs who have killed upwards of 20 people. The protests were peaceful.)

He has sent troops and federal agents into several states to combat drug cartels. He also extradited several high-level drug kingpins to the United States.

And this week he took a strong stand in meetings with President George W. Bush, re-establishing Mexico’s historic diplomatic neutrality in the region and firmly criticizing the United States for its immigration policies.
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Largest Drug Raid in History…in Mexico

March 17th, 2007

The LA Times reports today from MEXICO CITY — Authorities confiscated more than $200 million in U.S. currency from methamphetamine producers in one of this city’s ritziest neighborhoods, they said Friday, calling it the largest drug cash seizure in history.

The seizure reflected the vast scope of an illegal drug trade linking Asia, Mexico and the United States, officials said. Two of the seven people arrested Thursday at a faux Mediterranean villa in the Lomas de Chapultepec neighborhood were Chinese nationals.

The group was part of a larger drug-trafficking organization that imports “precursor chemicals” from companies in India and China for processing into methamphetamine in Mexican “super labs,” authorities said. The methamphetamine is eventually sold in the United States.

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Where Are The “Disappeared?”

March 17th, 2007

Latest news in Oaxaca:

The Comisión Nacional de los Derechos Humanos, CNDH has formally confirmed that the “violence” in Oaxaca was carried out by the ministerial, state and federal police troops, thereby agreeing with the complaints of the APPO regarding violations of human and civil rights. The commission acknowledges “excessive use of public force.” 20 dead…366 arrested…381 wounded. It does not mention the disappeared. There was torture, arbitrary arrest, executions, irregular judicial procedures, etcetera. -all against citizens who were either in the wrong place a the wrong time, or engaging in their right to march and protest.
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Zocalo At Night

March 17th, 2007

Intimidating, the Governor thought the tourists would feel safer with them there…among other political reasons.

Gone from the Zocalo are the PFP with their menacing night sticks and bullet-proof vests and their rifles and sidearms…for shooting and for tear gas. Although the night before, Steve said, a large group of State police were gathered at one corner of the Zocalo…apparently responding to a rumor.

Gone are the teachers and the banners including one huge picture of Marx, Engles, Trotsky…and STALIN! Always meant to go up and ask the kids under the banner if they knew anything about Stalin who killed 30,000 of my husband’s German compatriots in the Ukraine by forced starvation. And that was the least of it. People buried food to give them a little extra time before the expected end. I have been unable to trace any remaining relatives through genealogy channels any further back than Bob’s grandfather who immigrated into Saskachewan Canada and then North Dakota.

Last night, balmy and breezy, Steve, Oscar and Ana’s mother and boyfriend and I took a leisurely walk to the people-filled Zocalo for dinner at the Jardin. The Oaxacan cheese-stuffed chili rellenos with salsa roja was a D. Every night there is entertainment…last night, about 10pm, after a music recital, just as we were leaving, they were setting up for dancing within a large circle of chairs. The restaurant’s marimba players were hauling out their instruments for another evening in front of the sidewalk tables. A hilarious clown was readying his routine.
A bit afraid we might get pulled in to be the straight guys, we headed home. Besides Oscar was tired and that means trouble.

I shall have to venture out more at night before the teachers return for their annual strike in May. Besides, back in the States, there will be no more late night/early morning forays into the lovely lively outdoors…unless you live in New York City in the summer.

One thing I want to know, though, is why the roosters never know what time it is in Oaxaca!

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Tlacalula Again

March 16th, 2007

When Jennifer got in the car she looked at me and asked if I used to go to the Beanery coffee house in Salem where she worked at one time. Of course I had.

Michael and Jennifer from Portland Oregon visited Oaxaca last week. So at the request of my Canadian friend Charly, who met Michael on a coffee home roast web site, I took them to Huayapam to meet Mica and Bardo. But first we visited the Tlacalula Sunday Market. I’m getting pretty good at this. They bought mucha mescal for gifts and I bought two liters for my mescal barrel.

One afternoon I showed them several of my videos I made of the teacher strike here in Oaxaca…and a couple more of the Day Of The Dead and Charly’s going away party which they seemed to enjoy,

They were only here four days…the last one Michael spent in bed with what we think was altitude sickness…Portland being just a little above sea level and Oaxaca being more than 5000 feet! I took them to the airport Sunday where they were bound for Mexico City and then home. I now have two bottles of real maple syrup, two bottles of especial Oregon Pinot Noir wine and a lot more jazz music for my computer. Thanks Michael and Jennifer!

