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Settled In

Adam's close shave
From the content in Lonely Planet, one day should be plenty to see Jamnagar’s three minor sights. In the six days we were in Jamnagar we saw each of these sights multiple times, but it was the normally mundane activities and hospitality of its citizens that kept us occupied.

For most people, on arrival in Jamnagar, the most notable sight is the rundown stone fort in the middle of the lake which houses an overpriced dumpy museum. Nearby is a temple that has hosted non-stop chanting since 1964. As far as we can ascertain, the English translation is: “Can’t stop chanting. Can’t stop chanting…” The city also contains a multitude of beautiful Jain and Hindu temples strewn throughout its old city.

On our arrival in Jamnagar, Adam’s hair had reached disastrous lengths, and his face was beginning to resemble a chia pet. Cara was instead mesmerized by the multitude of hole-in-the-wall barber shops each reminiscent of Sweeney Todd. 30 Rupees and an extremely sharp blade later, Adam was once again respectable and on his way to local fame as a photographer had snapped a picture of him under the knife for the evening news. This began a series of glimpses into Indian city life. We attended English class in a one room apartment surrounded by six shy giggling children sitting on the floor. We climbed a well-worn ladder to take chai with a family whom we met while walking by their doorway. We were dragged into a Hindu procession, a mob of happy people stopping every five minutes to dance ecstatically to music blaring from drums and over-stressed speakers. We drank ayurvedic pepper and lemon tea from a third generation cart owner who attempted to refuse our payment nightly.

On our last day, we were invited to the country farmhouse of the owner of our daily thali haunt, but we had a train to catch. Clearly, we should have stayed longer in Jamnagar.



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