Islas y Playas
We love Nicaragua so much that we do not want to leave. However, we are now only 20 miles from the Costa Rican border and would have to do some major backtracking to stay, so we decide to proceed to Coast Rica.
After Granada, we take a ferry to Isla de Ometepe, a lake island in Lago de Nicaragua with two volcanoes (interesting factoid: the largest lake island in the world). We attempt to reach a finca that Steamboat Scott tells us about, but the minivan can’t handle the bumpy dirt road and we stay in for one night in Playa Santa Domingo on the lake. The cabana is small and expensive, however the common area is lovely and the beach is good for swimming. After our morning coffee, we come back to our cabana to find Quinn riding on a horse at the neighboring finca. He negotiates a 45 minute ride for $5, and even digs into my wallet for the money. I both appreciate and unappreciated this kid’s independence…
The next day, we head to a different finca along the island’s only paved road and end up at Hotel Finca Venecia. We have large cabana right on the lake. The finca has horses and cows, and Quinn quickly befriends the ranch-hand, Santiago. One morning, he wakes up at 5:45am in order to help with the horses. At one point, all of the horses get loose through an open gate and Santiago yells at Quinn to jump on a horse and help round up the lost horses. Quinn and Santiago gallop rapidly down a dirt road and finally appear in about a half hour with all of the horses. Quinn spends all day helping at the finca and the owner offers to let him stay. It is tempting, but we take Quinn with us.
Isla de Ometepe seems to be a bit too close to nature for the rest of the family. On a simple five minute walk down the beach, Connor, Paul and I run across poisonous snakes, pigs, cows, horses, monkeys and lizards. After being attacked by a crazy monkey last year in Guatemala, I am nervous as I walk by a tree filled with about 10 monkeys. Connor does not like passing huge cows and bulls. Amazingly, Paul, the City boy, seems to be the least worried. Needless to say, we do not take that walk along the beach again.
The island is like a blast from the past: men driving horses with carts, young boys herding cows and sheep on horses without saddles, kids bathing themselves in buckets, women washing clothes in the lake. I definitely appreciate my washer and dryer at home after watching these women wash clothes by hand…
Now, we are in San Juan del Sur, a thriving beach town on the Pacific Ocean. The town is picturesque – on a crescent moon bay with anchored boats bobbing in the water. Lots of beachside restaurants with fresh fish and seafood. Also lots of hotels and residential developments – and Gringos. The beach in town is not too good for swimming so we rent ATVs to explore the northern beaches. The first, Marsella, is deserted with several luxury houses. The second, Madera, is packed with young surfers. Quinn and I swim for awhile, trying to avoid the beginner surfers, then we take the dirt road back to town. The area is booming and seems to be on its way to becoming the next Huatulco or Zihuatanejo. Regardless, I enjoy running on the beach (the first run in one month!) and dining while watching the beautiful sunset. Still a lovely place.
We cross the border tomorrow to Costa Rica. I have mixed feelings, as many people have told us that Costa Rica is “like the U.S. with a Spanish accent” and very expensive (“3 beers in Nicaragua cost the same as 1 beer in Costa Rica”). We are used to spending $50 or less for accommodations and $1.50 or less for beer (we can always measure cost based on beer). But as Connor says, “no reservations”, so if Costa Rica works for us, we’ll stay for awhile; if not, bienvenidos Panama!
Tags: Nicaragua
hwy1alltheway
Costa Rica is like taking a vacation from your travels. ‘Pura Vida!’
How cool is that?? Quinn is a cowboy!!! Love you guys! Lis & Mikey xoxox
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