Sunday I pick up another family (via Charly again) at the airport and take them to Huayapam where they are looking for land to build a house. I think Bardo is getting spoiled with all this Sunday company! And even though I always arrive with an armload of food and mescal, Mica is a saint for doing all the cooking!

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Violence “Worries” The Pope

March 10th, 2007

Today’s big headline in the Oaxaca Noticias says Preocupa al Papa la violencia en Oaxaca (The violence in Oaxaca worries the Pope). Oh, really?

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Protesting Donald Trump With Poise

March 10th, 2007

More on the beauty pageant to be staged at Monte Alban:

Auditions to be Held April 18 in New York City Toward a Protest with Poise Aimed at Donald Trump and NBC

By Cha-Cha Connor
Spokesmodel, Popular Assembly of Models for Oaxaca

“In solidarity with the APPO of Oaxaca – Models of the world, unite! Be a part of the most attractive picket protest in history! Join us in New York City on April 18th to audition for the most stylish, the most poised, and the most elegant picket line that Donald Trump and NBC have ever seen.

In May 2007, the Donald Trump Organization and NBC plan to impose the “traditional costume” competition of the world-renowned Miss Universe pageant in the sacred ruins of Monte Albán, Oaxaca. In that same month, local teachers and social movements will be marching in Oaxaca City, as they have each month of May for the past quarter-century, for jobs, dignity, and, for the past year, the fall of the dictator Ulises Ruiz, who now thinks he can use models to justify calling in the police, and brutalizing the teachers in the month of their march.

But we supermodels won’t let it happen. We models aren’t the cheap props of dictators.

For this reason, we have formed the international movement of Supermodels for Oaxaca (APMO, in its Spanish initials). Audition on April 18th to be part of the only social movement that will topple tyranny with beauty and poise – and the only red carpet picket line worth auditioning for.
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10th Oaxaca MegaMarch

March 10th, 2007

Maria and I missed the 10th Megamarch in observance of International Women’s Day March 8. Probably just as well because Maria is mega cautious. Instead, we went to Teotitlan again in search of rugs for her daughter.

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Slim’s Pickings in Mexico

March 9th, 2007

My Mexican cell phone air time is astronomically expensive. My Mexican friends have resorted to text-messaging…a few pesos cheaper than calls.

The TV stations are controlled by one man…and the news they give by the government.

Wonder why much of the graffiti on the walls of Oaxaca’s buildings decry the capitalist system? Here’s part of the reason:

$49 billion is Slim’s pickings in Mexico
By Marla Dickerson, LA Times Staff Writer
March 9, 2007

MEXICO CITY — Telecom mogul Carlos Slim Helu has built a corporate empire so vast that it’s nearly impossible for most Mexicans to go a day without slipping a few pesos into his pocket.

Those pesos add up. On Thursday, Forbes magazine estimated his net worth at $49 billion.

That represented a stunning $19-billion increase from 2006, the biggest one-year jump in a decade for anyone on the magazine’s annual list of the world’s richest people.
——
Although his third-place ranking (Forbes Magazine) didn’t change from 2006, he increased his wealth by 63%. That’s a growth rate of $2.2 million an hour.

When Mexicans talk on the phone or use the Internet, they’re almost certainly doing it through a company controlled by Slim, who in 1990 bought control of the old state-owned telephone company Telefonos de Mexico, or Telmex, and turned it into a cash machine. Profits from that near-monopoly have bankrolled Slim’s telecom acquisitions around the region, propelling his America Movil wireless spinoff into the largest provider of cellphone service in Latin America.
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Bob, Josh and Luk In Bangkok

March 7th, 2007

My son Josh is Chef de Cuisine of “One East On Third” in the Hilton Hotel in Beijing. He was sent by the Executive Chef to Bangkok last week to check out some restaurants there. Luk, a delightful Thai girl who is married to our son Doug, had been visiting Bob at his rental house south of Pattaya so Bob, took Luk with him to Bangkok to join Josh. (Doug is currently in Oregon and will return to Thailand in a couple weeks.) This was the first time Josh met his sister-in-law, Luk.

