BootsnAll Travel Network



Archive for the 'Mexico' Category

« Home

What Now For Oaxaca?

Monday, February 12th, 2007

Local analysts argue about whether the causes of the popular social movement here in Oaxaca are utter corruption and the history of political bossism by the PRI party, the effects of transnational/neoliberal policies created by NAFTA, the lack of economic development by federal and state authorities…or just plain infighting between any and all political and social groups.

In Oaxaca State, the main employer has been the government.

Outside of Oaxaca City the lost jobs are mainly in agriculture and that results in a huge migration to the US and Canada. The Isthmus is in an uproar over the wind farms. They were “rented” by intermediaries who gave the local owners next to nothing (100 pesos annually per hectare) and then turned around and rented the land to the transnationals at hefty prices. They are making grand profits while the local people are left behind.

This last weekend the APPO met, while other APPO activists are in Mexico City or the USA or Europe or somewhere, trying to get support. The biggest decision now has to do with how to approach the elections.
[read on]

A Typical Sunday in Oaxaca

Monday, February 12th, 2007

Made another trip to the Tlacalula Sunday Market last week with my next door neighbors Ana, Steve and little Oscar. Bought some carved coconut shell halves made for drinking our wonderful Mexican chocolate and then in my impending senility just walked off and left them on the table…not the first time this has happened. But with my new telescopic lens I did get some nice long shots of some of the colorful women vendors that come down out of the Sierra mountains to sell their turkeys, baskets, vegetable produce etc. They don’t like their pictures taken…not respectful. And they often feel that to have their picture taken means that their spirit is stolen…so have to be surreptitious.

Then we tried to find the little town of San Marcos high on a hill west of Tlacalula. After wending back and forth through Maguay, vegetable fields and pastures on dirt paths (could hardly call them roads) and with a little direction from a shy old campesino in a checkered shirt and white straw hot and with a wooden stick in his hand for herding a few cattle, we finally see before us a large green sign: “Servicios de Salud de Oaxaca. San Marcos Tlapazola, Tlacolula.”

As we slowly enter the tiny town we see an older guy sitting on the steps of a tienda…seemingly asleep with his head draped down his chest…but we think it was the tranquilizing effects of his afternoon mescal. Winding our way up a hill above the town for a few great pictures we come across a group of giggling women and girls standing in their Sunday best in front of a covered plaza. “Get their picture,” I urge Ana but when she pulls out the camera they all run back through the gates laughing…ignoring the exhortations of a group of men and boys on the roof above. Shyly peeking around the corner they tell Ana there is a wedding that day. On the way back through the town we see another plaza full of people. I stop to look. Two cute young girls walk up to the car and ask our names and where we are from. They were also celebrating the wedding…their primo (cousin). A couple of men drinking mescal next to them joined in on the conversation…in English. It is not uncommon to find old men speaking the English they learned during their norteno migrations. The young ones are all up north…the small villages nearly empty. It was a Sunday and all the vendors were in Tlacalula so we will have to return one week-day to buy some unglazed pottery that the women are famous for in this town of San Marcos.

On our way back to Oaxaca City we stopped by Mica and Bardo’s in Huayapam armed with beer and the makings for white russians. Mica cooked up a great cena and I gave her a cd I burned of an Italian singer that is popular in Brazil…Ornella Vanoni. I had used one of her songs, “L’Appuntamento” (also made popular in the US by the soundtrack of Oceans 11) in a video I made of our trip to Hierve el Agua and Mica had asked for more of her music. Later four men friends from Puerto Escondido stopped by…a typical Sunday at Mica and Bardo’s.

Crack Down on Mexico’s Crackdowns

Monday, February 5th, 2007
Last Saturday, in Oaxaca City's Centro, I watched the 9th MegaMarch enter the Plaza de la Danza. They had walked five miles in sweltering heat from the airport. The teachers and their supporters are letting people know their demands ... [Continue reading this entry]

What The Tourists Don’t See In Oaxaca

Monday, February 5th, 2007
In December, Hilaria Cruz interviewed Dionisio. Translation: Joy Turlo Dionisio had gone to the demonstration in Oaxaca on the 25th of November. After the demonstration he and his friend Juan de Dios went to get something to eat, during which time confrontations ... [Continue reading this entry]

Learning Spanish Amid “False Normalcy”

