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No Boxing Day Sales Here

Friday, December 26th, 2008

Day 270
We planned on spending 4 or 5 nights on the beach here but with the jacked up price of accommodation for the holidays we have decided to head back to Stone Town today. Bwejuu has been a relaxing few days however, a much needed break from the rigours of African overland travel.

We caught the 10am mini bus back to town and arrived in a heavy downpour just before noon. We thought we had booked the same room at Florida Guesthouse, when we arrived the housekeeper directed us to another room upstairs. No problem, this room was identical to our old one and the same price. About 15 minutes later, just as we were settled in the room we heard a knock. Jordana answers the door with the housekeeper standing there staring at the wall like a zombie. She muttered something about downstairs and walked away. We thought it either meant our old room was available or that they wanted our passport info for check-in. No more than a minute later another knock. This time its the owner. He rudely tells us we shouldn’t have this room and that we in fact don’t have any room. Huh? We thought we made a reservation. He tells us that he never confirmed and that a family has booked the room. Sure, now we figured it out, a family that he can get more money out of. So we got our stuff and left, quite angry with the fat, lazy, greedy owner. Can you tell we were a bit upset? If you are ever in Zanzibar stay away from Florida Guesthouse, sometimes referred to as Florida Hotel. We should have known better the first time we were here and he was quite pushy about tours. Maybe if I mention the name it will appear on a google searches, Florida Guesthouse Zanzibar. STAY AWAY!

Moving on, we went to Stone Town Cafe where I left Jordana and our bags while I went searching for a room. I quickly discovered this wasn’t going to be easy. It was December 26th, places were either full or have increased their rates. One hotel listed in the guidebook at $30 was charging over $70/night just during the holidays. I looked at the room, at $30 it would have been a bad deal. After some searching with frustration setting in I found the Chavda Hotel. An old restored hotel that had some character and was quite beautiful. I managed to bargain down the room to $60. Our room has a/c, BBC, a nice large bed and the biggest balcony I have ever seen. Seriously we could have opened a bar out there. At least if we were overpaying we had a good room for it.

We relaxed in our a/c room most of the day as rain fell outside, creating a very sticky, humid day. I had a few beers chilling in the fridge that we enjoyed at sunset on our balcony while listening to the call to prayer ring out across the city. As night fell we headed back to Archipelago for dinner. We scored a great seat overlooking the sea and had our best meal in Zanzibar. Prawns for Jordana and fresh snapper for myself, this is probably the best food in Stone Town with a great setting. It was a perfect ending to a great week in Zanzibar. Actually the perfect ending was the great cool sleep in our huge and comfortable 4 poster bed. In the morning its back to the heat and dirt of Dar es Salaam for one more night before heading out on Safari.

High on Stone Town

Monday, December 22nd, 2008

Day 266

Breakfast at the Florida Guesthouse is huge, like an all you can eat in the U.S. A Spanish omelette, toast and the largest plate of fruit you can imagine. Enough papaya, mango, watermelon and orange on a plate to feed 4 people, we each got a plate. Plus fresh juice and tea or coffee. Not a bad way to start the day. By 10am we are outside ready to walk around in the already searing heat of Stone Town, it must be 30 Celsius already.

I really like Stone Town, we both do. The narrow winding alleys, relaxed atmosphere and Islamic culture are very intriguing and exotic feeling. Sometimes I have to remind myself we aren’t in Morocco or somewhere else in North Africa. I’ve missed a town such as this, a place alive and full of life where the main attraction is just walking around and getting lost amongst the alleys of Stone Town.

We set out from the guesthouse looking for the market. Eventually after a few rights, lefts and unsure turns we came across the market, always an interesting place anywhere in Africa. It takes a strong stomach to walk through the meat area, essentially a slaughter house. Being vegetarians I think its against our religion to see such things, it did however reaffirm our beliefs. The fish section was easier to stomach and besides I eat fish so I’d be a hypocrite if I couldn’t handle it. Huge swordfish easily a metre long and massive red snappers lay on tables and on the ground. There is a trough built into the ground that all the blood and guts get pushed into, I shouldn’t have worn sandals today. We were told that for just over $10 we could buy an entire swordfish. People haggled over items and the whole scene was quite chaotic. Outside was the vegetable market with loads of fabulous looking vegetables.

Finding our way back to the waterfront we found the “House of Wonders”. Sounds like some cheesy Niagara Falls attraction but its actually the museum of Zanzibar that us housed in a beautiful building built by the British overlooking the clear waters of the harbour. Inside we got a rough understanding of Zanzibar’s history. The sultan, from Oman ran the island, which included nearby Pemba island as well. Since Tanzania gained independence Zanzibar has rumbled about separating or at least being granted more autonomy. The museum was a bit rough but did have some interesting pieces. However the best part may have been the outstanding views from the top floor balcony which wraps around the entire building. “If someone had the money and initiative this would be a great spot for a cafe”. I commented to Jordana. It seemed to be the story of Africa, lack of money or money and ideas put in the wrong spots.
We returned back to the room for a while before heading to Archipelago, a restaurant on the waterfront. Located on the second floor above the water Archipelago has a great view and great food. We both had fantastic fish dishes, best food we’ve had in a while and our waiter was a really friendly guy. It was refreshing, it seems like lately all the friendly folk have disappeared. We returned to the room and turned in for the night. Tomorrow we were finally off to a beach again. I looked forward to the beach but we’ve really enjoyed Stone Town, a great change from the places we’ve been in the last few weeks.

Exotic Zanzibar

Saturday, December 20th, 2008
Day 264 "This isn't much of a breakfast is it?" I said to Jordana as we sat in the somewhat depressing Safari Inn restaurant. Actually I don't think you could call this a restaurant, it was a concrete room ... [Continue reading this entry]