This is Bob’s description of the visit…made me salivate reading about the Thai food!

“Josh missed his scheduled flight to BKK so arrived one day late. I extended my stay to allow for an overlap. He had hotel and culinary related meetings but we shared a few meals and today roamed around Chatuchak Market which he seemed to enjoy.

Josh let me choose the restaurants. I was the tour guide. (Although Josh has been to Bangkok many times!) He ate his evening meals with the Hilton folks first night and his second night at the Four Seasons. I think they had steaks at the Hilton as Josh’s hierarchy wants him to offer more steaks at the restaurant. Steak apparently is in demand in Beijing.

When we went out I gave him the option of streetside or upscale. We settled on Jim Thompson’s restaurant on Soi Saladang (we ate there before.) Had pomolo salad, gai with lemongrass , shrimp in a coconut curry, a fish souffle and morning glory in oyster sauce. All quite arroy (delicious) except the chicken. Second day we ate at a sit down restaurant at Chatuchak Market. Had a spicy Thai salad, fresh spring roles and sticky rice with mango and coconut milk. Josh enjoyed the cuisine.

At Chatuchak he purchased many items of Thai motif as his restaurant is going to do some things with a Thai theme. He would buy one item and then plans on having it reproduced in China. I think he wanted to buy more but was limited by what he was capable of carrying.

He appears to be doing well. Both he and Amy, (his wife did not make this trip) are apparently adapting better to cultural deviation. He says that Amy’s sudden unemployment left gaps that have resolved with her new job teaching history in an international school. They will return to Thailand in May to spend time in BKK again and then venture down to Samui where Doug and Luk live.

Luk was traveling with this huge suitcase (with wheels fortunately) that she could not lift. When going to BKK she insisted on high heels that were the stilletto variety with a single small strap across the forefoot. If you can recall BKK’s sidewalks and then picture her trying to get on and off skytrains and navigating all on the cobblestones and drains etc. Also I ended up with the suitcase as well as booking her hotel room. She remains pleasant company and generates many laughs.

Josh and Luk

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Mescal And Lamb With Consumme

March 7th, 2007

10am Sunday morning, one of the mescal vendors at the Tlacalula Market latched onto Maria and I with a dozen sample cups of mescal..from Mango Crema to the rare Tuvala Agave…after which we made an imperative beeline to the food section. At a long communal table we scarfed barrega (lamb) soup while visiting with a friendly old compesino from the mountains.

We bought a bag of chivo (the prized goat meat BBQ’d in the ground) to take to Mica and Bardo’s in Huayapam…and of course a liter pop bottle full of barrel mescal.

On the way back we stopped in Teotitlan where Maria, overwhelmed by the selection of rugs, ended up not choosing any. We will have to make a return trip while she shops around and thinks on it. Before leaving, The Zapotec Gonzalez family demonstrated their natural dye process and demonstrated the weaving of some very complicated designs.

I took a picture of a forest fire in the distance. The pine forests fall victim to the dry season this time of year. I asked Gerardo, my landlord who happened to be there working on a tourism project, how they fight fires here. “No water,” he said…”just chopping the forest around the fire. We have no helicopters.” “Oh yes,” I said, “you can get helicopters from the Governor!” He didn’t think that was very funny. If you remember there were plenty of helicopters available to tear-gas the people in the Centro a few times.

In Huayapam, Mica fixed us, and Bardo’s sister, Pilar, a delicious chicken in coloradito sauce and rice with clams brought by a friend from the coast. Bardo showed us turtle eggs (illegal) but we reneged. Bardo and Mica had worked all day roasting, sorting and bagging coffee…so noticing their yawns, we exited early. But not before their architect friend, Renaldo, showed up with digital images of a house to be built on land adjacent to Bardo’s new house he is building for himself high on a hill overlooking Huayapam. Before we left, we tried to call friend Gerardo, working in Puerto Escondido now, but as usual no tiempo aero (air time) on his phone.
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Graffiti At IAGO Library

March 7th, 2007

Internationally renowned painter, Francisco Toledo, has approved the use of his IAGO art library and the Alvarez Bravo museum for many things-from conferences on the current situation-to the future of Oaxaca. The latest daring move is the recreation on the inside walls of the library of some of the anti-government graffiti that appeared on the city’s outer walls during the seven-month teacher strike. A visitor log contains many anonymous supporting messages from visitors critical of the Governor. However I doubt that many of his supporters will view the installation.
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Arrest Of NYU Professor

March 6th, 2007

He was picked up outside the “Curtaduria,” a space for arts and performance in the next-door barrio of Jalatlaco.