Monday, January 29th, 2007
Have been taking Spanish lessons in one of the local schools...Amigos del Sol. Three hours a day sitting in a chair. Only one other student in my classes so I can't space out. Present, past and future. ... [Continue reading this entry]

Abuses In Oaxaca Go To The Hague

Friday, January 12th, 2007
From Prena Latina Outrageous actovities by Gov. Ulises Ruiz against the Oaxaca social movement will be denounced at The Hague International Court, leaders of the Democratic Revolution Party (PRD) said Wednesday. PRD deputies at the First National Forum for the Defense of ... [Continue reading this entry]

New Year’s In Las Vegas

Tuesday, January 9th, 2007
Went to Las Vegas to spend a week with my son Greg over New Year's. Greg and I went to bed New Years Eve at 10:30...he got called in at 1:30am for an emergency...a four year old had gotten ... [Continue reading this entry]

Disconnect In Oaxaca

Thursday, December 28th, 2006
Xochitl's accounts show the disconnect between the low level of frustration, anxiety and aggression in Oaxaca, that is just below the surface, but invisible to the passerby tourists. I have heard that everything is fine and back to normal in ... [Continue reading this entry]

What’s Up With Oaxaca Now?

Thursday, December 28th, 2006
Blog Marc Lacey, The New York Times, 28.12.06 December 28 Oaxaca: Painting Over Signs of Strife to Tidy Up for the Tourists There is a new smell in the air here, competing with the aroma of mole sauce that routinely wafts through Oaxaca. It ... [Continue reading this entry]

Christmas Season

Wednesday, December 27th, 2006
The Christmas season begins with the celebration of Our Lady of Guadalupe on December 12 and continues until January 6...the Day of the Three Kings when presents are opened. The Feast of Our Lady of Guadalupe (Nuestra Señora ... [Continue reading this entry]

Village of Benito Juarez

Wednesday, December 27th, 2006
Last week Ana, Steve and their 3 year old Oscar and I drove to Tlacalula and then west on a winding road high in the Sierra del Norte to the tiny village of Benito Juarez. I parked the car near ... [Continue reading this entry]

First Christmas In Oaxaca 2006

Monday, December 18th, 2006
The Zocalo is lovely now with Christmas events every night. Both the teachers and the police are out of the Zocalo now. Last night the Canadian couple, Ana and Steve and their 3 year old son Oscar, and ... [Continue reading this entry]

Freedom Of Speech

Thursday, December 14th, 2006
December 14, 2006 More Dispatches from the War against Journalists Before he left office on December 1, Mexican president Vicente Fox lauded big strides against authoritarianism and intolerance during his 6-year administration. Besieged by murder, violence and intimidation, many Mexican journalists are ... [Continue reading this entry]

Max’s Day

Sunday, December 10th, 2006
Since I spoke to you last, I have spend one king-hell of a strange day. The morning was spent exchanging e-mails with one of the Mexican nationals who works for the sinisterly named 'Citizen's Benefits Office' at our embassy ... [Continue reading this entry]

Sights & Sounds Of Oaxaca

Sunday, December 10th, 2006
It is very quiet in Oaxaca now For some people. Others are in hiding. There are only fireworks at night. It is the Christmas season. There is a big tree with lights in the Zocalo. The pain of the people is buried under Tree bark and red ... [Continue reading this entry]

Liberty Or Safety

Thursday, December 7th, 2006
A true patriot, Benjamin Franklin, said: "they that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety."

San Andreas Huayapam Fiesta

Tuesday, December 5th, 2006
Last week, with friends, I attended the annual San Andreas Huayapam Fiesta about 25 minutes northeast of Oaxaca City. Very well organized with a lot of people for such a small pueblo. There was a local band that ... [Continue reading this entry]

Calderon Takes Oath Of Office

Friday, December 1st, 2006
It was reported on a discussion site that "Felipe Calderon took the oath of office as president of Mexico this morning in a ceremony that lasted four minutes. The house of legislators came to blows several times before he ... [Continue reading this entry]

PFP Attacks Nov 25 During Our Trip To Cajonos

Sunday, November 26th, 2006
I drove Lester and Max to San Pedro de Cajonos yesterday. Left at the intersection at Tlacalula and then an hour and a half up into the Sierra del Sud mountains. Beautiful drive. San Pedro hangs on ... [Continue reading this entry]

It’s Damn Cold In Oaxaca

Thursday, November 23rd, 2006
Well, I don't know what we did to deserve our weather...we have been freezing our asses off especially at night. I wear everything I've got to bed...houses don't have heat here. I have been turning on the oven and opening ... [Continue reading this entry]

Oaxaca Villages

Monday, November 20th, 2006
After getting back from Hierve el Agua last Sunday, I holed up in my apartment for two days. It has gotten really cold and windy. There is no heat in the apartment so I turn on the oven ... [Continue reading this entry]

Women’s Marches

Friday, November 17th, 2006
In the middle of November there were a series of Women's Marches protesting the dead and disappeared and the assault of some women by the Federal (PFP) who had been occupying the Zocalo.

