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Sunday, Lazy Day

Sunday, October 5th, 2008

Day 191

I woke up on the top bunk above Jordana in our dorm room and glanced out the top of the window. It had even snowed more over night, a beautiful dusting of snow covered Ushuaia on a quiet Sunday morning. From our room we had an incredible view over the town sloping down to the Beagle Channel. I walked to the right, at the end of the balcony and glanced back behind the hostal. What a sight, towering rocky mountains covered in snow surrounded us. It truly gave the feel of being at the end of the earths land mass.

We shared a room with Sheamus and Natasha, the two travellers we had met on the bus. After a shared breakfast at the hostal the 4 of us headed out to explore Ushuaia. It´s a pretty town wedged between the mountains and the Beagle Channel. Even if this wasn´t the so called “end of the world” I would assume it would be a tourist attraction on its own merits. Being a traveller on a Sunday in Latin America isn´t such a great thing, everything is closed. We stopped at an internet cafe to call home. Jordana, Seamus and Natasha spent some time on the internet and I watched the Chelsea/Aston Villa match while enjoying a tasty espresso. Nobody said life was tough at the end of the world.

Really not much else to write about on a lazy Sunday in Ushuaia. We spent sometime at the Museum, an ex prison. Which was an interesting collection of information on the history of Tierra del Fuego and the explorers that have passed through these parts. Also some interesting parts on Antartica, the real most southernly part of the world. After some coffee and searhing for food we decided on returning to the hostal to make lunch. For dinner we went to a Tienda Libre, the Argentine version of an all you can eat buffet. It was OK, some decent Chinese food but really it was about all you can expect from an all you can eat, quantity not quality.

So that’s it, our first very unexciting but relaxing day in Ushuaia. I’m looking forward to getting out of the city and getting into some more adventurous activity’s, although Chinese food in Argentina is quite an adventure. Stay tuned.

Ends of the Earth

Saturday, October 4th, 2008

 Day 190

I´m not sure if it was the gusting wind outside or the alarm but I was up at 6:15am and I was excited, something that only happens on Christmas morning or the morning we finally reach Tierra del Fuego, the end of the world. Jordana and I walked out into the blustery cold of Rio Gallegos and into a taxi for the bus terminal. We purchased a ticket for the first bus to Ushuaia, 8:30am. Finally we boarded the bus and then we waited and waited, apparently for passengers from another bus that was making a connection with ours. It was now nearing 10am when finally the other bus arrived. We were off, hurdling down RN3 and through the now very boring Patagonian steepe. It´s been 3 straight days of this dry treeless scenery, boring is actually an understatement. I realize Patagonia is vast and extreme, it´s loud and clear now. So mother earth can I please see a tree?

Ushuaia is just under 600km south of Rio Gallegos but the journey takes upwards of 12 hours due to the border crossings and ferry crossing. Yep border crossings, 67km south of Rio Gallegos we reached the Argentinian/Chilean border. Our bus rocked as we waited in line to go through customs. The wind was now beyond gusty, it was a full strength gale most likely hurricane strength. Passengers from the bus began to file off the bus into customs, as Jordana I walked off the bus we realized just how windy it was. I have never felt anything like this before, we couldn’t even keep a straight path. We lined up inside the warm custom building and were quickly stamped out of Argentina. Soon after boarding the bus the conductor came aboard and informed us that we would be heading back to Rio Gallegos, the ferry across the Magellan Straits was not running today or tomrrow due to high seas. I thought he was joking, didn´t he know we had some this far overland, that our goal was Tierra del Fuego. We HAD to cross the famous straights! I kept calm and talked to Jordana about what we would do if we had to return, but inside I was so frustrated. We waited close to 1 hour when the conductor returned to say we would go. Vamanos! Thats what I like to hear, I mean was Magellan or Darwin afraid of a little wave or two? A few kilometers down the road we were stamped into Chile. A woman had to be helped back to our bus by two other passengers, the wind was so strong she couldn´t walk on her own. I probably should have gotten out and helped, but damn it was cold!

We continued driving through the extreme south of Patagonia and I started to think just where exactly were we were in the world. I pictured that hard cover green atlas my parents had when I was a kid. I marked it up with routes I dreamed of travelling one day, this being the one I always dreamed of, Tierra del Fuego always seeming so far off and mysterious. Finally we reached the Magellan Straits, buses and trucks were lined up for the ferry, which was not departing. The Straits were angry, as I kinda always dreamed them to be. The wind howled as we exited the bus and walked toward a building were we would wait for conditions to improve. “Wait, we need a photo!” I shouted to Jordana. This was the Southern tip of mainland South America, from Cartegena to here we had finally travelled the length of South America, I had to touch the icy waters of the most famous straits in the world.