Last week, a professor of German citizenship from New York University was arrested, photographed, finger-printed and interrogated by elements of the State Judicial Police.

It is unclear whether the professor was harassed because he was in town to participate in an international forum on democracy and press freedom in Oaxaca (and Mexico), or as part of an ongoing series of harassments aimed at the Curtaduria itself, where painter Francisco Toledo has sponsored a show considered to be very anti-Ulises Ruiz (the unloved governor of the state). What is clear is that the administration of governor Ruiz is still doing its best –not very successfully – to stop independent observers and media from telling the truth about what is going on here.

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Monte Alban & The Miss Universe Contest

March 6th, 2007

I had worked with my friend Maria, psychologist & nurse practitioner, for some ten years in Oregon. On Saturday February 24 she arrived for a ten day visit with me. I have been leading her all over Oaxaca ever since…beginning with Monte Alban, the Zapotec ruins high on a hill overlooking the city.

Around 500 BC ancestors of Oaxaca’s present day Zapotecs founded what many experts believe to be the Americas’ earliest metropolis. Today the ruins of platforms, pyramids, palaces and ceremonial ball courts still remain…much of it decorated with inscriptions in a language yet to be deciphered, recording the exploits of their god-kings. Monte Alban flourished as a city for a millenium with as many as 40,000 people at it’s height. The city was repeatedly reconstructed over the centuries, like a peeling onion, first by the Olmecs, two periods of Zapotecs and finally succumbing to the Mixtecs by A.D. 1000 who used it mainly as a burial ground.

So it is with anguish that Oaxacans are anticipating the besmirching of this ancient site. Mexico’s national tourist bureau has decided to hold the “costume competition” phase of the annual Miss Universe contest at the Zapotec shrine of Monte Alban in May.
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Protestor In The Zocalo Fountain

March 6th, 2007

Last Friday Ana and Steve saw a man take off his clothes down to his shorts and climb into one of the fountains in the Zocalo. I got a call from Ana: “Eunice get down here with your camera!”

it didn’t take very long before two municipal police told him to get out. He carried a sign that said, “señor gobernador, necesitamos agua.” He was from Santa Ana-one of the many communities and colonias here that have no supply of water at this time of year. When the drought kicks in people have water trucked in to fill cisterns…just as we do in the Centro.

Unfortunately, just as I arrived, a group of 5 officers talked the man out of the fountain, watched as he got himself dressed again, and then calmly escorted him away in their truck. So no photos. He probably will be beaten.

Why is it that we can have fountains running, but people don’t have water for washing??

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Seeing Red Over Mao in Alhambra

February 24th, 2007

Values in China today are only carried forward by the culture largely as a result of the destruction of ethical and civic standards wrought by Mao during the Cultural Revolution. In other words, in my experience, there is generally no honor given in China today for verbal or written contracts and the visitor will find him or herself at the mercy of Chinese pragmatism.

In China today portraits of Mao are everywhere and due to the controlled press few Chinese know the truth of their own modern history. And I am horrified when I hear “Maoism” being bandied about…even here in Oaxaca Mexico!

To understand how this came about, to understand the ability of the Chinese to dupe Westerners and to understand the anger of the Chinese community in Alhambra over the hanging of Warhol-like images of Mao you can read the 1995 “Mao: The Unknown Story,” an 832-page biography of Mao written by the husband and wife team of historians, Jon Halliday and Jung Chang who herself was a Red Guard during the Revolution. It depicts Mao Zedong, the former paramount leader of China and Chairman of the Communist Party of China, as being responsible for mass murder (upwards of 30-70 million people) on a scale greater than that committed under the rule of Adolf Hitler or Joseph Stalin.
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Contemplating Going “Home”

February 23rd, 2007

I was quickly stopped by a policeman. “Have you been drinking? Have you been smoking pot? Your eyes are all red! Then he made me stand, in high heels, on one foot and count to forty. Then follow his finger moving back and forth with my eyes. Then he let me, shaken, go.