Hierve El Agua

Tuesday, November 14th, 2006
Last weekend I took Mica, Bardo and the kids from Hauyapam, and Charlie, who used to be a coffee bean roaster in Oaxaca in the 70's but now is a roaster in Canada and here for a few weeks, in ... [Continue reading this entry]

Zapateca Mescal Distillery

Friday, November 10th, 2006
Yesterday, Charlie and I visited an American and his wife, Tony & Rebecca Raab, who have a beautiful bed and breakfast called Casa Raab about 20 minutes outside the city. Tony has built a hand-made authentic Zapateco mescal still. ... [Continue reading this entry]

So Goes Life In Oaxaca

Thursday, November 9th, 2006
I went to Santo Domingo yesterday to check out the activity there. The teachers and their supporters have moved their encampment up the hill to the streets in front of Santo Domingo Church where marches now end and speeches are ... [Continue reading this entry]

Oaxaca Students Battle PFP At University

Sunday, November 5th, 2006
At 8 in the morning the PFP advances upon the University of Oaxaca and begins firing at the radio and the university campus. Helicopters fly over and descend upon the radio university. At 9 in the morning 2 military convoys ... [Continue reading this entry]

Wedding Today In XoXo

Saturday, November 4th, 2006
Charly, Mica, Bardo, their kids and I went to a wedding today...a happy thing. Someone related to Mica. A professional couple. The wedding was in the very nice home of a relative...as is often the case the house ... [Continue reading this entry]

Today Zocalo & Santo Domingo

Wednesday, November 1st, 2006
This morning I took the car to the Toyota Service Agency to have the oil changed in the car...after all, I did drive it from Oregon to Oaxaca in southern Mexico...a darn long ways. This afternoon I joined my landlord ... [Continue reading this entry]

Police Take Over Zocalo

Monday, October 30th, 2006
Late in the night of October 29, the Federal Preventive Police (PFP) took over the Zocalo with tear-gas and tanks. The next morning there was an impromptu march with marchers confronting the police at every street entrance to the ... [Continue reading this entry]

Day Of The Dead, Black Mole, Hookah Pipes

Sunday, October 29th, 2006
Went to my landlord's home yesterday morning to make black mole...pronounced "molay" a Oaxacan specialty that is always made for the Day Of The Dead and served exactly at 11:00 on November 2 for the spirits of the dead who ... [Continue reading this entry]

Car Finally Retrieved

Tuesday, October 24th, 2006
The car will be ready Saturday at 11...the mechanic said. Then on Sat a call came...there has to be some modification in order to set the domestic alternator. Mechanics don't work on Sat afternoon so the car will ... [Continue reading this entry]

Late Saturday Night Out

Monday, October 23rd, 2006
Saturday afternoon, Gerardo and I went by collective taxi to Huayapam to take some cds full of Mike's pictures he had taken of the soccer game to Bardo's son Pavel. Returning to the city about 9pm we decided to stop ... [Continue reading this entry]

Wouldn’t You Know It…Car Trouble

Sunday, October 22nd, 2006
Gerardo and I were going to take Max (who in his 70's uses a cane) to the Abasco Market Friday to find tobacco economico. The car died before we got it out of the courtyard. Needs a new ... [Continue reading this entry]

Conversation In The Zocalo

Tuesday, October 17th, 2006
It is creepy odd...the dirty war at night we don't see...the bustling life of the Zocalo by day. Monday was Mike's last day in Oaxaca. Merilla & Peter, expats from Australia, Mike and Gerardo and I met for coffee at ... [Continue reading this entry]

Funeral & Friends In The Zocalo

Sunday, October 15th, 2006
After getting home from the trucha dinner Saturday night, Gerardo had called me. He had just heard on the radio that one of the APPO guards at a barricade had been shot and killed early Saturday morning. 7am this morning ... [Continue reading this entry]

