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Tlacalula Again

Friday, March 16th, 2007

When Jennifer got in the car she looked at me and asked if I used to go to the Beanery coffee house in Salem where she worked at one time. Of course I had.

Michael and Jennifer from Portland Oregon visited Oaxaca last week. So at the request of my Canadian friend Charly, who met Michael on a coffee home roast web site, I took them to Huayapam to meet Mica and Bardo. But first we visited the Tlacalula Sunday Market. I’m getting pretty good at this. They bought mucha mescal for gifts and I bought two liters for my mescal barrel.

One afternoon I showed them several of my videos I made of the teacher strike here in Oaxaca…and a couple more of the Day Of The Dead and Charly’s going away party which they seemed to enjoy,

They were only here four days…the last one Michael spent in bed with what we think was altitude sickness…Portland being just a little above sea level and Oaxaca being more than 5000 feet! I took them to the airport Sunday where they were bound for Mexico City and then home. I now have two bottles of real maple syrup, two bottles of especial Oregon Pinot Noir wine and a lot more jazz music for my computer. Thanks Michael and Jennifer!

Sunday I pick up another family (via Charly again) at the airport and take them to Huayapam where they are looking for land to build a house. I think Bardo is getting spoiled with all this Sunday company! And even though I always arrive with an armload of food and mescal, Mica is a saint for doing all the cooking!

Mescal And Lamb With Consumme

Wednesday, March 7th, 2007

10am Sunday morning, one of the mescal vendors at the Tlacalula Market latched onto Maria and I with a dozen sample cups of mescal..from Mango Crema to the rare Tuvala Agave…after which we made an imperative beeline to the food section. At a long communal table we scarfed barrega (lamb) soup while visiting with a friendly old compesino from the mountains.

We bought a bag of chivo (the prized goat meat BBQ’d in the ground) to take to Mica and Bardo’s in Huayapam…and of course a liter pop bottle full of barrel mescal.

On the way back we stopped in Teotitlan where Maria, overwhelmed by the selection of rugs, ended up not choosing any. We will have to make a return trip while she shops around and thinks on it. Before leaving, The Zapotec Gonzalez family demonstrated their natural dye process and demonstrated the weaving of some very complicated designs.

I took a picture of a forest fire in the distance. The pine forests fall victim to the dry season this time of year. I asked Gerardo, my landlord who happened to be there working on a tourism project, how they fight fires here. “No water,” he said…”just chopping the forest around the fire. We have no helicopters.” “Oh yes,” I said, “you can get helicopters from the Governor!” He didn’t think that was very funny. If you remember there were plenty of helicopters available to tear-gas the people in the Centro a few times.

In Huayapam, Mica fixed us, and Bardo’s sister, Pilar, a delicious chicken in coloradito sauce and rice with clams brought by a friend from the coast. Bardo showed us turtle eggs (illegal) but we reneged. Bardo and Mica had worked all day roasting, sorting and bagging coffee…so noticing their yawns, we exited early. But not before their architect friend, Renaldo, showed up with digital images of a house to be built on land adjacent to Bardo’s new house he is building for himself high on a hill overlooking Huayapam. Before we left, we tried to call friend Gerardo, working in Puerto Escondido now, but as usual no tiempo aero (air time) on his phone.
Bardo.jpg

A Typical Sunday in Oaxaca

Monday, February 12th, 2007
Made another trip to the Tlacalula Sunday Market last week with my next door neighbors Ana, Steve and little Oscar. Bought some carved coconut shell halves made for drinking our wonderful Mexican chocolate and then in my impending senility just ... [Continue reading this entry]

Oaxaca Villages

Monday, November 20th, 2006
After getting back from Hierve el Agua last Sunday, I holed up in my apartment for two days. It has gotten really cold and windy. There is no heat in the apartment so I turn on the oven ... [Continue reading this entry]

Market In Tlacolula

Monday, June 19th, 2006
oaxacacentralmap.jpg Yesterday my friend Sharon and I hopped a diesel-spewing bus for the hour ride to Tlacolula, southeast of the city, where vendors from multiple little villages around the Oaxaca Valley come on Sundays to ... [Continue reading this entry]