Last time I got off the plane in Portland from almost a year in Asia, I found myself jet-lagged and completely disoriented…driving on the “wrong” side of the road.

Found this blog by a Chinese-American on Bootsnall. He is probably much younger but his experience is none-the-less very similar to mine.

Coming Home: Sharks Also Need Constant Motion
By: Jeffrey Lee

“Coming home meant coming down. It was easier to stay up. I’d return home to piles of bills and an empty refrigerator. Buying groceries, I’d get lost – too many aisles, too many choices; cool mist blowing over fresh fruit; paper or plastic; cash back in return? I’d wanted emotion but couldn’t find it here, so I settled for motion.

Out at night, weaving through traffic, looking for trouble, I’d lose myself in crowds. Gaggles of girls with fruit-colored drinks talked about face products and film production. I’d see their lips move, look at their snapshot smiles and highlighted hair. I didn’t know what to say.
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Following Trouble?

February 21st, 2007

Good grief! Either I am following trouble around the world or trouble is following me! First a violent demonstration on a university campus in Istanbul…then the tsunami in Thailand…then the coup in Thailand…then the subway strike in New York City…then the teacher strike in Oaxaca and now this just as I am planning on returning this fall. Or maybe it’s just that there is always trouble all over the world!

Security in Bangkok To Be Tightened
Bangkok Post 2007-02-21
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Watching The Chinese

February 20th, 2007

A local newspaper in Borneo reported another logging agreement. China had just placed a rush order for 800,000 cubic meters of wood to be used in the construction of its sports facilities for the 2008 Olympic Games. Authorities are planning on cutting as much as four to five million acres of trees in the future.

In other news, China needs the Sudan’s oil and gas so it is blocking the UN from sending peacekeepers to help stop the genocide. On top of that China is forgiving the Sudan it’s debt and lending, interest free, money to the President of Sudan to build a personal palace…among other sickening things.

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Solitude In The Sierra Norte

February 20th, 2007

In search of a little alone time yesterday, I drove 40 miles (but two hours) north of Oaxaca City up into lush, pine-clad crests descending deep into river canyons to the Sierra Juarez, the birth-land of Benito Juarez, Oaxaca’s beloved favorite son.

Born in 1806 in the municipio of San Pablo Guelatao in the village of Santo Tomas Ixtlan, his parents died tragically when Benito was three. His uncle took him in and his childhood was spent mostly herding his uncle’s flocks in the surrounding hills. But Benito left for Oaxaca city in 1818 to live with his sister in the genteel, well-to-do Maza family where his sister worked as a cook. He gained exposure to music, books, politics and people that was not possible for a poor boy in the country. He ended up studying law and eventually entered politics…rising from state to federal legislator, then Supreme Court judge, and finally was unanimously elected governor by Oaxaca’s legislature in 1849. He was elected Mexico’s president for three terms…interrupted first by civil war and then by the French Intervention. He toiled day and night to realize his dreams for Mexico but died “from exhaustion” in 1872.

I stopped in nearby Ixtlan de Juarez, quickly perused the small rotating Monday market but skipped the huge baroque church built with fortunes made with slave labor growing cochineal (used to make the magnificent red dye) where I would have seen this:
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Wedding In Teotitlan del Camino

February 20th, 2007

My friend Bardo is from Teotitlan del Camino near the Puebla border and his parents, three brothers and a sister still live there. Bardo’s father, Don Bardo, a furniture maker, and Dona Mari raised six children in their big open-air three story house in this town of 6000 so there was plenty of room for all of us who made the four-hour trip: me, Ana and Oscar from next door, Bardo’s wife Mica and her two children, Pavel and Angelita and Bardo’s sister Pilar. At the last minute Bardo didn’t go and missed the trip entirely.