Soccer & Trucha In Huayapam

Saturday, October 14th, 2006
After getting in at 3am early Saturday morning, Mike and I returned to Huayapan at 7am Saturday to take Bardo's son's soccer team to a tournament...all 12 of them...in my car. You can watch a soccer game just so ... [Continue reading this entry]

International Tourists

Thursday, October 12th, 2006
Tomorrow Thursday at 10 AM there will be a people's consulta at Santo Domingo Plaza in front of the church, which the "international tourists" will attend, carrying their cameras and wearing a hat and sunglasses." Note: I will not ... [Continue reading this entry]

Monte Alban & Huayapam

Thursday, October 12th, 2006
Yesterday morning Mike and I drove 30 minutes to Monte Alban...a gigantic Zapotec ruins on top of one of the mountains surrounding Oaxaca City...passing early morning walkers along the way. We were the sole visitors this morning in this ancient ... [Continue reading this entry]

Driving From Oregon To Oaxaca

Tuesday, September 26th, 2006
After finally getting the title and registration to the Toyota, I drove down to Klamath Falls Oregon from Salem to see my second family Bea and Sal Florez who are being well-taken care of by a couple in their home. ... [Continue reading this entry]

Getting Visa At Immigration

Monday, August 21st, 2006
Went to the zocalo at 7am...burned out car half a block from zocalo on Bustamante. Wanted to go to immigration to get my visa...waited half an hour for bus on Pino Suarez...none came so I took a taxi to immigration. ... [Continue reading this entry]

Sunday Morning In Oaxaca

Sunday, August 20th, 2006
I am cranky this morning. I was up all night because of a very noisy wedding party in the courtyard below my apartment window. So I went to my favorite food stall in the Benito Juarez market where I ... [Continue reading this entry]

Lovely Oaxacan Family

Friday, August 18th, 2006
Last night I visited a gentle sincere Oaxacan family that lives about 20 minutes in the mountains northwest of the city in San Andreas Huayapam. The couple roasts fragrant locally grown coffee and delivers it to outlets all over. I ... [Continue reading this entry]

Why Blog

Sunday, August 13th, 2006
It's a quiet Sunday morning...as Sundays are in Oaxaca...people home with their families. I often think of this blog...and other blogs...and wonder what is the value of putting so many hours into writing about the myriad details of our lives...and other ... [Continue reading this entry]

Whats To Love About Oaxaca

Saturday, August 12th, 2006
Juanita, the Mexican-American woman I met at Pachote Market, will ride down here with me in my car in September...a road trip to Las Vegas to see Greg, to Phoenix to see friends and across Texas to the border at ... [Continue reading this entry]

Long Bus Tour

Wednesday, August 9th, 2006
Took a tour of Colonial Reforma today...in the northern part of the city. Went to immigration to get my year-long visa and on the way the bus driver got into a stand-off with a car whose driver was yelling ... [Continue reading this entry]

I Could Be In India

Monday, August 7th, 2006
I was reading through some of my blog entries about India the other day and then I came upon this Slate.com article about India and laughed so hard I nearly cried. It's really good to laugh. Trying Really Hard To ... [Continue reading this entry]

Early Morning In The Zocalo

Sunday, August 6th, 2006
Vendors with hot chocolate, atole and red and green tamales stood at each end of the Zocalo at 7am...one giving free pan (sweet bread) and chocolate to two indigenous women selling the latest edition of the Noticias de Oaxaco showing ... [Continue reading this entry]

One East On Third

Saturday, August 5th, 2006
On the e-hotelier.com web site a friend found this description of son Josh's restaurant in the Hilton Hotel in Beijing where he is the Chef de Cuisine: Hilton Beijing stars as Lord of The 3rd Ring Jul 31, 06 | 1:57 am Catch ... [Continue reading this entry]

Serendipity

Friday, August 4th, 2006
When I was in China a couple years ago, I met a lovely British woman in her 30's using an internet next to me in the bar at the Camellia Hotel in Kunming. We have kept in touch while ... [Continue reading this entry]

Update on Living In Oaxaca

Wednesday, August 2nd, 2006
I have almost finished my application for a Mexican FM3 year-long visa. Forms have to be filled out exactly right...with copies...and money paid to a bank. About $200 for the visa and another $40 for them to examine ... [Continue reading this entry]