Ushuaia

After 2 hours it was deemed calm enough to cross. I couldn´t believe this was finally happening, 30 minutes till our goal for the trip. The bus drove on the large ferry followed by other buses and trucks. Jordana elected to stay aboard the bus as we departed. We had met Seamus and Natasha from Bristol, England on the bus. Natasha also elected to stay with Jordana on the bus but Seamus and I had to be outside. “Woulda look at the bus!” Seamus said. Wow, the bus was rocking almost as much as the boat. It was incredible, the waves were huge. We would see sea and then with the rock of the boat only sky. The crew ran around yelling for people to get down off the high bridge of the boat, one could have easily been knocked overboard. This was like nothing I have experienced or seen, well except in the perfect storm. 30 minutes later we reached the shore of Tierra del Fuego, we had made it!

Just over 2 hours later we reached customs yet again and were checked out of Chile and back into Argentina. Chilean and Argentinan passport stamps make up most of our passports now. Even though we were on Tierra del Fuego the same boring flat, brown, steepe scenery persisted. Oh, and the wind, the wind was driving me insane now. It´s been 5 days of this incredible wind. We drive through wilderness as the sun set and passed through Rio Grande, the only other main settlement on Tierra del Fuego other than Ushuaia. The temperature dropped and soon enough as the sun set the snow started to fly.  About 60km outside of Ushuaia the snow became really heavy and the road was covered, it truly felt like we were nearing the end of the world.

11:26pm Saturday, October 4th Jordana and I reached the city of Ushuaia. 12,000km from Toronto and 11,620km that we travelled overland to get here. I felt a sense of achievement that I have never felt from travel before. It was soon dashed as I raced to grab our bags from the pile of snow they were being tossed into. The snow was really heavy as Jordana, Natasha, Seamus and I searched for a taxi. I managed to flag one down and we piled in. Ahhhh heat!  We drove though the dark snow covered streets of Ushuaia to the Antartica Hostal, a funky yet cosy place. We were all ready for bed after along day of travel. Getting to the end of the earth takes a lot out of you.

Almost There

Friday, October 3rd, 2008
Day 189 The wind was so loud at times I thought the roof was going to come off. Apparently this is common weather in these parts. No matter, inside our room was warm and comfortable and we slept in ... [Continue reading this entry]

Day of the Living Dead

Thursday, October 2nd, 2008
Day 188 We left Bariloche yesterday afternoon on a 5pm overnight bus to Comodoro Rivadavia. I have to mention the service on this bus. First off we got wine with dinner, yes they have hot dinner service on buses ... [Continue reading this entry]

Scenery, Iceballs and Stout

Tuesday, September 30th, 2008
Day 186 There is actually more to do in Bariloche than mullet watch and eat chocolate. Today we were heading back to Puerto Panuelo or Llao Llao for a boat trip on Lago Huael Nuapi. After our dessert for ... [Continue reading this entry]

Mullet Fever

Monday, September 29th, 2008
Day 185 Since it took us nearly 20 hours to reach Bariloche and knowing that our next destination was at least 12 hours away we figured we would spend a few days relaxing here. So today was to be a ... [Continue reading this entry]

To the Llao Llao

Sunday, September 28th, 2008
Day 184 Woke up this morning from one of the best sleeps I have had travelling. Our hostel is just outside the centre of Bariloche and its a quiet place. Add to that the cool night time temperatures here ... [Continue reading this entry]

South to Patagonia

Friday, September 26th, 2008
Day 182 We had one more day in Mendoza, which is a pleasant city but without much to offer a tourist in the way of sights. We were on the move south to Bariloche but our bus was not to ... [Continue reading this entry]

Drinks, Drinks and more Drinks

Thursday, September 25th, 2008
Day 181 Mendoza is a lively city with wide tree lined avenues and some good restaurants. Sometimes it feels like you could be in Europe. That said the only real reason one visits Mendoza is for the wine grown ... [Continue reading this entry]

Argentina…Again

Wednesday, September 24th, 2008
Day 180 Finally the time had come to move on from Valparaiso. A place it would be very easy to get comfortable in for a few weeks or months. Maybe another time though, the pull of visiting a new ... [Continue reading this entry]