We took the four lane Mexico City toll highway NE to Tehuacan and then through Puebla back down into Oaxaca again to Teotitlan del Camino (or de Flores Magon) and Pilar drove ahead with Pavel so that we could follow – which did us no good as I drove faster than she did. When it was time to leave the carretera Mica directed us to Miahuatlan instead of the road to Teotitlan so we ended up detouring slowly on pot-holed dirt roads through a couple tiny scenic villages…San Sebastian and Coxcatlan, the birthplace of corn…which was fine with me.
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CoCo’s Cantina

February 17th, 2007

The last time Max partook of his Brandy Presses at Cocos, a working man’s bar with classic swinging louvered half-doors near his apartment, he met with an altercation with a burly self-professed “communist” Mexican who insisted on appropriating Max’s drink. Max is a gringo…spread the wealth…I guess was this guy’s thinking. But Max, who subsists on a small social security check, was not to be outdone. It ended up with Delia, the bartender, who is incidently quite a lovely woman, walking Max home…cane and all. Embarrassed, Max had not been back for several weeks. So one night this week Steven from next door and I met Max at CoCo’s to help out with his reentry. Max is a great storyteller and the evening was enjoyed by all…if it just wasn’t for the music they apparently assumed would be our preference. We laughed when the minute the bill was settled up they switched to Mexican rancheros. We will have to let them know next time that we really didn’t come to Mexico to listen to old sappy American soft rock especially when we can revel to the happy sounds of drunken Mexican sing-alongs…and that high-pitched “campesino yodel” as I call it. Am going to have to find out what the Mexicans call it…certainly not a “yodel.”

Yesterday I watched “Babel” on my computer…borders and boundaries…subjects I could certainly relate to. Now I’m getting history in the HBO series…”Rome.”

This morning Bardo, Mica, Pavel and Angelita and Steven, Ana and little Oscar and I are driving to Teotitlan del Camino, a small village up by the Puebla border, for a “la boda”…a Mexican blow-out wedding celebration over the weekend. We are taking a hundred dollars worth of Tequila. If I stop blogging someone send out the Green Angels.

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The Looming Tower

February 15th, 2007

Have recently finished the acclaimed “The Looming Tower” by Lawrence Wright which is a history of Islamic radical fundamentalism beginning in the 1930’s and 40’s and ending with the bombing of the World Trade Center. Including the ridiculous and ultimately tragic machinations of the CIA and FBI, it reads like an unbelievable novel…and it left me drained and feeling hopeless.

The Christian Science Monitor reported today that Al-Qaida said in its monthly magazine posted on an Islamic web site that “cutting oil supplies to the United States, or at least curtailing it, would contribute to the ending of the American occupation of Iraq and Afghanistan.” The group said it was making the statements as part of Osama bin Laden’s declared policy. It was not possible to verify independently that the posting was from the terror faction, said the Monitor.

Al-Qaida claimed responsibility for last year’s attacks on oil installations in Saudi Arabia and Yemen after bin Laden called on militants to stop the flow of oil to the West. The group also was behind the 2002 attack on a French oil tanker that killed one person in the Gulf of Aden, according to the paper.

Also reported today was that Egypt has arrested nearly 80 members of the Muslim Brotherhood.

What really frightened me recently was the sight of a young artist, on his knees in front of Santo Domingo, working on a gigantic poster of Bin Laden. It was never put up because the next day the PFP routed and burned the planton in the Santo Domingo Plaza.

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What Now For Oaxaca?

February 12th, 2007

Local analysts argue about whether the causes of the popular social movement here in Oaxaca are utter corruption and the history of political bossism by the PRI party, the effects of transnational/neoliberal policies created by NAFTA, the lack of economic development by federal and state authorities…or just plain infighting between any and all political and social groups.

In Oaxaca State, the main employer has been the government.

Outside of Oaxaca City the lost jobs are mainly in agriculture and that results in a huge migration to the US and Canada. The Isthmus is in an uproar over the wind farms. They were “rented” by intermediaries who gave the local owners next to nothing (100 pesos annually per hectare) and then turned around and rented the land to the transnationals at hefty prices. They are making grand profits while the local people are left behind.

This last weekend the APPO met, while other APPO activists are in Mexico City or the USA or Europe or somewhere, trying to get support. The biggest decision now has to do with how to approach the elections.
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A Typical Sunday in Oaxaca

February 12th, 2007

Made another trip to the Tlacalula Sunday Market last week with my next door neighbors Ana, Steve and little Oscar. Bought some carved coconut shell halves made for drinking our wonderful Mexican chocolate and then in my impending senility just walked off and left them on the table…not the first time this has happened. But with my new telescopic lens I did get some nice long shots of some of the colorful women vendors that come down out of the Sierra mountains to sell their turkeys, baskets, vegetable produce etc. They don’t like their pictures taken…not respectful. And they often feel that to have their picture taken means that their spirit is stolen…so have to be surreptitious.

