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No Boxing Day Sales Here

Friday, December 26th, 2008

Day 270
We planned on spending 4 or 5 nights on the beach here but with the jacked up price of accommodation for the holidays we have decided to head back to Stone Town today. Bwejuu has been a relaxing few days however, a much needed break from the rigours of African overland travel.

We caught the 10am mini bus back to town and arrived in a heavy downpour just before noon. We thought we had booked the same room at Florida Guesthouse, when we arrived the housekeeper directed us to another room upstairs. No problem, this room was identical to our old one and the same price. About 15 minutes later, just as we were settled in the room we heard a knock. Jordana answers the door with the housekeeper standing there staring at the wall like a zombie. She muttered something about downstairs and walked away. We thought it either meant our old room was available or that they wanted our passport info for check-in. No more than a minute later another knock. This time its the owner. He rudely tells us we shouldn’t have this room and that we in fact don’t have any room. Huh? We thought we made a reservation. He tells us that he never confirmed and that a family has booked the room. Sure, now we figured it out, a family that he can get more money out of. So we got our stuff and left, quite angry with the fat, lazy, greedy owner. Can you tell we were a bit upset? If you are ever in Zanzibar stay away from Florida Guesthouse, sometimes referred to as Florida Hotel. We should have known better the first time we were here and he was quite pushy about tours. Maybe if I mention the name it will appear on a google searches, Florida Guesthouse Zanzibar. STAY AWAY!

Moving on, we went to Stone Town Cafe where I left Jordana and our bags while I went searching for a room. I quickly discovered this wasn’t going to be easy. It was December 26th, places were either full or have increased their rates. One hotel listed in the guidebook at $30 was charging over $70/night just during the holidays. I looked at the room, at $30 it would have been a bad deal. After some searching with frustration setting in I found the Chavda Hotel. An old restored hotel that had some character and was quite beautiful. I managed to bargain down the room to $60. Our room has a/c, BBC, a nice large bed and the biggest balcony I have ever seen. Seriously we could have opened a bar out there. At least if we were overpaying we had a good room for it.

We relaxed in our a/c room most of the day as rain fell outside, creating a very sticky, humid day. I had a few beers chilling in the fridge that we enjoyed at sunset on our balcony while listening to the call to prayer ring out across the city. As night fell we headed back to Archipelago for dinner. We scored a great seat overlooking the sea and had our best meal in Zanzibar. Prawns for Jordana and fresh snapper for myself, this is probably the best food in Stone Town with a great setting. It was a perfect ending to a great week in Zanzibar. Actually the perfect ending was the great cool sleep in our huge and comfortable 4 poster bed. In the morning its back to the heat and dirt of Dar es Salaam for one more night before heading out on Safari.

Do They Know its Christmas Time?

Thursday, December 25th, 2008

Day 269

Nope, we we know it is but it doesn’t feel like it.  Do the Zanzibarians?  Sure but do they care?  They are muslims, probably not considering they don’t celebrate it.  The rest of Africa?  Yeah they know, it doesn’t matter how poor they are.  There, does that answer the songs question?   Now that I’ve come to Africa to find out if they in fact know its Christmas time.

Right, so Christmas morning in Africa.  Sounds exotic maybe but I’d rather be home today.  We had our usual breakfast although a bit depressing this morning.  Our second consecutive Christmas away, it wasn’t supposed to be this way.  We met a couple at the guesthouse yesterday that we planned on going snorkelling with today.  We figured it would be a good way to keep our minds off not being home for Chrsitmas day.  The four of us were told to be ready for 9:30am, it was now 10:30am and we were being told only 5 more minutes.  About 5 minutes later we were being told, “No snorkel today, tomorrow you go.”  We had no idea what was going on but since we were leaving tomorrow we just decided to leave for the beach and get on with our day.

As we walked to the beach the same guy tells us that the boat guy and the snorkel gear would be here in 20 minutes, no problem just wait.  Ah Africa, we said no thanks and continued on to our usual spot on the beach.  After a few hours of beach time we walked to Paradise Beach.  One of the more attractive hotels on the beach and a restaurant that has a good reputation.  The beer was cold and the view great, we also ran into 4 Americans who were also staying at our guesthouse that we shared our lunch and drinks with.  We spent close to 3 hours in Paradise Beach before returning to the beach for the afternoon.

Just before another fantastic sunset we added our airtime on our Tanzanian SIM card so we could call home.  We called my mom, sister and grandfather first.  The connection was pretty poor, though we were able to get in Merry Christmas before it became to had to talk.  Besides the poor connection it was just too hard to talk with my mom today.  To be away for this Christmas was really difficult and all I could think of was how hard it was for my family back home.  Christmas morning for my family has always been our most enjoyable and important time together and I think it really hit me today how things would never be the same again.  I tired to focus on being home next year and looking forward to new traditions.  We had a much better connection with Jordana’s family and Jordana had a good talk with her mom and dad.  Calling home had made the day even tougher for me, usually after calling home we miss everyone but it feels good to talk to our familes and puts us in a good mood.  Tonight I just wanted to have dinner, go to bed and move on in the morning.

That’s pretty much the way the rest of the night went.  After dinner we were in bed by 10pm and all packed up to leave in the morning.  I couldn’t wait for the 26th to come.

A Zanzibar Christmas Carol

Wednesday, December 24th, 2008
Day 268 Waking up under a mosquito net in a bed wet with my sweat from the heat of the night isn't exactly the way most Christmas eve's begin.  Outside Jordana and I sat down for our big fruit and ... [Continue reading this entry]

Looks Like a White Christmas

Tuesday, December 23rd, 2008
Day 267 We left Florida Guesthouse at 8am for the hour or so trip to the east coast beach village of Bwejuu. We plan to spend the next few days here. Christmas in Zanzibar? It promises to be ... [Continue reading this entry]

High on Stone Town

Monday, December 22nd, 2008
Day 266 Breakfast at the Florida Guesthouse is huge, like an all you can eat in the U.S. A Spanish omelette, toast and the largest plate of fruit you can imagine. Enough papaya, mango, watermelon and orange on a ... [Continue reading this entry]

Exotic Zanzibar

Saturday, December 20th, 2008
Day 264 "This isn't much of a breakfast is it?" I said to Jordana as we sat in the somewhat depressing Safari Inn restaurant. Actually I don't think you could call this a restaurant, it was a concrete room ... [Continue reading this entry]