Perfect Portillo
In a word Portillo Ski Resort is perfect. The resort has everything: challenging slopes, excellent instructors, a beautiful hotel and great ambiance – not at all pretentious as an upscale resort can be.
We spend a full week skiing and snowboarding at Portillo. Here is an example of my perfect day. Sleep in as late as possible – typically until 8:30am since everything seems to start an hour later in Chile than the U.S. Go to the cafeteria to fuel up on coffee and carbs. Ski lesson starts at 10:30am. The instructors are top-notch and I learn so much: pressing down on the lead ski, height change, knees apart and most important, “feel the snow”. While I take lessons, Paul skis and the kids snowboard. We have a leisurely lunch in the cafeteria which looks out on the mountain – amazing view! I spend the afternoon practicing what I learn in ski school. In enjoy skiing with my new friends, Ann and Sherry, two lovely ladies from Canada who share an intense passion for skiing.
After skiing, I go to stretch class to ease my sore muscles. Then, I take a long soak in one or both of the large Jacuzzis. This is also social hour and I meet interesting people from Chile, Argentina, Brazil, Canada and the States, mostly Californians. Apres snowboard, the kids go to the warm swimming pool, tubing, game room to play ping pong and pool, or huge living room to relax. 7pm – adventure movie time in the cinema (check out “Man vs. Eiger” – amazing short film). Finally, time for dinner back in the cafeteria. The food is hearty and plentiful.
After dinner, Quinn plays hide and go seek in the hotel with his new friends. Connor likes to see a movie at the cinema. If Paul and I can keep our eyes open, we listen to a live band, sing karaoke (Paul only listens and laughs) and even dance at the disco. We finally collapse in our 4-bunk dorm room. Somehow, I get a top bunk which makes bathroom trips at 3am quite a challenge. (BTW – the resort has nice hotel rooms with gourmet meals in the fine dining room, but we opt for the budget accommodations.)
Portillo draws top skiers and boarders from all over the world, primarily due to the steep terrain. The lift to the expert slopes is called va con viente in Spanish (go with the wind), which is basically a 5-seat poma. At the beginning of the week, this is what I wrote to a friend: “The pomas whisk skiers straight up a steep mountain. The pomas are made just for Portillo. I took one yesterday during a lesson and screamed all the way up, much to the amusement of my ski instructor and fellow students. However, I suppose that the skiing made up for the terrifying ride. You would love it! Check it out – va et vient slingshot lifts: http://www.skiportillo.com/ingles/lifts. Per the website, ‘they… are actually quite simple and fun once given a try.’ Not true!” By the end of the week, I can go up the poma without being terrified, but am still shaking by the time I reach the top. Scary, but the great skiing is well worth it.
On a few of my va con viente excursions, I share the poma with famous skiers, Daron Rahlves (a Truckee local and ambassador for Sugar Bowl, my favorite CA resort) and Chris Benchetler (a Mammoth local and ski film actor extraordinaire). They are at Portillo for an Atomic ski photo shoot and I am intrigued in their lifestyle. How cool to get paid to ski! Both guys are very friendly and gracious when I request photos. Chris designed his skis, which would look great with my crazy purple and turquoise zebra striped ski pants. The designer skis will be available via Atomic next year, but I think will be out of my price range… You can check out a video of the guys at Portillo at Daron’s website: http://daronrahlves.hookit.com/members/daronrahlves/
Besides the slopes, Portillo is reknown for the food. Paul arranges for a tour of the kitchen with the Executive Chef. He is impressed with the operation and after the tour, our family gets served a gourmet meal of abalone, ostrich and decadent desert. The next day, several people comment about how Paul will cook that night. Due to the language barrier, Paul is not sure what is expected from him, but shows up at the kitchen at 6pm sharp with his knives, ready for anything. The Chef has Paul watch and taste every course – salmon tartare on Belgium endive, rack of lamb served with on squash and potato puree with a huckleberry sauce, and chocolate mousse torte. Paul greatly enjoys the experience.
On our last night, I participate in the torch light parade with the ski instructors and a few guests. We go up the chair lift and grab torches, then I notice that the instructors are rubbing their gloves and torches with snow. I ask why and they reply so that their gloves will not catch on fire. What?!!! I quickly do the same, then light my torch and race down the mountain, trying to stay with the parade without falling on the ice. I end up being the last to arrive since I refuse to go straight down at the end of the run. I suppose that I rather preserve my body than be cool…
All in all, a fantastic and memorable week! This experience is tied with the Galapagos as the best week of the trip. If Portillo gets more snow, we will go back before returning home. Think snow!
Tags: Chile
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