Then we tried to find the little town of San Marcos high on a hill west of Tlacalula. After wending back and forth through Maguay, vegetable fields and pastures on dirt paths (could hardly call them roads) and with a little direction from a shy old campesino in a checkered shirt and white straw hot and with a wooden stick in his hand for herding a few cattle, we finally see before us a large green sign: “Servicios de Salud de Oaxaca. San Marcos Tlapazola, Tlacolula.”

As we slowly enter the tiny town we see an older guy sitting on the steps of a tienda…seemingly asleep with his head draped down his chest…but we think it was the tranquilizing effects of his afternoon mescal. Winding our way up a hill above the town for a few great pictures we come across a group of giggling women and girls standing in their Sunday best in front of a covered plaza. “Get their picture,” I urge Ana but when she pulls out the camera they all run back through the gates laughing…ignoring the exhortations of a group of men and boys on the roof above. Shyly peeking around the corner they tell Ana there is a wedding that day. On the way back through the town we see another plaza full of people. I stop to look. Two cute young girls walk up to the car and ask our names and where we are from. They were also celebrating the wedding…their primo (cousin). A couple of men drinking mescal next to them joined in on the conversation…in English. It is not uncommon to find old men speaking the English they learned during their norteno migrations. The young ones are all up north…the small villages nearly empty. It was a Sunday and all the vendors were in Tlacalula so we will have to return one week-day to buy some unglazed pottery that the women are famous for in this town of San Marcos.

On our way back to Oaxaca City we stopped by Mica and Bardo’s in Huayapam armed with beer and the makings for white russians. Mica cooked up a great cena and I gave her a cd I burned of an Italian singer that is popular in Brazil…Ornella Vanoni. I had used one of her songs, “L’Appuntamento” (also made popular in the US by the soundtrack of Oceans 11) in a video I made of our trip to Hierve el Agua and Mica had asked for more of her music. Later four men friends from Puerto Escondido stopped by…a typical Sunday at Mica and Bardo’s.

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Crack Down on Mexico’s Crackdowns

February 5th, 2007

Last Saturday, in Oaxaca City’s Centro, I watched the 9th MegaMarch enter the Plaza de la Danza. They had walked five miles in sweltering heat from the airport. The teachers and their supporters are letting people know their demands are not over by a long shot.

Today the respected Christian Science Monitor posted this article online:

President Calderón must improve human rights by reining in abusive police.

By Robert M. Press
OAXACA, MEXICO – Before he was tied up, thrown in the back of a truck, and tortured in prison, Gonzalo heard words he’ll never forget. “The poor will always be poor and the rich will always be rich,” a police officer taunted. “So why don’t you go home and abandon your struggle.”
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What The Tourists Don’t See In Oaxaca

February 5th, 2007

In December, Hilaria Cruz interviewed Dionisio.
Translation: Joy Turlo

Dionisio had gone to the demonstration in Oaxaca on the 25th of November. After the demonstration he and his friend Juan de Dios went to get something to eat, during which time confrontations started up between demonstrators and the Federal Preventive Police (PFP). Upon leaving the restaurant, they headed toward the downtown area, which had become filled with tear gas and smoke. When they saw a woman and her children overcome by tear gas, Dionisio stopped to help, while Juan de Dios photographed the situation around them, and that was when the two men were arrested.
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Khmer Rouge Trials

February 2nd, 2007

Ever since visiting the killing fields in Cambodia in 2002, (for pictures click on the category for Cambodia on the right-hand side of the screen) I have watched closely the development of an international tribunal that hopefully will try the remaining Khmer Rouge killers of as many as 1.7 million Cambodians from 1975 to 1979. Anyone who was educated…even wore eyeglasses…was targeted in the interest of blasting Cambodia back to the stone age and creating an agrarian society, leaving Cambodia one of the most destitute and corrupted countries in the world today. So much for ideas. Pol Pot, the Khmer Rouge’s despotic leader, died a free man in 1998. Many of the remaining Khmer Rouge leaders, including Nuon Chea, Pol Pot’s chief deputy known as “Brother Number Two,” are aged.
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Learning Spanish Amid “False Normalcy”

