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Wales and Penguins

Friday, October 17th, 2008

Day 203

We spent the rest of yesterday getting laundry done and organizing a tour today to Punta Tombo. Trelew is a decent city and has some history, it was a large Welsh settlement when the Welsh settled here from Wales back in 1800’s. Today besides a few interesting brick buildings not much survives from the Welsh past. Although Welsh folks in Patagonia does make for an interesting story. So the real reason we are here is Punta Tumbo, 100km south of Trelew and home to 500,000 penguins. Personally I find Penguins a bit more interesting than Welsh people.

We walked out of our small hotel room and into the bright warm sunshine of the morning. We booked a tour yesterday and they were due to pick us up from outside our hotel at 9am. Surprisingly we waited no more than 5 minutes when a van arrived and we climbed in. We were. Joined in our van by a few Argentines, and 2 older couples from Israel. Oh man, the older couples were too damn funny, and a bit annoying. Well mostly it was only the one lady who was annoying. She would continually interrupt the tour guide with questions and then would translate the rest for the other couple. All this while the guide tried to speak over her. Eventually the guide turned to using a microphone. It was an entertaining hour drive.

Punta Tombo, this is the largest colony of Magellanic penguins on the continent. 500,000 of the black and white birds. The word penguin is actually a Welsh word, Pen Gwyn or white head. We arrived at the beach and paid our exorbitant entrance fee. Argentines pay $12 pesos, us foriengers pay $35 pesos. I can to some degree understand two-trier pricing but this was is such a mark up. Jordana and I broke free of the rest of the group, this was not something I wanted to do with a loud group of tourists.

“OK, when we see one we can’t freak out”. Jordana said as we started to walk along the boardwalks. I knew though as soon as we spotted a penguin we’d be excited as a fat kid on halloween. “Look! Look! There, a penguin!” I excitedly said as we saw a chubby looking penguin lying under a bush. There were actually thousands of penguins everywhere, they were just hiding under bushes. I didn’t know what to expect here but I had the image of thousands of penguins just standing around. That’s not the case. Some are lazy, some are walking (VERY funny) and some are ummmm having sex. I couldn’t help but laugh every time we saw a penguin walking. As Jordana said, “They look like they have to go to the washroom.” Whatever it looked like it was damn funny. We walked along paths for over 1 km and there were penguins as for as the eye could see. We also saw some guanacos. Along the waters edge we saw another amusing sight as the penguins would waddle into the water. Then when in the water they were like completely different animals. Swimming so fast and so agile. If it wasn’t the end of our couple of hours here I think I could have stayed all day. Penguins are fascinating birds to watch.

We returned to Trelew that afternoon, grabbed our bags and jumped on the next bus to Puerto Madryn. Only 1 hour north it was nice to finally get on a bus in Patagonia that was under 10 hours. Puerto Madryn promised whale sightings and more of that “wow factor” that we’ve almost started to take for granted here in Patagonia.

Barren Land of Mystery

Wednesday, October 15th, 2008

Day 201

“Why then, and this is not only my particular case, does this barren land possess my mind? I find it hard to explain…but it might partly be because it enhances the horizons of imagination.”
– Charles Darwin

Our last night sharing a room with Seamus and Natasha and we couldn’t get much closer. Our 2 bunk room was about the size of a walk-in closet. Jordana and I are catching a 12pm bus to Rio Gallegos and then onwards to Trelew. The 4 of us went out for breakfast before we left Calafate.

Food, food in Argentina hasn’t been bad and certainly not the worst quality we’ve seen on the trip. It is however the most frustrating and soon enough I will devote an entire entry to it. Breakfast turned into an odd sandwich made with canned mushrooms and olives. No hot food until the kitchen opens at 1pm. We finished our “meals” and walked up the steep hill to the station. It felt quite strange to part with Seamus and Natasha but we finally did.

4 hours later we arrived yet again in Rio Gallegos, our 3rd time here. Its far from a bad place but there is nothing to see here. This time we only had 4 hours as our overnight bus to Trelew left at 8pm. Same fabulous pizza and an internet session later and we were ready to get back on the bus. It was a relaxing stop and helped break up the 24 hours of travel we were in the midst of.

The bus ride was comfortable, how can it not be? Plush leather seats and wine service. I know soon we will be missing the comfort of Argentine buses. Not much else to report. In the morning we awoke and were 1400km north of Rio Gallegos and the weather was much warmer. However the landscape was still flat Patagonian grasslands. We spotted rheas out the window, a emu like wild bird common in Patagonia.

We were on the northern fringes of Patagonia now, almost free of this treeless land. I had read that Darwin quote before we travelled here, now I really believe he had it right. Travelling these great distances across these vast plains is boring, no doubt about it. Yet its true that something about this landscape of nothingness is mysterious and keeps the mind curious. The contrasts between the grass plains and glaciers, mountains and lakes couldn’t be more spectacular. Patagonia has certainly lived up to my expectations.

Ice Age

Tuesday, October 14th, 2008
Day 200 Leaving El Chalten this morning couldn't get any easier. Since there is no bus station in town the buses leave from their offices. The easy part was the bus company we were taking also owned our hostel, ... [Continue reading this entry]

Grinch Mountain

Monday, October 13th, 2008
Day 199 Finally a day to get out into the wilds of Patagonia, granted its not a multi day trek or anything but I've been waiting to do a proper hike here and get closer to these amazing mountains. We ... [Continue reading this entry]

Beauty and the Beast

Sunday, October 12th, 2008
Day 198 El Chalten is about as touristy as a town can get. Its not a pretty place and its expensive, it is however set in a valley with some of the most amazing mountain peaks on earth looming above ... [Continue reading this entry]

Back North

Friday, October 10th, 2008
Day 196 5am in the surprising warm morning air of Ushuaia we climb on a bus for Rio Gallegos. For the last 7 month of travel our goal was to keep moving south, now we are heading back north. ... [Continue reading this entry]

Almost a Great Day for Golf

Thursday, October 9th, 2008
Day 195 Our last day in Ushuaia and the day I planned to golf. The sun was shining outside and the temperature was its warmest since we've been here. A great day for golf. The first thing that ... [Continue reading this entry]

The Martial Slide

Wednesday, October 8th, 2008
Day 194 It seems like you can do just about anything in Ushuaia and claim to have done it in the "worlds most southerly city". Golf, ski, visit the lighthouse and even drink at the worlds most southerly Irish pub. ... [Continue reading this entry]

Riding the Beaver

Tuesday, October 7th, 2008
Day 193 One of the joys of travel is the people you meet along the way. Some crazy, like Brian in Santiago and others like Sheamus and Natasha, whom it feels like we've been friends with for years. Since ... [Continue reading this entry]

A Three Hour Tour

Monday, October 6th, 2008
Day 192 I heard Jordana get up a few times during the night. At first I thought it was morning but when I realized it was still dark I figured it was the buffet food that was probably calling her ... [Continue reading this entry]