High on Stone Town
Day 266
Breakfast at the Florida Guesthouse is huge, like an all you can eat in the U.S. A Spanish omelette, toast and the largest plate of fruit you can imagine. Enough papaya, mango, watermelon and orange on a plate to feed 4 people, we each got a plate. Plus fresh juice and tea or coffee. Not a bad way to start the day. By 10am we are outside ready to walk around in the already searing heat of Stone Town, it must be 30 Celsius already.
I really like Stone Town, we both do. The narrow winding alleys, relaxed atmosphere and Islamic culture are very intriguing and exotic feeling. Sometimes I have to remind myself we aren’t in Morocco or somewhere else in North Africa. I’ve missed a town such as this, a place alive and full of life where the main attraction is just walking around and getting lost amongst the alleys of Stone Town.
We set out from the guesthouse looking for the market. Eventually after a few rights, lefts and unsure turns we came across the market, always an interesting place anywhere in Africa. It takes a strong stomach to walk through the meat area, essentially a slaughter house. Being vegetarians I think its against our religion to see such things, it did however reaffirm our beliefs. The fish section was easier to stomach and besides I eat fish so I’d be a hypocrite if I couldn’t handle it. Huge swordfish easily a metre long and massive red snappers lay on tables and on the ground. There is a trough built into the ground that all the blood and guts get pushed into, I shouldn’t have worn sandals today. We were told that for just over $10 we could buy an entire swordfish. People haggled over items and the whole scene was quite chaotic. Outside was the vegetable market with loads of fabulous looking vegetables.
Finding our way back to the waterfront we found the “House of Wonders”. Sounds like some cheesy Niagara Falls attraction but its actually the museum of Zanzibar that us housed in a beautiful building built by the British overlooking the clear waters of the harbour. Inside we got a rough understanding of Zanzibar’s history. The sultan, from Oman ran the island, which included nearby Pemba island as well. Since Tanzania gained independence Zanzibar has rumbled about separating or at least being granted more autonomy. The museum was a bit rough but did have some interesting pieces. However the best part may have been the outstanding views from the top floor balcony which wraps around the entire building. “If someone had the money and initiative this would be a great spot for a cafe”. I commented to Jordana. It seemed to be the story of Africa, lack of money or money and ideas put in the wrong spots.
We returned back to the room for a while before heading to Archipelago, a restaurant on the waterfront. Located on the second floor above the water Archipelago has a great view and great food. We both had fantastic fish dishes, best food we’ve had in a while and our waiter was a really friendly guy. It was refreshing, it seems like lately all the friendly folk have disappeared. We returned to the room and turned in for the night. Tomorrow we were finally off to a beach again. I looked forward to the beach but we’ve really enjoyed Stone Town, a great change from the places we’ve been in the last few weeks.
Tags: Africa, Stone Town, Tanzania, Zambia, Zanzibar
Michael Coroneos
EW slaughter house… barf – i eat meat and I dont like seeing that… guess I am a hypocrite. ps… i guess Jordana the English major didnt proof-read your post, you spelt omelette wrong!!! Sorry to point it out 🙂
miss you!!