January 29th, 2007

Have been taking Spanish lessons in one of the local schools…Amigos del Sol. Three hours a day sitting in a chair. Only one other student in my classes so I can’t space out. Present, past and future. I have memorized them but try recalling which verb ending you need in a conversation! Practice, practice, practice, Rojelio, the school’s director, tells me. So I am taking a couple weeks off to talk to Mexicans. One of my Spanish teachers says Miles Davis is his favorite jazz musician. He says it is very difficult finding jazz music here so I burned some CD’s of Miles and John Coltrane who he had never heard of. Will be interesting to get his reaction.

I am having the brakes checked on my car. Coming down out of the Sierra Norte a few weeks ago the brakes got hot and my foot hit the floor-board! Next, an appointment to have my teeth cleaned. Trying to get ahold of Josh and Amy in Beijing…and check up on Doug in Oregon. Greg usually returns my calls.

Finally found the right office to inquire about my car having to cross the border at six months. With Ana’s translating help I found out I don’t have to go to Guatemala by Feb 2 as I thought…as long as I have an FM3 year long visa I am ok. Still would like to drive through Chiapas to Guatemala but at least i can do it in my own time. An old friend is threatening to come visit but will believe it when I see it.

We don’t have TV, so often in the evenings when Oscar is in bed, Ana and Steve come over to watch movies with me on my 20″ flat screen that i finally got a connector for. “Does it have English subtitles,” I ask the kid on the street selling bootleg movies for $1.50 each. Oh, yes, he says with great certainty. So yesterday I slide the DVD of “Volver” into the computer and guess what…no English subtitles. Was excited to watch “Little Miss Sunshine” again and for Ana to see it. Dubbed voices! Won’t due having Robert Duvall “speaking” in Spanish! Most of these movies have been made with hand-held camcorders pointed at a movie screen and the audio is terrible. Then there is the problem of opening a case and the movie you thought you purchased is a different one altogether! I can rent legitimate movies at a rental store if I can figure out which titles go with which movies. They retitle movies in Spanish that often have little to do with the commercial title so you have to decipher the Spanish description and look at the names of actors to guess which movie you are renting. “Children of Man” has been renamed an unrecognizable “Sons Of the Men” (Hijos de los Hombres) which is a whole different connotation. “Pointe Blank” becomes “Punto de Quiebra.” Fine distinctions are difficult to translate into Spanish and the same goes for Spanish into English.

Then there is the almost daily fireworks. Yesterday, Sunday, fireworks at 5:30am. What’s the deal I ask Ana. St. Thomas Day she said. Oh.

In the meantime the daily news in the Noticias and La Jornada is not good. Since the APPO was driven out of Oaxaca City, it appears that the Governor’s battle has been moved to the pueblos around the state. It has been reported that about 250 schools are engaged in physical (and sometimes gun) battles over which teachers to allow in their classrooms, a fight involving the CCL, Section 22, Section 59, parents, PRI, etc. While the teachers were on strike, other people, often without credentials, were hired in some schools to take their places. Now there is disagreement as to which teachers should continue teaching. 59 and CCL are the anti-APPO forces.
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Abuses In Oaxaca Go To The Hague

January 12th, 2007

From Prena Latina
Outrageous actovities by Gov. Ulises Ruiz against the Oaxaca social movement will be denounced at The Hague International Court, leaders of the Democratic Revolution Party (PRD) said Wednesday.

PRD deputies at the First National Forum for the Defense of Oaxaca announced they will present the accusations the next week since there are elements to establish principles of crimes against humanity.

They want international judgement on the situation in that southern Mexican state and have summoned 40 witnesses.

Tuesday, attendees at the event heard testimonies of mistreatments, insults, death threats, unhealthy conditions and sexual abuse against those detained on Nov 25 by the Federal Police.

The forum gathers social activists, leaders of non governmental bodies, deputies, senators, relatives of political prisoners, ex-convicts, union representatives and members of the Popular Assembly of the Peoples of Oaxaca.

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