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Big Rocks

Saturday, April 12th, 2008

View of Tikal Jungle Cara at Temple 2 - Tikal

There are three ways to sleep at Tikal, a national park almost as well known for its wildlife as its grand Mayan ruins: in a hotel room, in a tent, or in a hammock. We felt a hammock would be the most ‘authentic’ and we were right. We saw many pictures at Tikal’s museums of former archeologists and workers strung up in hammocks for the night (we suspect they didn’t have mosquito coils though). We ignored that we had never hung a hammock or spent the night in one before.

Two things to note about your first night in a hammock:
1) If it cools down at night, no matter how warm you were in the day, you will be cold. Dress appropriately.
2) Every crunch of leaf, squeak of bat, and croak of frog feels unbearably close.

Dreams not withstanding, we tossed and turned and otherwise survived the night, awaking in the dim light of early morning to enter the park before all but the most fanatical. The great pyramids were devoid of people but harbored plenty of noise courtesy of the howler monkeys and the toucans, parrots, and others whose names are lost upon us. In Maya times, only priests and kings would have felt the joy at being atop the temples, but they would have been gazing at a bustling city of people and temples for miles around instead of jungle.

While lying in our hammocks the night before, we did not feel the need to climb a temple to see the amazing starscape above us. In fact, we didn’t even want to leave our hammocks.

Chicken Bus

Wednesday, April 2nd, 2008

Supposedly the old retired American school buses that they use for public transportation are known as ‘chicken buses’ because of the large amount of live poultry that are carried by its passengers (not very common anymore). We posit that it has more to do with the way they pass other vehicles though. The source of endless discomfort, these vehicles nevertheless have faithfully borne us in between almost all of our destinations. In Nicaragua we were always busy admiring their swank interiors and in Guatemala it is the glitzy sheet metal they put on the outside. No matter where we were though, there were always great stickered slogans about. Here are our favorites, with some loose translations.

‘No pida velocidad, pida seguridad’ (don’t pray for speed, pray for safety)
We’ve never seen anyone ask these gods of Guatemala for anything but a traveller told us he asked if the brakes were good once. His response: ‘Brakes are for cowards. Get on the bus.’

‘Niños de 7 años pagan su pasaje’ (kids over 7 have to pay)
The unspoken rule here is that kids under 7 sit on their parents even if you have a single mom with three or more children. She may also take advantage of this free time to breastfeed.

‘si dios conmigo quien contra mi’ (if god is with me, none are against me)
There are any number of god/jesus slogans. We like this one best.

‘no tirar basura’ (do not throw trash)
This, as far as we can tell, is a practical joke. If we are being generous we would say that the literacy rate is low.

‘no respondemos por su objetos’ (we are not responsible for your things)
We are also not responsible for objects we tie (or don’t tie) to the roof of our bus, or objects someone else takes, or objects that may fall on your head from the rack.

Xela

Monday, March 31st, 2008
Every day in Xela we wake up a little later and drank a little more coffee. We were just going with the flow. Xela is like quicksand and people tend to stay there for months. We claim we were stuck there ... [Continue reading this entry]

Semana Santa

Sunday, March 23rd, 2008
Good Friday Night ParadeMary on Easter SundayGood Friday Parade We let Fat Tuesday come and go without ... [Continue reading this entry]

Market Days

Wednesday, March 19th, 2008
Calm Veggie Aisle in Antigua Flowers at Church in Chichicastanengo End of Day in Momostenango[Continue reading this entry]

Cliques

Thursday, March 13th, 2008
Adam at Volcan Pacaya Wine at Panza Verde During 2 1/2 months of low-budget travelling in Central America, we rarely get the opportunity to mingle with ... [Continue reading this entry]

Pase Adelante

Tuesday, March 11th, 2008
The border on foot Iglesia de La Merced Our first impressions of Guatemala were the dry volcanic landscape and the snail passing our bus uphill. Almost ... [Continue reading this entry]