Motorbike Sir?

Good Afternoon.

I apologize for my month-long absence from posting. I know there are many of you who have been faithful followers of my misadventures. My life has changed a bit since I stopped travelling a few months ago. When I was travelling, there was always something new to report, but now, I have something like a regular life. I will make an attempt to update more frequently from now on, though I think the subject matter might change a bit.
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Every year, I hope for a legendary bash to ring in the New Year. Usually, New Years parties have never live up to their hype. At New Year’s party a few years ago, we got into a brawl at Lane’s house after consuming a serious quantity of Absinth I had brought back from the Czech Republic. That was interesting. Last year I went to Vail, CO with some friends. We found a good party, only to have it end abruptly when my friend Raj was head-butted by a Scotsman (how is your nose doing Raj?).

Being in Southeast Asia this New Years, I had to find a party with some style, so when I heard about the annual party at Bokor Mountain a few months ago, I knew I had to go. I visited Bokor a few months ago (see my entry “Sleeping with the Monks”), and was very impressed by the place – especially the abandoned French casino from the 1920s where the party was to take place. I had heard good things from past celebrations on the mountain, and so was eagerly anticipating the party.

On the Wednesday before the party, I rented a Honda Baja 250 dirt bike from a local shop for the journey. We weren’t leaving until Friday, but I wanted to drive it around for a few days to make sure it was working properly. Sure enough, the clutch was bad, so I had the shop replace it before I left.

Four of us were making the trip. Two of my housemates, Omry from Israel and Rozy from Wales were coming along, plus our friend Andrew (who happens to be from St. Paul). Our planned route would take us 140 km south to Kampot, then another 30 km on the road up the mountain – one of the worst roads in Cambodia.

We left at around 12:30 on Friday, New Years Eve. Everything was fine for the first hour or so. We had stopped for a coconut on the side of the road but when we went to leave, Andrew’s bike wouldn’t start. His bike had only an electric starter (not a kick start like Omry’s or my bike), but we were able to fire it up by pushing it and then popping the clutch. It seemed to run fine though whenever he had to start his bike, he would have to go through this same process (this would prove to be a big annoyance for Andrew, especially if he stalled out going uphill). About 20 minutes later, Andrew had more problems. His bike died and gas was leaking out of a drain hose. He called up the rental shop, they said that the “floaty-thing” (the shop owners words) was probably clogging the intake line. We jostled the bike around for a bit and sure enough, we got it running again. These two delays amounted to at least an hour lost on the road, so we set off again hoping for no more mechanical problems. The ride was great aside from the problems we had. Here is an action shot of Andrew and I. Another with us riding off into the sunset.

We arrived at the base of the mountain at around 4:30. A few pickup trucks and SUVs ferrying people were ahead of us, kicking up loads of dust. The road is made up of softball-sized stones that threw the bike around. We were still climbing as the sun set and made the rest of the climb in the dark. As we pulled up to the casino, a cold win had picked up though the scene was pretty amazing. Bonfires were spread out in the field and people were setting off fireworks, lighting up the building as if it were a lightning storm. Occasionally, a roman candle would get carried by the wind, and explode very near to someone’s car or tent. Some friends of ours hired a car, and we hung out in there for a while to escape the cold. Excitement was already brewing and it was only 6:00. I threw on my North Face Fleece (I finally got to use it after carrying it for 6 months!) and sought out some well deserved beers for my comrads

Inside the casino the organizers set up a bar and a DJ booth in front of the dance floor. I was immediately surprised at how many Cambodians were at the party. Entire families made the trip – there were even a few 5 year olds dancing in their pajamas getting busy next to some westerners. The party got going pretty good after awhile, though the Cambodians who did come up neglected to bring any girls with them. The Cambodian men set about trying to dance with any western woman who stepped on the dance floor and used techniques such as pinching asses to try and get some attention. All of the girls we were partying with seemed to be very upset with them, though after a while most of them went to bed.
As for the party, it was pretty good. The music was not the greatest and they could have used a bigger sound system, but all in all I had a great time. I think I was dancing until 4 or 5 am when I grabbed a piece of wall and passed out for a bit.

The next morning, people were still partying after the sun had already come up. It was pretty cold and I just wanted to get out of there and head for the warm beach. Once again, our bikes gave us problems. It took us at least an hour to get the bikes started because of the cold. I had to pay someone to clean my spark plug and I exhausted myself pushing Andrews bike around trying to get it started.

Once down the mountain (it was much easier driving in the daytime), we headed for Sihanoukville for some warm sun and surf. Of course we went straight to Chiva’s Shack for some of Mama’s cooking. I had a great nap in one of the hammocks and a pretty chill night partying on the beach. The next day, we headed back up to Phnom Penh. The road from Sihanoukville to the capital is new, so the ride was pretty nice, though my ass was in serious pain after 600 km of riding over 2 days.

Overall, the journey was long but well worth it. I had one of my most memorable New Years ever and I couldn’t have chosen a more incredible venue.

A massive earthquake off the coast of Sumatra sent biblical tsunamis across the Indian Ocean the day after Christmas. As of now, the death toll stands at 57,000, though this number should rise considerably over the next few weeks. Thailand was not the worst hit, but what is really disturbing to me is the pictures and video footage taken from Koh Phi Phi. I was there exactly two months ago enjoying the sun and beach, basking in the islands natural beauty. When I compared the news footage to my memory, a chill ran up my spine. I remember clearly stepping off the boat and seeing the “Welcome to Phi Phi Island” sign proudly displayed. It is now buried under the building which held it. Beaches that I had swum at are now covered in debris and boats. The longtail boat captain that I went Tuna fishing with had his boat parked right near the main dock. I can only hope for the best. I remember how close to the beach many of the businesses and bungalows were – I stayed for a few nights in a bamboo hut only a few meters above sea level.

There are also stories of people out in boats at the time of the wave. Many tourists who survived were forced to spend the night on one of the many outlying islands, sharing whatever food and water they had and tending to their injuries the best they could. As almost all of the boats were destroyed, those most injured had to be treated by local medical staff (which most certainly was not large enough to deal with the scores of injured) until helicopters and boats could reach the place. Most of the inhabited part of the island is no more than a few meters above sea level. I can only imagine the damage to be extreme to both persons and property. I know only the first names of many of the people I met while I was there. I hope they are alright, but based on what I know about the tragedy, I have to assume that many of them are injured or even dead.

Koh Phi Phi was a complete fantasy island. While I was there, it was hard to believe that such a place actually existed. It will take a while for the island to rebuild and recover.

I know a few people on Phuket, I am waiting to hear word that they are ok. I also have a friend who I met while traveling in Vietnam. He was on his way to Sri Lanka to work in a zoo for a few months. I have not heard back from him yet, though communication lines there are probably heavily damaged. I hope his is alright.

On a lighter note, Christmas celebrations in Phnom Penh were relaxed. For dinner, about 20 of us gathered at my friend’s restaurant, the Lazy Gecko, where we had a turkey dinner with all the trimmings. The meal was decent, though nothing can compare to Christmas dinner at home. There weren’t even any pies! It was a fun evening though, everyone was in a festive mood.

My English teaching job at the moment takes me out of town every week. From Monday until Thursday, I head up to Kampon Chnang, about 1 ½ hours north of here. There I teach at CMAC, the Cambodian Mine Action Center. CMAC is a large organization funded by foreign governments that goes about clearing landmines and unexploded ordinance. I teach two managers at the training center English. Most of the employees are former soldiers. When I have gone out to dinner with them, all they do is sit around and tell dirty jokes. My students also always make fun of each other in regards to their mistresses.

This week, CMAC had an end of the year party. Five kegs of the Anchor Smooth were on tap; a whole pig with some side dishes was the food. It was clear from the outset that the party was not over until the beer was finished. The senior managers were all very drunk within an hour and kept demanding the waitresses to keep filling up people’s cups. I was the only foreigner present, so I attracted anyone who wanted to practice their English skills. After everyone was sufficiently sauced, we piled in the CMAC trucks and headed off to the Karaoke bars. I have been to a few here in Asia, but this was a little more our of control. Imagine 35 – 55 year old men, completely wasted, trying to sing awful Khmer music while the others attempted to dance with the Karaoke bar girls. They managed to find a CD with some English songs on it, but it had some really bad love songs from Hong Kong that I had never heard of. Nevertheless, I gave it my best. I now know that I have no vocal talent whatsoever. Everyone was impressed (or at least acted it, or were to drunk to notice) at my skills. The next morning, my two students cancelled class because they were too hungover. I still get paid, so I don’t mind.

New years is on Friday and I have some solid plans. There is an annual party in the abandoned French casino on the top of Bokor mountain on the coast (see my entry “Sleeping with the Monks). A bunch of us are heading down on dirtbikes for the party, then I am heading over to Sihanoukville for a day on the beach. It should be a fun time.

Happy New Year.

Neil

Hello again. I thought it might be a good idea to redefine my plans and status in the far east. I am living in Phnom Penh, Cambodia teaching English. I came over to Southeast Asia on July 1, 2004 with the intention of finding a city to settle down in for a while and teach English. I thought I might travel for two or three months before starting work with my original destination as Hanoi, Vietnam (hence the former title of this blog, Good Morning Vietnam). When I arrived in Hanoi after a month and a half of travel, I did not feel quite ready stop moving, plus I still had considerable funds left in my bank account. So I decided to travel down Vietnam and through Cambodia. After spending a month in both Vietnam and Cambodia, I decided that Phnom Penh was the place for me. After I made this decision, I spent another month in Thailand for a final dose of fun in the sun. I am now in Phnom Penh with a job at Regent School of Business.

I have decided to change the title of my blog from “Good Morning Vietnam” (for obvious reasons) and rename it “Motorbike Sir?”. Those of you who have been fortunate enough to have travelled in this part of the world should be familiar with this phrase. The mere sight of a Barang (foriegner) to a local entreprenur causes dollar signs to flash inside of their head. Moto drivers are some of the most aggressive locals in pursuing foriengers. Walking no more than a block in the city, one can expect to hear the question “motorbike sir?” at least once. Though this constant barrage can get tiring (I have almost lost it a few times), I still respect their pursuit of work.

When I was in school and summer rolled around, my dad would immediatly be urging me to get out and find a job. “Hustle” was the word he used. Moto Dops are hustlers. They can provide just about any service, from selling drugs to locating appartments.

In a rapidly changing country like Cambodia, when laws are ignored, corruption is rampant, and the divide between rich and poor, powerful and weak grows ever larger, people have to hustle to make a living. Though some moto dops can be dishonest, tourist-swindling jaba addicts, most are pretty decent guys. And I respect their drive and hustle in this place of unbridled capatalism.

So my plan for now is to teach and live in the city. I don’t know how long I will stay, but I think I will eventually get back on the road. There are many places to see (my next destinations will be Burma and Indonesia) and I have never stayed in one place for very long. Going travelling again requires saving money – something I have never been good at. We’ll see.

In the meantime, if you stop by Phnom Penh give me a shout. I welcome visitors to this fair city.

Cheers,
Neil

The annual Water Festival hit Phnom Penh this past weekend. If I am living here next year, I will be sure and head down to the beach and avoid the whole scene. The festival was interesting, but the hordes of people made getting around a huge pain in the ass.
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Well it’s official, I have given up life on the road for a steady job. I had my first day of work today and it went surprisingly well. I haven’t taught English for a good 6 months (then again, I haven’t had a job for 6 months either) and was pretty nervous walking into the classroom. I even woke up in the morning having dreamt that I was teaching.

The school I am now working for, Regent School of Business, often does contract teaching jobs. I am being sent to an NGO (Non-Governmental Organization) called Concern For Cambodia to teach a seminar on writing reports. CFC is apart of an international NGO that helps rural communities worldwide find ways of using their enviroment without destroying it. I will teach six hours a day over three days to a group of Khmer workers in the NGO.

I was hired last Wednesday and given a few binders full of old course material and let loose, it was expected by my boss that I could put together the seminar. I was pretty stressed out while going through the material, lesson planning was never a strong point of mine, much less trying to plan an entire course. So far the seminar is going well – there is only so much I can hope to achieve in three days.

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The city is gearing up for the upcoming Water Festival. I am still not sure exactly what the celebration is about – something to do with thanking Mekong River for providing water for the fields. All I know is that people pour in from the provinces into Phnom Penh for three days of festivities. The highlight is supposed to be the boat races along the Tonle Sap river. This is a big holiday for Cambodians, and my students are probably not too thrilled about sitting in a classroom for six hours a day when they could be finishing up work before the holiday.

I will take some photos of the Water Festival and let you know what the excitement is all about. Until then, enjoy your Thanksgiving holiday.

Neil

A week spent at Chiva’s Shack does a body good. If you recall from my last visit to Sihanoukville, I spent a good deal of time living with Chiva and his family on the beach. They provide free accomadation for those interested – in return they always have a customer at their establishment. As I pulled into their driveway I could already hear Mama yelling from behind the bar.
“Mr. Neil come home to Mama,” she said.
“Yes Mama, I’ve come home,” I replied. In fact, Chiva’s family has become like a second family to me.

It was so nice to get back to Sihanoukville – I enjoy the town, people, and atmosphere much more than the beaches of Thailand. I am also convinced that you meet a much more interesting breed of traveller in Cambodia, someone who is not just looking for fun and sun, but someone who has a genuine interest in the country and culture of Cambodia.

So for a week my days at Chiva’s were much the same. I would wake up at around 9 or 10, go for a swim (which doubled as my morning shower) then have breakfast. One morning I taught Mama how to make French Toast. I thought I did an alright job and told her she should put it on the menu. From mid-morning until around 4 pm I would usually lay around reading or chatting with patrons of the bar. In the afternoon I would either play Sai, a SEA version of hackysack, or soccer on the beach until sunset and happy hour.

Over the nights we had a few good parties. I made a flyer for a Friday night bash called “Party with Papa”. I took a picture with Papa holding one of his famous Mekong Whiskey buckets and put it on the flyer. Guests who showed up with the flyer in hand got a free vegetable curry from Mama.

I was also giving Mama advice on how to attract more business. She happens to make some killer banana pancakes so one night when there was a table full of large guests I told mama to go over and give them a free pancake. The guests loved it and ordered a few more. Mama was happy.

If you stop by Sihanoukville, be sure to say hello to Mama for me. She has some excellent food, her daughter makes tasty Mojitos, and Chivas plays some killer music. You can stay for free, right on the beach, too.

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So now I’m in Phnom Penh, furiously handing out resumes to English schools. I traded in my backpacker outfit for some dress clothes. At the Central Market I was able to buy: two pairs of pants, three shirts, socks, and a belt for $16. Granted it is not exactly designer labels, but who cares? Its Cambodia! The teaching prospects are looking good – I just got a call from a director who wants me to teach an 18 hour seminar on writing reports next week to an NGO. The school is one of the better paying ones in town, so hopefully this gig will lead to a more permenant position within the school.

There has been a nice, cool, dry breeze blowing through town today. It almost feels like a fall day back home. Instead of the wind blowing leaves though, the wind is blowing garbage through the streets.

Life is good,

Neil

Hello,

I am now back in Phnom Penh actively searching for a job as an English Teacher. I will write an entry real soon on my escapades since my last post, but for now, check out some other blogs that you might find interesting.

My college roomate Max has a political blog: The Bergmann

My friend Andrew here in Phnom Penh has a blog dealing with life here in Cambodia: Eastern Front

My friend Jamie in San Francisco has her blog: Miss Chang

Cody Bolce, a family friend, has a sports-oriented blog: I, Cody

Nathan, a fellow midwesterner, has just started his around the world trip: Yum

In other news I bought a cell phone today. I was really enjoying life without one, but I need one for teaching so I gave-in. Send me an email if you want my number.

Enjoy,
Neil

Hello all, I am back in Bangkok after an exausting week of festivities down on Koh Phi Phi. The high tourist season has just started in SEA, meaning higher prices for everything, and loads of European tourists flooding the scene looking for fun in the sun. With all of the blond-haired and blue-eyed scandanavians roaming the beaches, I felt like I was in some twisted mix of Minnesota and Thailand.

Koh Phi Phi is one of the more dramatic places I have been to in this part of the world. Huge limestone cliffs rise up out of turquoise colored water next to white sand beaches and are surrouded by lush, tropical jungle. It is easy to see why the island is mobbed by tourists.

Though the island was beautiful, and I had a really fun time, I wouldn’t say that it has been the highlight of my trip. For me, the people you are hanging out with make or break a place. The high season tourists are more of the 2-3 week variety who just want to sit on the sand and party at night. Not that I didn’t meet plenty of interesting, nice people, I just didn’t find anything special about my time there.

I will now talk about some great times I had. One night, I met two Thai girls on vacation (from the nearby island of Phuket) who invited me to join them the next day fishing on a longtail boat. The day was a blast. Our captain piloted us around the island while trolling two lines. I don’t claim to be anything but a poor to average fisherman, so I layed back in my hammok on the boat until a fish was on the line, then I stood up and displayed some heroics in reeling in the fish. Within a few hours of trolling, we had two 18″ Tuna in a cooler waiting to be eaten. For lunch, we pulled up on a deserted island and sat back as our captian – using only a large knife – gutted the fish and made a grill out of green wood over a fire. We had no eating utensils, so after throwing a bit of salt on the fish, we sat on the beach and ate the Tuna with our fingers. It was some of the best fish I’ve ever had – just because of how simple the whole process was.

After lunch, we stopped at a few places for some great snorkling and swimming. The views below the water was almost as good as the rock formations that surrounded us. There was some great marine life – I saw plenty of Parrotfish, Angelfish, and Butterflyfish. The highlight was when we came across a school of dolphins late in the afternoon.

If you are looking for some good beach action and gorgeous scenery, Koh Phi Phi should suite you nicely. I had a great time there. Just realize that you won’t be the only person on the beach.

Sorry again about the delays in posts. I must be getting lazy. The past few weeks have been a blast. I decided to get out of Bangkok and see some more of the country, postponing my teaching plans some more.

As I mentioned earlier, I spent the last 8 days in Kantchanaburi province, a mountainous region northwest of Bangkok on the Burmese border. I was invited up to the area by Youn, the long time manager at the Shanti Lodge. We were planning on joining the owner of the Shanti Lodge, Kim, who was treating some of her workers to a vacation for a few days. Youn and I headed up to Kantchanaburi with another Shanti guest, Ken, a well known nature photographer from California. Ken and I were both sick and were looking forward to some clean air to kick our respective colds. Our destination was Mr. Hey’s farm where he has some bunglows set up. Mr Hey and his wife, Wonpen, are the parents of Nat, the cook at the Shanti lodge. Nat’s cooking at the Shanti has been some of the best Thai food I have had, though I soon found out where she got her skills from. Her mother, Wonpen is an amazing cook who dishes out delicious treat after treat of nice, healthy food. The bungalows we stayed at had no electricity or running water (water for bathing was collected into cisterns from the rain), and we fell asleep each night to a concert of various bugs.

We were joined the next day by Kim and her two hyper kids, Tai and Tia, 5 Thai construction workers (who had been working to expand the Shanti Lodge), and Pete a friend of Kim’s that happens to be the skipper of Greenpeace’s Rainbow Warrior. Pete had a seeming endless supply of crazy stories from his job of being a quasi eco-terrorist. Over the next few days, this motley crew and I toured the province, taking in most of the major sights. One of the highlights was visiting a monestary where the monks take care of tigers. They have domesticated them pretty well, and for a small fee you can get your picture taken sitting next to (and petting) unchained tigers. We also spent a night on a large resevoir in a houseboat. By the end of the week, my cold was gone and I must have put on 10 lbs. of weight from eating so much good food.

I am now down on the island of Koh Phi Phi, the location where The Beach (with Leonardo DeCaprio) was filmed. The scenery is spectacular and I promise to post some pictures soon. Sorry this entry is short, but the internet on the island is too expensive.

Neil